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imported_Tony

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I have a big question. This question is almost as bad as which is better Klasse or Zaino. Which of these do you perfer?



Einszett Vs Menzerna:

Ultra paint polish Vs Power gloss

Paint polish Vs Intensive polish

Metallic polish Vs Final polish



any recommendations and /or comments?
 
Disclaimer: I'm not really qualified to reply on this thread as I have NOT used Menzerna. But I can't resist tossing in my $0.02 anyhow; I'm turning into a real proselyte for 1Z polishes :o



The 1Z polishes are just SO user-friendly that I'm sorta getting weaned away from my prior faves (various 3M products). They DO contain oils/fillers, which the Menzerna polishes DO NOT. The 1Z polishes DO really remove marring, though, they don't just cover it up. And they wipe off SO easily you just can't imagine it until you try them. For me, they've actually made polishing paint more fun (or at least less of a drag) than it had been for a LONG time.



You might weigh the above against Luster's GREAT experiences with Menzerna. It's not like you'll go wrong with either one and as with certain other products, people who like it REALLY like it. For me, just hearing people (who REALLY LIKE it) calling it "Glue-zerna" was enough to scare me away from it.
 
Oh geez, again, I'm unqualified to answer :o I haven't used DACP either!



*IMO*, the 1Z Ultra is stronger than the 3M PI-II/III fine RC's, maybe similar to their Medium/Fast Cut. So *I'D* say it's probably more aggressive than DACP. It doesn't seem to break down and leave an ALMOST-ready-to-wax finish like the 3M RC's sometimes do (and like the DACP will if you work it enough). In *MY* experience, you GOTTA follow up 1Z Ultra with a milder product. It's about as strong as *I* can imagine needing on any of *MY* cars. I might try the 1Z line with a rotary sometime if I have a tough job, though.



I DO find the 1Z Ultra removes tough marring from (hard) Audi clear better than the 3M (Fine Cut) stuff, or at least faster and easier.



*IF* DACP works well for you, I would PROBABLY say to just stick with it for the aggressive work.
 
Thanks again, I am not thinking about doing the entire vehicle with ultra. I would just use it for deeper scratches and then I could follow up with DACP or something milder. Researching the Ultra product I learned that it is consider a medium cut compound.
 
From Einszett USA:

Clay:How To Use Clay



Always clay after polishing so you don't have the clay do more work than it needs to. Because clay picks up debris as it is used, it can quickly become highly abrasive resembling the surface of sand paper. If applied on a surface that hasn't been cleaned by a polish, the clay will pick up more debris and the chances of the clay producing scratches, increases.



Before applying, make sure the surface is cool to the touch, apply Cockpit Premium on the surface to be treated making sure it is thoroughly wet. The detergents in Cockpit Premium will ensure that the surface is slick. Next, glide the clay bar over the surface -- do not press down or drag across the surface quickly. Simply allow it to glide gently over the paint. The detergents in Cockpit Premium will prevent the clay from sticking to the paint. Be sure to keep the surface wet and expose a fresh, clean side of the clay bar continuously. Repeat process until entire vehicle is completed.









Notice how they recommend claying after you polish rather than before.



I just stoled my own thread!
 
Rightlane- Well, I'm glad to see I called the Ultra about right as a "medium". I too only use it where needed.



Since you 'jacked your own thread :D ...



Their "clay after polishing" got debated here a while back. The consensus here, with which I heartily agree, was that unless you're dealing with severely oxidized single-stage paint, THEY ARE WRONG; you should clay BEFORE polishing for a number of good reasons. Among said reasons is that if you pick up a speck of previously-embedded abrasive contamination (which would have been picked up by the clay) you're looking at scratches/swirls, or AT LEAST a contaminated pad. A good analogy someone came up with: you pull out a splinter before you rub ointment on the area.
 
