I detailed my first bike last week other than my own. I was not sure what to charge for this job. I spent just under two hours and charged $50.00. I was wondering if that is about right? It was a brand new Road King. Looked like they had been out on it maybe twice. It had severall bugs but just regular road dirt other than that. I washed it. Then dried w MF and detailed the chrome w/ Mothers and used Harley leather conditioner on the saddle bags.
Did I overcharge or undercharge?
- Thread starter SteveL
- Start date
GregCavi
Pinnacle Detailing Owner
SteveL said:
I would say you did about right considering you made sure to touch everything and not overlook items. I always try to break down the pay into hours so you made about 25 an hour. for me were i am that would be just about right. In my area i dont think i could charge more though. Overall it sounds good. Got any pics?
Greg
I could not get a pic this time! They were both leaving as he handed me the payment. I was disappointed, but he said he would be callling me back next week. ( I also had the priveledge of washing his brand new toyota full size truck and bmw convertible.) This is a brand new client I got this week. He called me off of a sign I put up right outside our development. :hot
I'll be sure to get some next time!!
I'll be sure to get some next time!!
Thomas Dekany
New member
You have under charged yourself. Should have been at least $80 (for 2 hours)
Gonzo0903
Detail City Fire Rescue
tdekany said:
He has done two other vehicles for this person...sometimes it's best to give a multi car discount, especially if they keep their vehicles in good condition and are repeat customers.
Beemerboy
Just One More Coat
If you see that this guy is going to give you steady biz I would stay on the leaner side of pricing. It wil keep him coming back for more and the more that you get his cars the faster they come to clean. I had a Corvette as a steady customer and I got his car once a month sometimes twice. I charged him 60 bucks for pickup & delivery, wash / wax, inside as well.
JaredPointer
COME AT ME BRO
It depends on a lot of factors, and one of the main factors is location. $40 anhour might be a good price for some, while $30 an hour will be tops somewhere else. I would say set a price per hour you don't want to work below, and don't go below that when figuring up a price. Don't sell yourself short on money, but also don't price yourself out of the market. Gotta find that sweet spot.
DShiznitz
The Buffer Is Family
I think your price is probably on the lean side...especially on a cruiser which has ALOT of chrome and an exposed engine and wiring/frame to polish by hand.
Japanese sport bikes are generally easier, as they are mostly plastic fairings, less nooks and crannys and very little chrome.
But overall, motorcyles are nothing BUT nooks and crannys and can take just as much, if not more time to properly detail than a car.
But when it comes to motorcycle detailing, don't sell yourself short. Detailing bikes takes different skills and precautions and some knowledge about motrcycles in general. Fortunately, I have owned 13 motorcycles and can draw from my past experiences.
If you use the wrong chemical in the wrong place on a car it just looks bad...do the same on a motorcycle and you can literally get someone killed.
The next time you detail a motorcycle ensure you point out a few things to your customer to justify your price:
-Let the customer know that you are not going to coat the tire tread with slippery tire gel so he wipes out the first time he leans over for a corner. Actually, let the customer know that you will not use ANY tire shine chemicals on his tires, since centrifugal force will eventually sling it onto the tread and be Veeeeery slippery and dangerous. Does your local wash rat know that?
-Let your customer know that you will THOROUGHLY buff in any protectant used on his seat, so it's not so dangerously slippery the first time he pops the clutch and peals out from a stop light and winds up catching his scrotum on the taillight as he hangs on for dear life. Same goes for the rubber hand grips, brake and clutch levers and rubberized footpegs. They should NOT be slippery.
-Let the customer know that you are not going to blast his exposed rubber wheel bearing seals with any high pressure (even from a normal garden hose on stream) since water can get past the rubber seal and into his wheel bearings. This can cause rust, squeak-squeak and potentially wheel lockup and wipe-out. Not good.
-Let the customer know that you are not going to spray harsh degreaser all over his expensive $160 sealed o-ring chain which will dry it out, quickly wear out the o-rings and wear the chain AND the sprokets prematurely. Degrease the wheel CAREFULLY, not the chain and sprokets-they're supposed to be greasy.
