do I need to clay if im going to use compound? (M105)?

I

imported_bored7one4

New member
I am going to detail a black camery that has never been detailed before. My question is do i have to clay the car even if im going to be using M105 on the whole car?





also after M105 i was wondering which one is better to use. SIP or M83?





thanks
 
Yes. The clay pulls embedded contaminants out. Polish will just polish them smooth but they'll still be there.
 
but im compounding not polishing. A pro detailer told me its not needed when compounding but i just want to see if there are anyone else doing it like this.
 
bored7one4 said:
but im compounding not polishing. A pro detailer told me its not needed when compounding but i just want to see if there are anyone else doing it like this.
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1.) yes you are polishing, compounding is just a strong polish

and after 105 you will also need a finer polish to finish(as you knew from your question)



2. forget most of what that "pro detailer" told you



3.) to see if you need to clay try the baggie test

but if it has never been detailed it NEEDS clay



4.) questions like this and info about the baggie test and some great rotary guides can

be found with a simple search
 
bored7one4 said:
but im compounding not polishing. A pro detailer told me its not needed when compounding but i just want to see if there are anyone else doing it like this.
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Sounds like you've already made up your mind :laugh:



Honestly, there are many people all doing their own thing on this forum. I've hear it both ways.



Personally, I feel I get better results by claying before compounding. Claying will pull out more stubbornly embedded contaminants than compounding, which IMO typically just rides over some of the tougher stuff. I also find the compounding step goes more smoothly if I clay first, with less hop and grabbing of the pad.



Remember, many (but not all) pro detailers are mostly interested in speed, not necessarily the most optimal results. And for many customer, they're not looking for optimal results either ... just make it shiney and put some protection on the paint.



To each his own, but you'll get more optimal results by claying first. If you're looking to cut corners and not looking for the best possible outcome, the world won't end if you don't clay before compounding.
 
Just suppose for a moment that you don't clay and you have bonded contamination on your paint. After you wash and dry your car draw your fingers over the paint and feel the roughness. Now suppose you decide to go straight to polishing with your rotary. You apply some polish and hit the paint and the pad loosens up some of that grit. Now you will see bad holograms. The pad will have become contaminated with that crud and you will be moving this stuff all over your paint.



I'd never polish without claying first. Your paint will turn out much better.



It's almost like waxing without washing, IMO.
 
and as for the other part of your question (SIP or M83) I think SIP is a better choice but depending on the climate. If you're in a cold area I might go with the Meg's. Menzerna can get finicky outisde of ideal climate conditions.
 
bored7one4-Another vote for claying. While people did get by for years without clay, now that it's commonly available you might as well take advantage of it (for all the reasons previously mentioned).



As for the follow-up polish, *noting that I've never used SIP*, I sure wouldn't expect either SIP or #83 to leave what I'd consider a ready-to-wax finish. Even without a jeweling/burnishing step, I'd want something that finishes out finer, especially on somewhat softish black. Something along the lines of #80 might be a good choice.
 
I found #83 does finish up nicely, but you definitely want another finer polish to make it pop, and remove any fine holograming that may be left.
 
You MUST always clay. If you're polishing your car, or waxing it it needs to be clayed. Sometimes you just look at it, and it needs to be clayed.







John
 
JohnKleven said:
You MUST always clay.
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Bingo. I'd hate to try to finish out swirl free on a black Camry without claying. I get a vision in my head of my pad turning black from all the contaminant lifting off the paint & getting ground into the finish.
 
The bigger issue than the clay (which I'd clay before any kind of polishing), is the fact that you are going to use a ROTARY for the FIRST time ever on a BLACK vehicle.



Is it me, or does the combination of all this spell TROUBLE! I can't wait to see pics.
 
just asking 'cuz I really like the theoretical aspect of everything.... if the compound is going to remove the surface completely anyways, won't all those surface contaminants be removed at the same time?
 
nonsensez9 said:
just asking 'cuz I really like the theoretical aspect of everything.... if the compound is going to remove the surface completely anyways, won't all those surface contaminants be removed at the same time?
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Where do the contaminants go, the pad you are using, and back onto the paint in many small remnants of such an occasion(buffer trails)



Remove them with clay and buff a clean surface sounds like a better option to me:nixweiss
 
Yeah, but tose reminants of paint and contaminants are abrasive and can reek havoc on your finish while you buff. That's why you spur/clean your pad too.
 
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