Electronic corrosion protection
- Thread starter Harold97
- Start date
memnuts
Biking body breaker
I know exactly what your talking about. I have seen a system for sale a while ago but never saw it again. The idea is old. Essentially you use the voltage from getting the galvanic reaction going. Unfortunately I have heard bubkiss about the system
salty
Active member
It has been discussed. The conclusion was that it works on bridges and other structures that are grounded. But a vehicle not being grounded it will not work as advertised.
I guess you could use a static strip to ground the car and it might work.
I guess you could use a static strip to ground the car and it might work.
wascallyrabbit
New member
you might be thinking of this CounterAct Electronic Rust Protection System - Corrosion Control. and yes it does work. the real questions is do you live in environment that you need some thing like.
Thank you! I live in MA, a little north of Boston, and work near a salt marsh. I have keep cars forever, but unfortunately, tend towards cars that are cheap and fun. I do not have a garage, so my cars are ALWAYS exposed to weather, and the winter mess (with salt and sand) can last for five months.
I have a 2005 SRT-4 that I just bought last year, and experience with my other Dodge tells me that I am likely nearing the breakdown point where whatever the factory does to prevent rust.
Just to be clear...I can't stand rust!!!!! It may be inevitable, but I don't want to give up. I have read a little about this product, and not seen the best reviews. I figured that I would likely get the best answers here!
I have a 2005 SRT-4 that I just bought last year, and experience with my other Dodge tells me that I am likely nearing the breakdown point where whatever the factory does to prevent rust.
Just to be clear...I can't stand rust!!!!! It may be inevitable, but I don't want to give up. I have read a little about this product, and not seen the best reviews. I figured that I would likely get the best answers here!
The generic term for this is cathodic protection. The reaction that causes rust is similar to the chemical reaction in a battery. The rusting part is chemically like an anode on a battery. CP means you're trying to make the part to be protected look chemically like the opposite polarity - a cathode. I've heard of two forms of CP that could potentially be used on cars - sacrificial anode and impressed current.
For sacrificial anode, get a block of zinc and mount it to the surface to be protected. The zinc will corrode before the sheet metal because of it's chemical properties.
Impressed current (what the OP has mentioned) requires a strong source of DC to counteract the flow of electricity that occurs with a rust-type reaction.
Both are used on Navy ships and submarines to reduce (but not eliminate) corrosion. I don't know whether or not it is practical for a car. There's some decent info on the web if you google 'cathodic protection'.
One of the websites notes embrittlement of high strength metals will occur if CP is improperly used. Doesn't sound like a good thing for a car.
UPDATE: read this before you buy!! Electronic corrosion protection
For sacrificial anode, get a block of zinc and mount it to the surface to be protected. The zinc will corrode before the sheet metal because of it's chemical properties.
Impressed current (what the OP has mentioned) requires a strong source of DC to counteract the flow of electricity that occurs with a rust-type reaction.
Both are used on Navy ships and submarines to reduce (but not eliminate) corrosion. I don't know whether or not it is practical for a car. There's some decent info on the web if you google 'cathodic protection'.
One of the websites notes embrittlement of high strength metals will occur if CP is improperly used. Doesn't sound like a good thing for a car.
UPDATE: read this before you buy!! Electronic corrosion protection
Go to a place that does injection rust-proofing. Basically they make small holes and inject an oily substance that stops rust. It's called Krown in Canada, I don't know if they use that term in the US. There is no reason for rust and if you do the treatments every 1-2 years you'll be rust-free!
Again, thank you for the the answers! I have enough doubts about it to feel that I won't try it. I had kind of hoped that there would be several people here who could give me a definitive "yes, I've used it, and it works" sort of answer.
I am not sure that a coating is the answer, since the problems seem to start where panels are tack welded together, or at a seam, such as the bottom edge of the trunk lid. The other rust issues I've had seem to be small damage that just went bad over time. Again, they are cars over 10 years old, and were not exactly designed to last forever.
I guess there is no way to avoid it, short of moving to the Southwest...
I am not sure that a coating is the answer, since the problems seem to start where panels are tack welded together, or at a seam, such as the bottom edge of the trunk lid. The other rust issues I've had seem to be small damage that just went bad over time. Again, they are cars over 10 years old, and were not exactly designed to last forever.
I guess there is no way to avoid it, short of moving to the Southwest...
salty
Active member
A good treatment, like Krown in Canada, will flow into all cracks if done right.
That being said, you can do the treatment yourself, you might miss some spots but it will be better than without, if you are that worried.
That being said, you can do the treatment yourself, you might miss some spots but it will be better than without, if you are that worried.