I've used all the 1Z polishes and really like all of them. Just 2 days ago, I removed some serious scratches from my Sister In Law's Lexus using the Ultra. Where the scratches was into the primer, I didn't remove it, but I lessened the impact. All done by hand.



I will post pics when I get my film developed.



By the way, I used the pro line with a rotary and it rocks! No fillers or silicone or wax in these and they were great!



Sam
 
Accumulator-

What if I do have heavily oxidized single stage paint? Do I polish before claying? Why would it differ compared to 2 stage?
 
Do the Einzsett products have fillers ? Particularly the Paint Polish and Metalic Polish. Reason I am asking is I have tried the Menzerna Intensive and Final Polishes and they were great .. Just expensive because I have to import into CanaDUH where I can buy 1Z up here.
 
pcar 930- With heavily oxidized s/s, you often have to remove a lot of "dead" paint to get down to the "good" paint you really want to work on (and yes, for you experts, I know there are a lot of related issues here). A quick pre-compounding, so to speak, before starting the "regular" process (clay, polish, etc.) can get you down to what it's really all about quicker. We're talking about some pretty extreme situations here, and, FWIW, *I* have always clayed FIRST, even on really crappy s/s paint.



With basecoat/clear, if you have THAT much "dead" paint (which would be clearcoat) to remove, you're probably looking at a paintjob anyhow. And clearcoats just behave differently. You really shouldn't remove more than a TINY bit of clearcoat, what is it..maybe, .3 of a mil..that's not much (consider the decimal position). Which is why I sometimes worry about the long-term effects of all the polishing some Autopians do.



Jesstzn- Yeah, they have lots of oils and some fillers. Especially the Metallic, which actually contains WAX. This hasn't caused any problems for ME, but it IS a reason why they might not be right for everyone. As SamIam mentioned, the 1Z PRO line is supposed to be free of such things, but I haven't tried those products yet.
 


Jesstzn- Yeah, they have lots of oils and some fillers. Especially the Metallic, which actually contains WAX. This hasn't caused any problems for ME, but it IS a reason why they might not be right for everyone. As SamIam mentioned, the 1Z PRO line is supposed to be free of such things, but I haven't tried those products yet. [/B]
Click to expand...




Ok thank you .. Maybe I will see if I can find the Pro line up here. I am looking to spring already and after a hard winter up here there will be swirls and I just don't need the hastle of doing the work and having the fillers leave after a few days and I have wasted my time.
 
Jesstzn- OK, but *I* don't think the 1Z polishes are so heavy on the fillers that you'll THINK you removed swirls which then just come back. About 99% of the polishing would be done with the Paint Polish, which is light on fillers, and as long as you apply a decent sealant/wax you're gonna be OK. It's NOT like the 1Z stuff actually HIDES things the same way a product like 3M IHG (or even SMR) does. Use what *YOU* feel comfortable with, but I don't want you to base your decision on incorrect premises.



I've used 1Z polishes on a few cars, and I'm CERTAIN that I was able to accurately determine whether or not the swirls were REALLY removed or not.
 
I have never use 1Z polishes but I have used Menzerna. Remember to follow instructions. Remove Menzerna without alcohol/water is a chanllenge.



:xyxthumbs
 
I've used both, and both are great. My nod goes to menzerna though. It is harder to remove but it has NO fillers and it makes the finish like glass when using intensive followed by final. I cannot say enough about the menzerna polishes, for me they work fantastic.



1Z is fantastic too, but I give menzerna the nod by a hair here.



-Tom
 
I used 1Z Ultra Polish and their Paint Polish. Both are great products and definatly remove swirls and scratches not hide them. I recently did a fender with 1Z ultra which left some hazing so i followed it with 1Z Paint Polish and it looked pretty good. I decided to try the manzerna FP on it and it seemed to bring out the paint a little more. Definatly need to use a damp MF towel to remove the FP. I say try them all. 1Z products are very easy to use and stay wet while you work with them which allows me to work a larger area.
 
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