1988 BMW 6 series.
The car was booked for a mid level correction detail but ended up taking twice and long and being a giant, massive headache.
I did a quick inspection when it was dropped off, paint was heavily swirled but the PTG readings were nothing to extreme (220-260microns) which I thought was high but not high enough to be considered a repaint. I figured the paint shouldnt be too difficult to work with as I have done 2 older BMW's prior.
Well... I couldnt have been more wrong. After closer inspection under the lights I found runs in the finish, even higher paint readings on certain panels (450+) and solvent pop everywhere. The car has be re-sprayed and the owner did not know.
More on that later, first I had to wash the damn thing.
Wheels were treated with Brake Buster on the face and the inners need Megs WB 4:1 along with some Tardis
Before
After
Most of the trim was faded and cracking...after some light agitation some dirt dripped down the car
The was hand down the HARDEST clear I have ever polished.
My initial combo to handle the swirls was M105 w/ a black TufBuf wool pad. I figured a 2 step process was sufficent initially but the first 2 passes with 105 did barely anything.
After doing a test spot on the hood with the rather agresive combo I realized I achived about 4% correction and barely a dent was made. After 2 more hits still little luck.
I sent a PM over to Billy (PresidentialDetail) inquiring about the KB method and with his pointers I gave it a shot as I had no other options.
Under the halogens...
I used the KB method (my own take on it as least) and I was able to get about 90% correction... some scratches were beyond repair and I wasnt gonna chase them.
My process:
-M105 w/ TufBuf wool pad using KB method (primed pad and water spritz's) 3-4 Hits per section 2100 - 2700rpm
-SIP w/ Orange DD cutting pad
-106FA w/ DD blue finishing pad
Before...
After...
The combo worked well on the hard paint but I had some dusting issues as you can see...
Befores...
After...
Before, dull
Aft
The trunk after the first 2 passes of M105, about 80% but it was getting there
After more M105, then the SIP in the sun
Still some rids left, not a big deal as this was not a 100% job
I pulled the car out after the IPA wipedown to check my work
Everything looked pretty good, no holograms from the wool correction:applause2:
Back in the garage for more un-funess
The passenger side panels had more serious issues, more dull than the driver side. These areas were worked at 2400+ rpm
Before...
After...
I finished up correction and re-washed the car. I hate doing it but the dust was in every crack and crevice.
After which it was dried, giving another IPA wipe and I applied DWG by the Flex DA at speed 4. I worked it in until clear and buffed off imediately.
DWG added a nice depth and slickness, I find with silver cars you gotta do whatever you can to make them look as wet as possible.
I pulled it out around 6 (not what ya think pervs)... No LSP yet, just a couple shots outside
Back inside I began the interior work which wasnt too bad and dressed all the trim and polished all the metal accents (some parts were too far rusted to bring back)
LSP of choice:
Jetseal 109 x2
Finished pics after FK425 wipedown
(Notice the trim piece on the passenger side, cracking off)
This was one of the most frustrating corrections I have worked on. The biggest issue was that I booked (and charged) for a 12hr detall and ended up spending 20hrs.
I know the owner (young man) bought the car used as a restoration project and asked if I could help him out. If I stopped at 12hrs the car would have still looked like crap. I did everything I could in the timeframe I had to make it look presentable.
He went home a happy camper and the genuine smile he made when he saw it made the extra hours go down easier but I made a promise to myself that I will do no more favors! Paint correction shouldnt be a favor, it takes too long and in the end most people never fully appreciate what you have to go through.
Thanks for looking
The car was booked for a mid level correction detail but ended up taking twice and long and being a giant, massive headache.
I did a quick inspection when it was dropped off, paint was heavily swirled but the PTG readings were nothing to extreme (220-260microns) which I thought was high but not high enough to be considered a repaint. I figured the paint shouldnt be too difficult to work with as I have done 2 older BMW's prior.
Well... I couldnt have been more wrong. After closer inspection under the lights I found runs in the finish, even higher paint readings on certain panels (450+) and solvent pop everywhere. The car has be re-sprayed and the owner did not know.
More on that later, first I had to wash the damn thing.
Wheels were treated with Brake Buster on the face and the inners need Megs WB 4:1 along with some Tardis
Before
After
Most of the trim was faded and cracking...after some light agitation some dirt dripped down the car
The was hand down the HARDEST clear I have ever polished.
My initial combo to handle the swirls was M105 w/ a black TufBuf wool pad. I figured a 2 step process was sufficent initially but the first 2 passes with 105 did barely anything.
After doing a test spot on the hood with the rather agresive combo I realized I achived about 4% correction and barely a dent was made. After 2 more hits still little luck.
I sent a PM over to Billy (PresidentialDetail) inquiring about the KB method and with his pointers I gave it a shot as I had no other options.
Under the halogens...
I used the KB method (my own take on it as least) and I was able to get about 90% correction... some scratches were beyond repair and I wasnt gonna chase them.
My process:
-M105 w/ TufBuf wool pad using KB method (primed pad and water spritz's) 3-4 Hits per section 2100 - 2700rpm
-SIP w/ Orange DD cutting pad
-106FA w/ DD blue finishing pad
Before...
After...
The combo worked well on the hard paint but I had some dusting issues as you can see...
Befores...
After...
Before, dull
Aft
The trunk after the first 2 passes of M105, about 80% but it was getting there
After more M105, then the SIP in the sun
Still some rids left, not a big deal as this was not a 100% job
I pulled the car out after the IPA wipedown to check my work
Everything looked pretty good, no holograms from the wool correction:applause2:
Back in the garage for more un-funess
The passenger side panels had more serious issues, more dull than the driver side. These areas were worked at 2400+ rpm
Before...
After...
I finished up correction and re-washed the car. I hate doing it but the dust was in every crack and crevice.
After which it was dried, giving another IPA wipe and I applied DWG by the Flex DA at speed 4. I worked it in until clear and buffed off imediately.
DWG added a nice depth and slickness, I find with silver cars you gotta do whatever you can to make them look as wet as possible.
I pulled it out around 6 (not what ya think pervs)... No LSP yet, just a couple shots outside
Back inside I began the interior work which wasnt too bad and dressed all the trim and polished all the metal accents (some parts were too far rusted to bring back)
LSP of choice:
Jetseal 109 x2
Finished pics after FK425 wipedown
(Notice the trim piece on the passenger side, cracking off)
This was one of the most frustrating corrections I have worked on. The biggest issue was that I booked (and charged) for a 12hr detall and ended up spending 20hrs.
I know the owner (young man) bought the car used as a restoration project and asked if I could help him out. If I stopped at 12hrs the car would have still looked like crap. I did everything I could in the timeframe I had to make it look presentable.
He went home a happy camper and the genuine smile he made when he saw it made the extra hours go down easier but I made a promise to myself that I will do no more favors! Paint correction shouldnt be a favor, it takes too long and in the end most people never fully appreciate what you have to go through.
Thanks for looking