-Let the customer know that you must have extensive cleaning knowledge of the many different materials found on motorcycles vs cars. Many motorcycles have various parts made from painted steel, chrome, polished aluminum, carbon fiber, titanium, plastic, ABS Plastic, fiberglass, powdercoated parts, magnesium and others. Does your local wash rat know not to spray wheel cleaner or degreaser on those nice and shiny magnesium engine covers? I doubt it.
Point these differences out to people and charge for it. They'll see the value. Because of these reasons, I wont touch any motorcyle for less than $80.
Cutting your price doesn't always keep or get a customer. Doing excellent work and giving them their money's worth will. To encourage their business, instead of cutting your price consider "throwing in" an extra or two. perhaps a free bottle of air freshner, rain-x their windshield, give them a new microfiber towel for dusting, etc, etc. Once you cut that price, you can NEVER go up again no matter how many jobs you do for them.
-craig
Japanese sport bikes are generally easier, as they are mostly plastic fairings, less nooks and crannys and very little chrome.
But overall, motorcyles are nothing BUT nooks and crannys and can take just as much, if not more time to properly detail than a car.
But when it comes to motorcycle detailing, don't sell yourself short. Detailing bikes takes different skills and precautions and some knowledge about motrcycles in general. Fortunately, I have owned 13 motorcycles and can draw from my past experiences.
If you use the wrong chemical in the wrong place on a car it just looks bad...do the same on a motorcycle and you can literally get someone killed.
The next time you detail a motorcycle ensure you point out a few things to your customer to justify your price:
-Let the customer know that you are not going to coat the tire tread with slippery tire gel so he wipes out the first time he leans over for a corner. Actually, let the customer know that you will not use ANY tire shine chemicals on his tires, since centrifugal force will eventually sling it onto the tread and be Veeeeery slippery and dangerous. Does your local wash rat know that?
-Let your customer know that you will THOROUGHLY buff in any protectant used on his seat, so it's not so dangerously slippery the first time he pops the clutch and peals out from a stop light and winds up catching his scrotum on the taillight as he hangs on for dear life. Same goes for the rubber hand grips, brake and clutch levers and rubberized footpegs. They should NOT be slippery.
-Let the customer know that you are not going to blast his exposed rubber wheel bearing seals with any high pressure (even from a normal garden hose on stream) since water can get past the rubber seal and into his wheel bearings. This can cause rust, squeak-squeak and potentially wheel lockup and wipe-out. Not good.
-Let the customer know that you are not going to spray harsh degreaser all over his expensive $160 sealed o-ring chain which will dry it out, quickly wear out the o-rings and wear the chain AND the sprokets prematurely. Degrease the wheel CAREFULLY, not the chain and sprokets-they're supposed to be greasy.
-Let the customer know that you must have extensive cleaning knowledge of the many different materials found on motorcycles vs cars. Many motorcycles have various parts made from painted steel, chrome, polished aluminum, carbon fiber, titanium, plastic, ABS Plastic, fiberglass, powdercoated parts, magnesium and others. Does your local wash rat know not to spray wheel cleaner or degreaser on those nice and shiny magnesium engine covers? I doubt it.
Point these differences out to people and charge for it. They'll see the value. Because of these reasons, I wont touch any motorcyle for less than $80.
Cutting your price doesn't always keep or get a customer. Doing excellent work and giving them their money's worth will. To encourage their business, instead of cutting your price consider "throwing in" an extra or two. perhaps a free bottle of air freshner, rain-x their windshield, give them a new microfiber towel for dusting, etc, etc. Once you cut that price, you can NEVER go up again no matter how many jobs you do for them.
-craig
AMDin93103
I like cheese.
Re: DShiznit
:bigups Hey. . . I like this guy! :cool
:bigups Hey. . . I like this guy! :cool
B
Boss_429
Guest
Re: DShiznit
A lot about pricing depends on the area you are working in. In some parts of the country you can charge $40 an hour. In other parts of the country $25 an hour is a lot of money. Find out what professional detailer (if any) charge in your area. If you are doing "professional work" you can charge accordingly.
A lot about pricing depends on the area you are working in. In some parts of the country you can charge $40 an hour. In other parts of the country $25 an hour is a lot of money. Find out what professional detailer (if any) charge in your area. If you are doing "professional work" you can charge accordingly.