detailing a brand new car...

G

glen e

Retired Geezer
Just how good is the paint quality on a new hi-line car? Assume no dealer boneheads mess it up, does the fac job usually need work?

Got a friend getting a new 2012 5 series bmw - dark red - what would you recommend that's easy for him to use - not a huge car guy...

does it need to be clayed?

I'm going to do the initial detail and then buy him what he needs for a year

I'm thinking Ill do blackfire polish and seal, then crystal seal and the polymer spray -then give him the crystal and spray

or the ultima paint prep and UPGP - and give him the UPGP...

sound like a plan?

Glen
 
I would strongly recommend claying the new vehicle. You'll likely be surprised at what you pick up. Many cars will sit around in holding areas for a while before they hit the dealerships and have collected "rail dust" and other contamination. I've also seen cars come fresh out of the factory looking like someone had been at them with steel wool! True, it's often the dealerships that screw 'em up but that's not always the case.

-J
 
I misspoke and checked with the guy - I hope it's in good shape -it's a X3 made in SC so we get it straight from the line to his hands - no time on lot. We're hoping for the best...Thanks!
 
just make sure they do not wash or detail it in any way. If you can get it with the plastic still on it then all the better.
 
embolism said:
just make sure they do not wash or detail it in any way. If you can get it with the plastic still on it then all the better.
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Exactly! Give specific instructions that the vehicle is not to be touched until the buyer is present, and then only remove what is necessary to make it safe to drive home.

Whether or not to clay is a bit of a toss up if it is really coming so quickly from the factory to the buyer. There will still likely be some contamination, but minimal. If the paint is in excellent condition, then I might forego the clay to avoid causing marring. But if the paint could use even a light polish, then clay, polish and seal.

One thing to keep in mind is whether the owner is capable of maintaining a perfect finish. I usually recommend going conservative the first time around, document the condition with photos, then after about a year, analyze it and determine whether it has remained in a condition that warrants spending the time and money for perfection. I know this is a friend, but as a common practice this has can save the customer money, save the detailers time, builds credibility and a good/honest reputation and saves clear coat for when you really have something that "needs" to be corrected. I have talked a few people out of going for perfection right away and in each case it was the right decision.
 
Nth Degree said:
Exactly! Give specific instructions that the vehicle is not to be touched until the buyer is present, and then only remove what is necessary to make it safe to drive home.

Whether or not to clay is a bit of a toss up if it is really coming so quickly from the factory to the buyer. There will still likely be some contamination, but minimal. If the paint is in excellent condition, then I might forego the clay to avoid causing marring. But if the paint could use even a light polish, then clay, polish and seal.

One thing to keep in mind is whether the owner is capable of maintaining a perfect finish. I usually recommend going conservative the first time around, document the condition with photos, then after about a year, analyze it and determine whether it has remained in a condition that warrants spending the time and money for perfection. I know this is a friend, but as a common practice this has can save the customer money, save the detailers time, builds credibility and a good/honest reputation and saves clear coat for when you really have something that "needs" to be corrected. I have talked a few people out of going for perfection right away and in each case it was the right decision.
Click to expand...

thanks - this guy is down the street so I can check as to how he's doing. Altrhough he's not a super car guy, he does take care of his things so once I show him how to WOWA a sealant like BF crystal or UPGP, I'm sure he'll do a good job.

I have the added advantage that the car is coming into a dealership where I know the upper management/Owners like family, so the word has gone out to leave it alone and deliver it with plastic still on the seats (mechanical PDI only) .
 
that'll be great to get the pristine paint finish polished and sealed so quickly. hopefully the owner will stay on top of it, since it will be much easier to do afterwards. take some before & after shots and i'm sure everyone will see what a difference the blackfire products will make even on a new car.
 
this is a company lease for him so he's not particular, but he is good about caring for his stuff. He washes his boat every sat and his cars as well. And no, nothing is for free! He gave me 100 bucks over the weekend to buy him what he needs. So I'll check the clay situation and do that for him if I have to and if needed, 205 him.. Then ultima prep him and put on the first two coats of ultima. Then probably buy him 4 oz ultima, a CG wash of some sort, aquawax, 6 MF towels, stoners tire stuff and an applicator.

I think I'll save the BF stuff for me, I can go further on his 100, get nice MF, etc if I get aquawax, CG, etc...
 
Sounds like your getting some good info from this thread. I also agree with the above, save the clear coat for when you really need to correct it.
 
The paint on most high end vehicles is as bad, if not worse, then most standard cars, IME. Out of the 100 or so new-car preps I have done on exotics and higher end cars (most than 80 grand) I have only seen two new cars come out perfect from the factory. 1 was a new Porsche Turbo (in black no less) and the other was an BMW M5, the rest have all been varying degrees of disasters.

 
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