Don't tell my $14 AVP buffer it can't do any corrections(02 Corolla,56k maybe)

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Subject: A never waxed or corrected 02 Corolla.



Products used: Color X applied with a $14 AVP Walmart ROB (used supplied wool pad).



Results Before:



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Getting there:



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My little monster AVP buffer in the backround







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Working on the hood









And the final product:





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Seems the ole joe blow ROB is capable with the right pads and products :waxing: !
 
Definitely a lot better, but it looks like the biggest difference was from the lack of oxidation in the after pictures. To remove those deep swirl marks, you would need something a lot more aggressive.



Excellent work on the engine, it looks brand new again.
 
I don't think anyone says that a cheap buffer can't help. I used to use one ages ago too. However you can't find real foam pads and the work is really slow.



ColorX is a great cleaner wax too. The car looks much better.
 
hahaha. thats cool. i remember i thought i was the shhh with my ryobi buffer from home depot. but i returned it and got a PC, then moved on to my vector rotary.
 
To be honest I didn't put a lot of effort into the job as it was a freebie for a relative.



Just wanted to remove some swirls and oxidation while leaving some protection behind.



I though it came out pretty good for such little effort.
 
Came out good...but just think about how much a UDM/Pc or Cyclo would do with the same amount of effort. ;)
 
BTW, I used the same lil buffer and pads to do this job on my DD:



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Here are also some shots when I experimented with a cheap rotary and Megs #9:



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JDookie said:
Definitely a lot better, but it looks like the biggest difference was from the lack of oxidation in the after pictures. To remove those deep swirl marks, you would need something a lot more aggressive.



Excellent work on the engine, it looks brand new again.
Click to expand...



Thanks :dance





I don't like to get too aggressive as I believe having as much clear as possible to be important as far as the paints longevity.



I pretty much only use Meg's #9,Nu Finish Scratch Doctor(which I like a lot)and Scratch X.



It doesn't have to be perfect :shocked
 
i don't get it. Are you trying to prove that the UDM or a rotary aren't worth the money? because thats not the case.



I'm sure those el cheapo buffers do decent work for mildly damaged paint, but its not gonna do much on hammered finishes.
 
Looks great. When the colorx wheres off, you will be back to square one, but for a quick one step, I think the results are stunning :D
 
yakky said:
I don't think anyone says that a cheap buffer can't help. I used to use one ages ago too. However you can't find real foam pads and the work is really slow.



ColorX is a great cleaner wax too. The car looks much better.
Click to expand...





I own one of these el cheapo, old school buffer that I used to use before getting my PC. After I got my PC, I took the buffer and removed the foam pad that came on the buffer (the foam pad glued to the backing plate that you slipped bonnetts over). After removing this, I was left with the plastic "backing plate", and I then put some heavy duty velcro on the backing plate. I am now able to use the same pads I use with my PC on the old buffer. The reason for this is that if someone is hanging out with me and wants to to apply a LSP to their car while I am polishing my car, they can still use the old buffer to apply a LSP.
 
Don't get me wrong, it's a totally passable job for a complete OTC detail.



And maybe it's just me, but the finish still looks a little cloudy. Take the before and after pic of the driver's side mirror. I just don't see a lot of improvement there. It was dull and swirled before and it's dull and swirled now.



And that on what I would assume to be fairly soft japanese paint.



If you're happy and more importantly your customer (in this case a family member) is happy, then that's all that matters.



The engine detail seems to have been really well done and the door shot of your daily driver is definitely pretty.
 
simracer said:
Don't get me wrong, it's a totally passable job for a complete OTC detail.



And maybe it's just me, but the finish still looks a little cloudy. Take the before and after pic of the driver's side mirror. I just don't see a lot of improvement there. It was dull and swirled before and it's dull and swirled now.

And that on what I would assume to be fairly soft japanese paint.



If you're happy and more importantly your customer (in this case a family member) is happy, then that's all that matters.



The engine detail seems to have been really well done and the door shot of your daily driver is definitely pretty.
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To be honest that shot didn't show the real story as there was a huge improvement in that area.



Yes,I could of spent hours "perfecting" the finish however doing that would be nothing more than stroking my ego.It just wasn't necessary in this case.



Customer was happy and so was I:) .
 
Good job, M54.



Goes to show what a good, but inexpensive, OTC product and good technique can do, even with surprisingly little work.





Ralliart16 said:
i don't get it. Are you trying to prove that the UDM or a rotary aren't worth the money? ....
Click to expand...
I don’t think that’s the message here at all. The point is that taking a car that’s sitting at 40% of it’s potential and transforming it to maybe 75% or 80% is a massive improvement and can often be done cheaply, without a great deal of work.



Maybe that same process wouldn’t have done much of anything noticeable on a car that was already at 80%. But what’s important is the reality of the car and “customer� at hand. In this case the car looks waaaaay better and the owner is totally happy.



Job well done.





PC.
 
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