DA product questions - Car Specific

FLG_Poncho

New member
I'm looking for some feedback on a DA purchase as well as product. There are 2 cars that I'm working on, a 2010 Subaru WRX (Dark Gray Metallic) and a 2010 Mazda3 HB (Gray Metallic). I know the Subaru clear is very soft, but I've heard that the Mazda clear is a bit harder so I'd like to make sure I'm getting the best/correct pads and products to work on both.



Just to level set I've been the only one detailing these cars from day one and have done my best to keep marring to a minimum. My, almost weekly, regime is a ONR wash followed up with Optimum Spray Wax using CG Blue monster microfiber towels. The Mazda has little to no visible scratches and the WRX has some very minor surface scratches from washing that can only be seen in direct sunlight at a specific angle. The crappy thing with the WRX is that it's in the body shop right now for repair from a break in and they're painting part of 2 doors. I have no idea how the rest of the car will look when I get it back, assuming they don't put a rotary to the whole car I'm expecting some light marring on the rest of the car from their "detailer" and holograms on the resprayed panels. Obviously these things will need to be addressed.



This is what I'm thinking about buying:



DA Polisher - Either GG or Megs, not sure which

CCS Orange Light cutting pad

CCS White Polishing Pad

CCS Gray Polishing Pad

M105

M205

Opti Coat 2.0



My specific questions:



1 - Which DA is better? I'm sure this is personal choice and I've heard good things about both.

2 - Would those pads be sufficient for both cars assuming little to no marring on the Mazda and the "Body shop touch" on the WRX?

3 - Since the Subaru clear is so soft I was hoping to use the white, maybe orange pads, with M205 as somewhat of a 1-step. If there are holograms I might have to step it up to M105. Does this sound like a good plan?

4 - For the Mazda, assuming that the clear is hard, I was thinking that I could get away with M205 and the orange pad. Good plan?

5 - If I'm doing this "1-step M205" with a light/very light cutting pad should I still go over it with a no cut polishing pad?

6 - IPA Wipe down? I'm somewhat lost as what to do between the last polish and the LSP. I've heard good and bad things about an IPA wipe down, is there anything that's better to ensure the surface is clean before applying Opti-coat?





I think that's all for now. :) Thanks in advance!
 
Go with the GG 6" extended cord.

Instead of CCS, go with the flat pads they make

M205 is your choice for a one step out of the two, although hydrotech pads are better for this

M105 would be for more cut so should work fine, again, hydrotech would be a better option from LC

M105 doesn't do too well as a one step, it's too abrasive, at least with regular pads. Try hydrotech for a better finish, but still will need M205 most likely

IPA wipedown is to clear the oils from the paint that fill swirls so you can see where you need to re-polish. To just clean paint to make ready for LSP, use a quick detailer
 
Thanks for the feedback. I was confusing M105 and M205, I meant M205 for use as a 1-step hoping that it would remove the light marring and hopefully polish at the same time to an acceptable level.



Good to know about the pads... I'll look into that.
 
FLG_Poncho said:
This is what I'm thinking about buying:



DA Polisher - Either GG or Megs, not sure which

CCS Orange Light cutting pad

CCS White Polishing Pad

CCS Gray Polishing Pad

M105

M205

Opti Coat 2.0



My specific questions:



1 - Which DA is better? I'm sure this is personal choice and I've heard good things about both.

2 - Would those pads be sufficient for both cars assuming little to no marring on the Mazda and the "Body shop touch" on the WRX?

3 - Since the Subaru clear is so soft I was hoping to use the white, maybe orange pads, with M205 as somewhat of a 1-step. If there are holograms I might have to step it up to M105. Does this sound like a good plan?

4 - For the Mazda, assuming that the clear is hard, I was thinking that I could get away with M205 and the orange pad. Good plan?

5 - If I'm doing this "1-step M205" with a light/very light cutting pad should I still go over it with a no cut polishing pad?

6 - IPA Wipe down? I'm somewhat lost as what to do between the last polish and the LSP. I've heard good and bad things about an IPA wipe down, is there anything that's better to ensure the surface is clean before applying Opti-coat?





I think that's all for now. :) Thanks in advance!



People who have worked on similar cars will perhaps make more helpful comments.



I have not worked on a Subaru. I have worked on a (very neglected) 2009 Mazda 2.

I haven't got any of the 2 DA's, as I use a Flex3401.



coming to your points

1) I cannot help as I have no personal knowledge.



2) I have the exact same pads, but used with Menz polishes. I may be mistaken on this but from my general reading none of them can compliment M105 in terms of cut if for any reason you wanted to get agressive.



3&4) I will let others comment more. In theory again the 1-way M205 with orange/white should be enough for light swirls on soft clear. Regarding M105 I have expressed my concerns in point 2 above. Test spots with full cleaning to inspect correction will be critical.



5) Most probably you could get away LSP ready with no further steps.



6a) useful info on IPA and alternatives below. I think asking Optimum directly is a good idea as suggested in the last link.

Ask-A-Pro: The Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) Wipedown – Detailed Image

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/136662-post-polishing-wipedown-alternatives-ipa.html

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/135576-opti-coat-prep-questions.html



A final comment. Since after the WRX repaint the clear will be different (for example it could be a lot harder) your current selection (of pads mainly) may leave you lacking in cut. I would add a yellow or purple foam wool if you stick with LC. Megs MF system could be another option. By kitting up in advance you can save time and cost later on.
 
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