Dura Gloss #601 and #105?

C

CharlesW

The Rainmaker
The Dura Gloss products I have used seemed to work quite well so this is not in any way intended to dis the line.

My question for some of you with a chemical background is:
Does #601 actually blend/mix with #105 and create an epoxy effect for the finished product?
It almost sounds like a little bit of hype, but considering how inexpensive the #601 is and how little it takes, I don't see where the DG people would profit enough to make it worthwhile for them to create the hype.
:dunno:
 
I don't have a chemical background but I did stay at a... Oh never mind that one is old already. lol

I have been wanting to order from Duragloss for a few months and was wondering the same thing. I'm not sure of the directions on the #601 but it could make sense. When you use a two part epoxy you mix them together to activate the chemical reaction to cause the bonding. If #601 is to be applied then removed before applying #105 then I don't know if I would buy the hype. However if #601 is to be applied then left for #105 to be put over or mixed with, it would seem to make sense.

I guess for $8.39 it would be worth trying. :hmmm:

Some added info... In chemistry, epoxy or polyepoxide is a thermosetting epoxide polymer that cures (polymerizes and crosslinks) when mixed with a catalyzing agent or hardener. It would make sense that the two products would crosslink to bond to the surface better.
 
I believe that the #601 preps the paint by removing
any old waxes or sealants. This product most likely
cleans the surface squeaky clean so the #105 can
bond properly. As for an epoxy type bond I can see
how this compares, by using the #601 you achieve
maximum bonding to the paint. By the way I just
received my order from duragloss today, I got the #101,
I tested it tonight and It works great,I also have the #105
which I use on my daily drivers for maximum protection,
through the N.J. winters. I use the fast clean & shine,
aqua wax, #652 pre cleaner which works fabulous for
deep cleaning and oxidation removal, by hand, I'll bet
it's even better with a pc. Also the #901 car wash is
top notch, best wash I've ever used. I have also found that for best results you should remove all other products especially waxes before applying the
#105 or #101. :bigups
 
Last edited:
This was posted awhile back by a fellow member.
apply the 601 by hand..it is a white creamy lotion....leave it on..do not wipe off..wait about 20 minutes apply either the 105 or 111 sealant(polish)..the 105 looks better...

Now if you want a liitle system that works real nice...follow this..



polish if need to..clay also before polishing

wash car....

Use Fast Clean and Shine after drying...leaves the car slick and helps spreading the PBA thin

apply PBA ..bonding agent...let sit for 10-20 minutes to haze...but leave it on ..do not buff off

if you have Aquawax..apply a quick lite spritz to your applicator you are going to use to put the sealant on with...I use a Meg's foam applicator...or the polish pal..

put the sealant on ..let haze...30 minutes ..wipe off....


NOW...if you are going to more layers...3 is nice...before doing a 2nd layer wipe down car with AW after a wash ...then apply your sealant...do this before each layer after the initial first one...

Also spritz the pad with AW again like first time..

Sorta like doing Zaino ...AW adds a gloss enhancer before sealant..plus helps spread it nice and thin....

wait at least 24 hours between coats....I did 3 in 2 weeks spread...

but doing Aw before applying sealant and spritzing pad makes a world of difference....

I give credit to this method to a buddy of mine who did it like this...his truck is AWESOME looking...a mile thick ..wet as rain...

any questions just ask....Glad to help

you will like what you see..

Al
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08-09-2006, 03:12 PM
Hope this helps.:passout:
 
Seems to make sense that you would leave it on. It could act as a type of A B epoxy thing then. But for hard proof, sorry I'm no help there. You could do a side by side with and without.

Thanks for the DC store tip.
 
Al the DG man said to put on the #601(don't buff off) wait about 20 minutes then apply either the #105 or the #111. Then wipe it off.:passout:
 
rabbi said:
Al the DG man said to put on the #601(don't buff off) wait about 20 minutes then apply either the #105 or the #111. Then wipe it off.:passout:
Click to expand...
I understand how to use it and I have used it per the instructions, but......
What was the true benefit from using the #601.
I have a tough time believing it does any cleaning since all you do is wipe it on and then apply a sealant.
Also, Dura Gloss doesn't say anything about any cleaning properties.
the Dura Gloss page said:
Duragloss PBA (Polish Bonding Agent)
Is similar to an epoxy (A&B) and bonds chemically when it comes into contact with durable polishes. Duragloss PBA will double the durability and protection of polishes when applied prior to polishing.
Click to expand...
So, since they say it reacts with a sealant to form a bond, I guess I will just have to accept that.
 
Originally Posted by the Dura Gloss page
Duragloss PBA (Polish Bonding Agent)
Is similar to an epoxy (A&B) and bonds chemically when it comes into contact with durable polishes. Duragloss PBA will double the durability and protection of polishes when applied prior to polishing.

NOTICE THE WORDING THEY SAY IT BONDS TO DURABLE POLISH.

When I first started using DG products Bill told me that I did not need to use the 601 after I had polished with M80.

I think that you only need it if you apply 105 on top of a carnuba or other company's sealant.

That would be applying it to a DURABLE polish.

If you clay and polish then I don't think you need 601. I never use it.
 
I have used #105 on top of #601 and also on top of of #501 and to be honest I didn't see any difference in looks or durability except My polishing pad was really dirty after using #501.
If the objective is to clean/prepare the surface before using #105 then I'll go with #501 and #105 combo since #601 doesn't even come close in cleaning the paint like 501 ,so I believe #601 might actually have a different purpose which is to make #105 bond better to any painted surface so for winter I use 601/105 combo and for summer 501/105.
I hope it makes sense.:D
 
Try it with 601 and without see if there is any difference. I personally have not used 601. I clean the paint with 501 and wipe off imediately then apply 111
 
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