Does Salt/Chemical Film still potent after *diluted*

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mobiledynamics

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Winter Salt/ DeIce Chemical Film // Diluted Potency

Was looking at another post where a user had applied spray/rinse sealant on a dirty car.....which got me thinking

The winter salt/chemical film that builds up on our panels, chems aside, does anyone know if the salt or chemica film in it`s current state of ~film~, will it create any exothermic reaction with liquid or has that potency all used up since it`s been diluted by the snow/melted runoff water, etc?

A wild guess on my part, but I think there is the potential that possibly the salt/chem film, reacted with the users experience on the spray/rinse sealants, possibly due to exothermic reaction, possibly accelerating the dry/cure of said sealant on dirty panel, causing unexpected problems. Be curious if anyone has observed similar behaviour...
 
mobiledynamics- I dunno about how residual salt/deicer staying potent, but I do look askance at spraying that sealant on a known-to-still-be dirty vehicle. I`m trying to not excessively knee-jerk about cutting corners, but gee..
 
I think the root cause was the OP left the product to dwell for some unspecified time....but I`d be curious to know if winter byproduct played some role into this problem. Afterall, any instructions for this type of product is said to spray/agitate one panel, and then rinse. He left it to dwell.....

Technically, this product used was a spray/rinse - but to be more accurate it`s a wash-shampoo//spray-rinse sealant product. Call it a AIO if you may.

I`m just curious if the salt/chemicals possibly played some ~exothermic~ reaction on accelerated curing that compounded the original mistake...
Granted the salts/chems when in this state, do they give off any heat ? --- Kinda like iron dissolving cleaners - aka, as the thioglycolic reacts with iron, it gives off some heat.


If ya wanna follow the thread, it`s here
Streaks from HydroFoam wash

If you`re not a registered user, you may not see all the pics.....
You will probably see the last pic
Kinda really sux for the OP.....
 
The salt in the film would still be reactive when it comes in contact with water. Most of the salt that is part of the film is deposited when the salt is dissolved in water. As the water evaporates, the salt comes out of solution and reacquires the ions that were released when the salt was originally dissolved. The process of dissolving and releasing ions, and drying and acquiring ions, can be repeated indefinitely.
 
PRND -

Let`s extrapolate this....so streaking aside being the OP`s problem, let`s preface there is a potential that there is a salt film underneath his streaks....to some degree.
As long as that LSP is sealing the salt from moisture, would you say it`s somewhat inert. Granted any surface micro/macro is still semi porus absorbent to some level.......would you say that moisture can mitigate and literally he`s got a reactive salty sandwich of paint - salt film - lsp.

Uugh. I said it in the other post but it must sux to be the op double time.
 
Looks to me like the Hydrofoam dried over the dirt. Ouch. I`ve never had a problem with Hydrofoam, but I make sure I pressure rinse the vehicles well prior to using. I would not prescribe HydroFoam for extremely dirty vehicles as I find the soap component in the mixture not very strong/lubricious.
 
If I had to sum up HydroFoam, jack of all trades, master to none....it does not clean as well as Reset (btw, which I love) and it`s durability is not like Hydr02....
 
OT, but for those participating in this thread, how would you go about attacking the problem....
I was just speaking to Corey about the longevity of said products last week, and I was advised when Hydr02 is cured, 4 months life and APC washes will not even faze it...

IMO, OP should remove it now versus letting it wear off. It is salt film afterall..... He`s got no other options but to mechanically remove it, but ultimately he`s going to marr his paint in the process as he will need to abrade the LSP and whatever he`s got locked in. Not really any options unless there is one big magical
41fgapLSAHL._SX300_.jpg
 
mobiledynamics said:
PRND -

Let`s extrapolate this....so streaking aside being the OP`s problem, let`s preface there is a potential that there is a salt film underneath his streaks....to some degree.
As long as that LSP is sealing the salt from moisture, would you say it`s somewhat inert. Granted any surface micro/macro is still semi porus absorbent to some level.......would you say that moisture can mitigate and literally he`s got a reactive salty sandwich of paint - salt film - lsp.

Uugh. I said it in the other post but it must sux to be the op double time.
Click to expand...
I don`t know if the LSP creates a completely waterproof barrier -- it doesn`t have to because it sits on top of the waterproof paint. The LSP may be hydrophobic, but that doesn`t necessarily make it impenetrable to moisture. Gore-Tex is a great example of this -- it has a membrane that is too large for water droplets to pass through, but smaller water molecules from perspiration can still penetrate.

I agree that unless the manufacturer has a product or process for removing the LSP, then the only solution for getting it off will involve mechanical force and paint marring.
 
All in all, I find that thread interesting.....just due to the nature of how spray/rinse sealants get`s into literally every nook and crannie....and IMO, how one must observe the panels like you do post polishing, clean and pristine before using said products. I dunno, maybe I`m the one overthinking it for the poor OP.

Locking in dirt is one thing.
Locking in salt brine and whatever else they throw on the road is another.

Those that have never seen snow before may not understand what a salty car feels like....pics, sometimes doesn`t describe the crunch you get, even when just opening a door handle and having all that grit film on it.
 
You ought to live in Northeast Wisconsin in the winter where ALL winter-driven vehicles wear salt-brine ermine-white, regardless of vehicle color.

What you are describing about left-behind salt residue is a good reason for a power wash and not a rinse-less wash. However, using a water-activated sealant may not be a good thing on a winter-driven vehicle where salt is used as a de-icer until it is thoroughly washed and cleaned with pressurized water, even if it is a garden hose and spray nozzle hooked up to a municipal or residential water supply at lower line pressures.
 
I like Hydrofoam but I find it works best and last longest when I use it on a clean to just dusty car. If it has a road film on it even from rain I will wash it first with one of my regular soaps then foam cannon the whole car with Hydrofoam give it a quick wash and then a good rinse and it seems to cover more even and seems to last 3 months. When I tried it on a fairly dirty car it worked but seemed a bit blotchy on coverage and only lasted 4-6 weeks.

As for the unlucky fellow who had that streaking happen, Yikes that looks really bad. I would try a few extremely heavy soap mixture washes even some ironx or other chemical APC type washes. I know Hydrofoam and Hydro2 say they are resistant to apc and other chemicals but I have used IronX on my car that had Hydro2 on it and it either masked it well or it ate it off because my beading disappeared, the water just lied flat like it hadn`t been LSP`ed in years. I would think the bond wouldnt be all that great with all that foreign contaminant in it or under it.
 
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