I was polishing my car the other day, but while I was polishing I noticed that there was some white power that was coming from the polisher while I was polishing the car. I was doing a 1 step polish because the car didn't need to be compounded. But after I was done most of the car was covered with a white powder that was not on the car before the polishing. Could I be prepping the pad wrong or adding to much or to little compound? I used Meguiars clear coat safe liquid polishing compound and AMMO jewelers polish I changed it up near the end because of the white dust.
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DA polishing help
- Thread starter smither
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
fangster- Welcome to Autopia!
I trust you used different pads for the two products, right? Or at least cleaned the pad out thoroughly before starting with the second one...if not, that would be a good idea for the future.
How often did you clean the pad(s) out? Old/dried/used-up product and cut-off clear can build up quickly, and that's probably the source of the white dust. Some of us (myself included) are downright fanatical about cleaning pads, doing it several times per panel. Old product, and cut-off paint, can really mess with things, compromising your results as well as producing that bothersome dust.
Even with frequent cleaning, I use a lot of pads every time I do correction. Trying to do a whole vehicle with just one pad is an exercise in frustration IMO.
When reusing a pad, if you didn't get *all* of the stuff from the last session out, it'll also produce that white dust. So clean your pads out *VERY* thoroughly at the end of each job.
I trust you used different pads for the two products, right? Or at least cleaned the pad out thoroughly before starting with the second one...if not, that would be a good idea for the future.
How often did you clean the pad(s) out? Old/dried/used-up product and cut-off clear can build up quickly, and that's probably the source of the white dust. Some of us (myself included) are downright fanatical about cleaning pads, doing it several times per panel. Old product, and cut-off paint, can really mess with things, compromising your results as well as producing that bothersome dust.
Even with frequent cleaning, I use a lot of pads every time I do correction. Trying to do a whole vehicle with just one pad is an exercise in frustration IMO.
When reusing a pad, if you didn't get *all* of the stuff from the last session out, it'll also produce that white dust. So clean your pads out *VERY* thoroughly at the end of each job.
Well I first noticed the white when I first started using the pads. The pads I use are brand new so I was thinking maybe wrong technique and to much product. How would you recommend me to clean out the pad after each panel? Use microfiber towel to rub it out, let it run to throw compound out, etc? I also think that sometimes I add to much or to little product so I'm not sure how much to add and by priming a new pad I just spray it with 2-3 shots of AMMO sprits spray wax and then add a circle on out side. Then during polishing I add around 3-5 pea to dime size dots. Also how do I know when its ready to be removed or if I need to continue to break down the polishing abrasives? Thank You for answering.
Accumulator
Well-known member
fangster- Just saw this before logging off...see if this info helps any-
-generally, most people use *WAY* too much product. Sounds to me like you're doing that. Note that some products basically never dust unless you use too much. Try using just enough product to "lubricate" the pad so it's not like running a dry pad across the panel. Like...use very little and add a tiny bit more if you think it's really necessary. Note that too much product also makes for less correction; there's no upside to using too much so err on the side of maybe too little.
-how much to use, and how long to work it, will depend on the product, and I haven't used any of the stuff you mentioned. But generally you: a) prime the pad with some product (I do not advocate using something like the spray wax), maybe use those 3-5 pea-sized drops, B) work an area until the product is almost drying out and buff off what's on the area being worked, c) clean the pad (see below), d) add a *little* more product, not as much as you did when priming.
-there shouldn't be so much product in/on the pad that it can get "thrown out" or splatter around, or anything like that.
-some products do *not* break down, they just dry out. Meguiar's makes a scad of different polishes, but I wouldn't be surprised if the one you have is like this (no breaking down of the abrasives). Products that don't break down are nice as you can stop anytime withour worrying about the size/cut/aggressiveness of the stuff you're buffing off.
-works small areas at a time; I don't even like to do the commonly-recommended 2' x 2' size. Smaller areas are easier for me to manage without anything going haywire.
-I clean the pad a *LOT* more often than "every panel", IMO you basically can't overdo the cleaning but/and most people wait way too long.
-I like to clean my pads with compressed air, but if you don't have that then yeah the "wipe with towel" can work pretty well. Sooner or later (usually a lot sooner than people expect) the pad just gets too saturated for this kind of on-the-fly cleaning and you'll have to wash it out. Just switching to a new pad is sooo much easier (clean 'em all out thoroughly with Dawn or all purpose cleaner ("APC") when you're done.
Other stuff:
-what machine are you using?
-what speed are you running it at (proper speed depends on many factors, but I generally run my polishers at/near top speed)?
-what size pads? The common 6-6.5" ones are often (usually?) too big to work effectively IME.
This might all sound complicated and confusing, but with some experience you'll get dialed-in and then it gets a *lot* easier, and more intuitive. The whole thing is a bit more involved than one might initially think, but it's something you'll get the hang of after a little while.
-generally, most people use *WAY* too much product. Sounds to me like you're doing that. Note that some products basically never dust unless you use too much. Try using just enough product to "lubricate" the pad so it's not like running a dry pad across the panel. Like...use very little and add a tiny bit more if you think it's really necessary. Note that too much product also makes for less correction; there's no upside to using too much so err on the side of maybe too little.
-how much to use, and how long to work it, will depend on the product, and I haven't used any of the stuff you mentioned. But generally you: a) prime the pad with some product (I do not advocate using something like the spray wax), maybe use those 3-5 pea-sized drops, B) work an area until the product is almost drying out and buff off what's on the area being worked, c) clean the pad (see below), d) add a *little* more product, not as much as you did when priming.
-there shouldn't be so much product in/on the pad that it can get "thrown out" or splatter around, or anything like that.
