Cyclo polisher with Single Stage Black Laquer

[sd-slider]

I have an 87 Buick with single stage black laquer that is 22+ years old and is in excellent condition. Aside from a few paint chips, minor scratches, and swirl marks, she shines like new.



I have been trying different approaches to "cleaning" up the swirls and light scratches.



I've tried OTC Mequiars polish and wax(Deep Crystal) by hand, Meguiar's #09 Swirl Remover with #7 Show Car Glaze and #26 Hi-Tech Wax. These combinations all left a "haze" after the waxing step both by hand and Cyclo

(Green & White pads).



I recently picked up a sample kit from detailking-dot-com that included their Spyder Web Glaze, Foam Pad Polishing Gel, and the Cherry Wet Wax. I applied the Spyder glaze with a yellow pad, Polishing gel with the green pad, and finished up with the wax and the white pad. Three coats of wax on the top surfaces and two on the sides.



The finish looks awesome....until you run your hand accross it and it leaves a fresh set of "fine" scratches....Am I doing something wrong?



From my past experience with clear coats and newer cars, after a good waxing you can run your hand accross the surface and worst case you get a smudge that wipes off? Is the "wet wax" just that, or is it softer than some of the other waxes?



I'm at a loss. Any advice would be appreciated.



Thanks.

 

[Accumulator]

sd-slider- Welcome to Autopia!



Those GNs are cool cars :xyxthumbs



BUT...I hear they have very soft paint even for GM black lacquer. It's *your paint* that's so soft, not the current wax.



Other than the Meguiar's DC stuff (yuck IMO) I'm not familiar with your products, but I *am* familiar with the Cyclo (used them since before your car was made ).



I'd concentrate on preserving as much of that original paint as possible, even if that means living with some of the marring (don't keep polishing it all the time).





I would *NOT* use the yellow Cyclo pads on that paint. Ever. Period. They're just too aggressive and will haze it. If some defect is so severe that you'd need them, I'd just live with the defect.



The green Cyclo polishing pads are probably a bit aggressive for your paint too (I do my final polishing with much softer pads even on the hardest clearcoat). I'd probably use the blue Cyclo pads or even primarily the white ones on your car. I can't help but wonder how the #9 would look if you used it with those (milder) pads. Then I'd top with #26 and I would *not* use the #7 in-between. #7 can be tricky to use and all the oils in all those Meguiar's products are probably contributing to the hazing.



The #9 will hide a lot more than it'll correct, but the marring should stay hidden as long as the wax is healthy.



If you want/need something more aggressive, I'd go with Meguiar's #80 and again, top with the #26. I'd probably use the green pads for the initial pass(es) with the #80 and then finish up by usingit with the blue (or white) pads.



I'd probably apply the wax by hand in this case.



OR...since you liked the look of the last combo you tried, just stick with that and try to not mar the paint.



I really don't think the wax/etc. will ever provide enough of a sacrificial layer to make any real difference. The only times I've had that happen were with heavily layered Klasse Sealant Glaze and I don't think I'd recommend that stuff for this car anyhow.



Make sure your MF cloths are soft enough for that paint, and try to get your wash regimen sorted out so you don't keep marring it up. Just don't touch the paint except when you're detailing it, and only touch it *properly* then.



Generally, nobody touches the paint on *any* of my vehicles, period. I wouldn't rub my finger across the surface of any of them even though it shouldn't mar. I use this analogy: the paint on your car is as delicate as the surface of your eyeball.



It's not you, or your wax...it's that paint. Which is one reason why most GNs are on their umpteenth paint job