FLG_Poncho
New member
I'm looking for some feedback on a DA purchase as well as product. There are 2 cars that I'm working on, a 2010 Subaru WRX (Dark Gray Metallic) and a 2010 Mazda3 HB (Gray Metallic). I know the Subaru clear is very soft, but I've heard that the Mazda clear is a bit harder so I'd like to make sure I'm getting the best/correct pads and products to work on both.
Just to level set I've been the only one detailing these cars from day one and have done my best to keep marring to a minimum. My, almost weekly, regime is a ONR wash followed up with Optimum Spray Wax using CG Blue monster microfiber towels. The Mazda has little to no visible scratches and the WRX has some very minor surface scratches from washing that can only be seen in direct sunlight at a specific angle. The crappy thing with the WRX is that it's in the body shop right now for repair from a break in and they're painting part of 2 doors. I have no idea how the rest of the car will look when I get it back, assuming they don't put a rotary to the whole car I'm expecting some light marring on the rest of the car from their "detailer" and holograms on the resprayed panels. Obviously these things will need to be addressed.
This is what I'm thinking about buying:
DA Polisher - Either GG or Megs, not sure which
CCS Orange Light cutting pad
CCS White Polishing Pad
CCS Gray Polishing Pad
M105
M205
Opti Coat 2.0
My specific questions:
1 - Which DA is better? I'm sure this is personal choice and I've heard good things about both.
2 - Would those pads be sufficient for both cars assuming little to no marring on the Mazda and the "Body shop touch" on the WRX?
3 - Since the Subaru clear is so soft I was hoping to use the white, maybe orange pads, with M205 as somewhat of a 1-step. If there are holograms I might have to step it up to M105. Does this sound like a good plan?
4 - For the Mazda, assuming that the clear is hard, I was thinking that I could get away with M205 and the orange pad. Good plan?
5 - If I'm doing this "1-step M205" with a light/very light cutting pad should I still go over it with a no cut polishing pad?
6 - IPA Wipe down? I'm somewhat lost as what to do between the last polish and the LSP. I've heard good and bad things about an IPA wipe down, is there anything that's better to ensure the surface is clean before applying Opti-coat?
I think that's all for now.
Thanks in advance!
Just to level set I've been the only one detailing these cars from day one and have done my best to keep marring to a minimum. My, almost weekly, regime is a ONR wash followed up with Optimum Spray Wax using CG Blue monster microfiber towels. The Mazda has little to no visible scratches and the WRX has some very minor surface scratches from washing that can only be seen in direct sunlight at a specific angle. The crappy thing with the WRX is that it's in the body shop right now for repair from a break in and they're painting part of 2 doors. I have no idea how the rest of the car will look when I get it back, assuming they don't put a rotary to the whole car I'm expecting some light marring on the rest of the car from their "detailer" and holograms on the resprayed panels. Obviously these things will need to be addressed.
This is what I'm thinking about buying:
DA Polisher - Either GG or Megs, not sure which
CCS Orange Light cutting pad
CCS White Polishing Pad
CCS Gray Polishing Pad
M105
M205
Opti Coat 2.0
My specific questions:
1 - Which DA is better? I'm sure this is personal choice and I've heard good things about both.
2 - Would those pads be sufficient for both cars assuming little to no marring on the Mazda and the "Body shop touch" on the WRX?
3 - Since the Subaru clear is so soft I was hoping to use the white, maybe orange pads, with M205 as somewhat of a 1-step. If there are holograms I might have to step it up to M105. Does this sound like a good plan?
4 - For the Mazda, assuming that the clear is hard, I was thinking that I could get away with M205 and the orange pad. Good plan?
5 - If I'm doing this "1-step M205" with a light/very light cutting pad should I still go over it with a no cut polishing pad?
6 - IPA Wipe down? I'm somewhat lost as what to do between the last polish and the LSP. I've heard good and bad things about an IPA wipe down, is there anything that's better to ensure the surface is clean before applying Opti-coat?
I think that's all for now.
