Dr Colorchip anyone?

D

dngan

New member
Hi,



Do I apply Klasse AIO using firm pressure, or, very light pressure? Would apply with firm pressure scratches the paint ? Or, Would apply with very light pressure in effective such that the AIO will not bond to the paint ?



What about SG ? firm or light pressure ?



Do I apply AIO, SG with a damp towel ?
 
I use medium pressure to apply AIO, and light to medium pressure for SG.



For AIO apply with a damp applicator

For SG a dry applicator



I prefer foam pads for both tasks.
 
AIO and a PC machine go together like peas and carrots. They were meant for each other. For the time it takes to apply AIO with the PC the results are stunning. imo that would be the best spent 1/2 hour of service that you could do to someone's average car to make it look great. Even without the SG I think you will be impressed with the results.

For the SG I like to apply it by hand with a MF applicator.

Before you apply the AIO check to see if your paint needs to be clayed. AIO is a good cleaner but it will not clean all the little specs and fallout that has imbedded in your paint. A clay bar will do this and I recommend doing that before the AIO. The prep time spent will be worth it for the final results. Click on the picture below for intructions on using a clay bar you also can do a search on clay to find more info about how it works.

<em class='bbc'>clic pics[/i]
http://store4.yimg.com/I/classic-motoring_1666_2199541 http://store4.yimg.com/I/classic-motoring_1666_4408066
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Short Cut [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>AIO is a good cleaner but it will not clean all the little specs and fallout that has imbedded in your paint[/b]</blockquote>I partially disagree. I recently detailed a silver MBenz CLK320 and found out how much light cars show anything on the surface. I agree in that clay took off the invisible contaminants making the paint rough, but it would not remove all of the tiny little tar spots on the car.

For this I tried out PPCL and then got the idea to try AIO...it worked beautifully. AIO with a bit of pressure worked wonderfully to remove the many little tar spots that were left from claying.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by puterbum [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>I partially disagree. [/b]</blockquote>
I partially agree with you disagreeing. :p I have been dealing with this very issue this past week on my white truck. I see these little specs but it is hard to determine upon initial inspection if it is a recent tar spot which I'll use a tar remover for or if it's some kinda metal flake particulate ozone fallout crud that made it past AIO on the CMA yellow foam cutting pad on the PC.. I try to find the tar spots first and use the tar remover then go after the rest of the specs with the clay. Sometimes I'll guess wrong though and try to clay a tar spot and that is messy way to clean a tar spot.

I currently have two coats of SG over the AIO on the truck but as I get time I've been claying and cleaning a panel at a time then putting a couple of coats of SG over the newly cleaned panel. I'm quite certain that I'm the only one that notices this because you have to get up really close to see any specs in the first place. Oh well I like it, hood and tailgate down the rest of truck to go.... :)
 
Has anyone tried the Dr. Colorchip system for numerous paint chip repairs? I have a customer with a black MB CLS 550 and I touched up some more obvious chips during his last detail. He still has probably 100 to 300 little tiny pin hole chips all over his hood and the Dr. Colorchip system has piqued my interest.

Again, has anyone here used it and can relay some real world experience?

Thanks for anything you can offer.
 
Puckman said:
Has anyone tried the Dr. Colorchip system for numerous paint chip repairs? I have a customer with a black MB CLS 550 and I touched up some more obvious chips during his last detail. He still has probably 100 to 300 little tiny pin hole chips all over his hood and the Dr. Colorchip system has piqued my interest.

Again, has anyone here used it and can relay some real world experience?

Thanks for anything you can offer.
Click to expand...

I used it on a black Hyundai, the color match was spot-on. I got better results using traditional layer and sand techniques on large chips. On the road rash on the front bumper using the t-shirt technique Dr. Colorchip worked well although there's a bit of a learning curve. I got much better results with a second application. The detail-oriented will still see it up close but it passes the 10 ft test. I waited a couple of weeks before polishing and it looked good. Still looked fine after about a year.

I've found the variety of small brushes included to be extremely useful for other applications.

TL
 
I used it on my old Titanium Silver 330xi and I was disappointed in the results. I tried it on spot chips, and severe road rash, and wasn't overly impressed with the tresults. I have heard however, that the Dr, Colorchip system works much better on dark colored paint.
 
I have used it on many vehicles and find it the best alternative for getting the chips to level off and look the most normal, compared to the dab and hope it dries smooth method/s

It is a 2-part repair; 1 part is the paint, and the 2nd part is a thinner version of the paint that will help level the chips and when rubbed off, leaves the surrounding paint untouched.

You have to follow the timeline they specifiy pretty darn close to be successful with this particular brand, or it may not work as intended.

I also feel it would look better on darker colors, because dark color repair may not show up to the eye as easily as light color repair/s.

Always found the color match to be perfect, the paint fresh, and the brushes they give you with the kit, an added bonus.

They now offer like 3 different kit sizes for different prices, so this may be a good thing, depending on your requirements.

Good luck !
Dan F
 
Thanks a bunch TL, Barry and Dan! Exactly what I was looking for.

This is a Swarz black benz (non metallic) and you can see the tiny multiple white dots on his nose and hood that he wants gone. He's offered to foot the bill for the kit and then pay me to apply it. If he doesn't like that he'll just have it resprayed. I think I'll try it.

As I mentioned, I did do a few "layer, wetsand and buff/polish" on some larger chips he had and they came out great. There are just too many of these tiny pits to effectively do in that manner.

Thanks again guys.
 
If he has white residue in the chips, is it wax or something?

You might want to think about getting that stuff out first, before you drop the paint in there; just a thought..

Sounds like he has the "shotgun effect" from driving the freeways in the winter, or summer if he lives in AZ..

Would also be a prime candidate for a clearbra you think? Maybe you can broker that for him and make a little extra for that service...

Up here where I live, the winter with all the crap on the roads already combined with blinding rain/snow/etc, will kill the paint of a front end of any vehicle in just one season. You think you are just getting hit with waterspray from the vehicle in front of you , but its really a combo of water and very fine sand/silt, etc...

Hope your freeways are better than ours with respect to that..

Dan F
 
Yes, good points, Dan. When I completed his exterior detail last weekend I cleaned the spots with straight iso alcohol and they remained white. Almost like it was a white plastic substrate underneath(?). I'll give it another good clean out before I apply the new paint. I used PrepSol on the spots I did touch up for him elsewhere on the car.

He bought it used and doesn't know it's former life or use but our roads are pretty debris free down here. I will offer to him your suggestion of a clear bra to avoid any future pitting. I'm also curious about the longevity of this Dr. Colorchip product although it reads like it's paint from their website.
 
Puckman,

I also wonder what a white substrate would be doing under a black painted car. In the former life, we would always use a dark primer under dark colors and a lighter color primer under light colors.

You have done all the best things to prepare the surfaces, so you will be fine.

Yes Dr ColorChip is the Factory Pack paint ,and I have seen longevity go over 2 years and still going. However, if this is on the front end, it could get knocked out again by stuff hitting the paint - just like it did to the original paint.

Good luck with this !
Dan F
 
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