-some products do *not* break down, they just dry out. Meguiar's makes a scad of different polishes, but I wouldn't be surprised if the one you have is like this (no breaking down of the abrasives). Products that don't break down are nice as you can stop anytime withour worrying about the size/cut/aggressiveness of the stuff you're buffing off.
-works small areas at a time; I don't even like to do the commonly-recommended 2' x 2' size. Smaller areas are easier for me to manage without anything going haywire.
-I clean the pad a *LOT* more often than "every panel", IMO you basically can't overdo the cleaning but/and most people wait way too long.
-I like to clean my pads with compressed air, but if you don't have that then yeah the "wipe with towel" can work pretty well. Sooner or later (usually a lot sooner than people expect) the pad just gets too saturated for this kind of on-the-fly cleaning and you'll have to wash it out. Just switching to a new pad is sooo much easier (clean 'em all out thoroughly with Dawn or all purpose cleaner ("APC") when you're done.
Other stuff:
-what machine are you using?
-what speed are you running it at (proper speed depends on many factors, but I generally run my polishers at/near top speed)?
-what size pads? The common 6-6.5" ones are often (usually?) too big to work effectively IME.
This might all sound complicated and confusing, but with some experience you'll get dialed-in and then it gets a *lot* easier, and more intuitive. The whole thing is a bit more involved than one might initially think, but it's something you'll get the hang of after a little while.
I am using a Griot Garage DA polisher and a Flex 3401 Vrg. I use the Griots the most I have only used the Flex once or twice, and I have 6 inch backing plate on the Flex and a 5 inch backing plate on the Griots. All my pads I just go a large order of new ones. I am looking at my lighting issue because I know that sun light can also cause illusions of having swirls when you actually don't but Im not really in the mood to buy a new brinkmann and was looking at other lights I can use. Any recommendations? When I polish I don't have splatter but when I hit a edge or indent in body (not dents but curves and design features) I notice white dust or powder goes flying and even when I'm just on a flat surface.
Accumulator
Well-known member
fangster- Ah, those are the two polishers I use for significant correction, all good there (including your pad sizes).
Inspection lighting:
-the sun isn't "creating the illusion of swirls", it's just showing you what's really there (sorry to say). The trick is to simulate that kind of "point source illumination" when you inspect. Generally, you want a single point of light, at a bit of a distance, that's not too bright (too bright washes out what you're looking for). And you gotta a) move the light around until it's at the right angle and b) move yourself around until *you* are at the right angle too. Yeah, huge PIA at times.
-I'm kinda fanatical about my inspection lighting, using halogens, a 3M SunGun, incandescents (regular old "bare light bulbs", even just 60w ones, can actually work great under some conditions), and I'm experimenting with LEDs. I do *NOT* find fluorescents to be any good for this kind of inspection (they're fine for "texture" issues like orangepeel, coarse sanding/paint prep marks, and the like..). And if the weather cooperates I pull it out into the sunlight too (else I have to use the SunGun).
-biggest trick IMO is to turn out all the other lights, so your inspection light source is the only light shining on the area in question.
-getting the illumination and inspection angles just right can be a huge PIA...I often say that I really do spend more time inspecting than I do polishing! But then I'm usually working on silver vehicles and they're especially tough so see minor flaws on.
There are a lot of threads here where we discuss inspection lighting to death...probably worth the dreaded SEARCH as others have opinions/experiences that differ from mine. Plus, there are some really good ideas for DIYing pro-grade inspection lighting.
Get your lighting sorted out, use less product when compounding/polishing, work small areas at a time, and you'll be well on your way to getting better results.
Inspection lighting:
-the sun isn't "creating the illusion of swirls", it's just showing you what's really there (sorry to say). The trick is to simulate that kind of "point source illumination" when you inspect. Generally, you want a single point of light, at a bit of a distance, that's not too bright (too bright washes out what you're looking for). And you gotta a) move the light around until it's at the right angle and b) move yourself around until *you* are at the right angle too. Yeah, huge PIA at times.
-I'm kinda fanatical about my inspection lighting, using halogens, a 3M SunGun, incandescents (regular old "bare light bulbs", even just 60w ones, can actually work great under some conditions), and I'm experimenting with LEDs. I do *NOT* find fluorescents to be any good for this kind of inspection (they're fine for "texture" issues like orangepeel, coarse sanding/paint prep marks, and the like..). And if the weather cooperates I pull it out into the sunlight too (else I have to use the SunGun).
-biggest trick IMO is to turn out all the other lights, so your inspection light source is the only light shining on the area in question.
-getting the illumination and inspection angles just right can be a huge PIA...I often say that I really do spend more time inspecting than I do polishing! But then I'm usually working on silver vehicles and they're especially tough so see minor flaws on.
There are a lot of threads here where we discuss inspection lighting to death...probably worth the dreaded SEARCH as others have opinions/experiences that differ from mine. Plus, there are some really good ideas for DIYing pro-grade inspection lighting.
Get your lighting sorted out, use less product when compounding/polishing, work small areas at a time, and you'll be well on your way to getting better results.
Accumulator
Well-known member
fangser- We're disucssing flashlights for this on another current thread...might be worth looking for. I've done relatively little with them for this application so I'm not the guy to give a worthwhile answer, but anyhow- just try what you have and see if it works. But remember to turn out the other lights; the "dark field" thing is very important IME.
Just experiment and see what happens. If nothing else, you'll gain experience and there's no way around it- experience is extremely beneficial for this, you really do learn-by-doing. Just keep at it until you see the flaws that you know are there.
Just experiment and see what happens. If nothing else, you'll gain experience and there's no way around it- experience is extremely beneficial for this, you really do learn-by-doing. Just keep at it until you see the flaws that you know are there.