Couple of Klasse Questions

B

Bimmer-Bob

New member
As the title implies, I've got a few questions regarding proper use of the Klasse twins. So here goes:



I did my first detail yesterday and have to say it turned out pretty good. Maybe not by Autopian standards, but pretty good for a mere mortal. :) Anyway, it was pretty basic: just an all over shampoo with the two-bucket system (plus a third bucket for my wheel and tire sponges and brushes) plus some Griot's tire dressing. Afterwards, the plan was a coat of Klasse AIO, followed by several coats of KSG, followed by a coat of P21S wax. Unfortunately, this all took longer than I expected and I only got through the coat of AIO.



So my question is when I wash the car next (in about a week), can I just go ahead and skip the AIO and put on a first coat of KSG after the wash? And then second coat a week later, etc? After 3 coats I'd probably do the P21S, and then keep doing the P21S once a month. Four-six months later I'd probably start all over with the KAIO. Does this sound reasonable for an amateur noob detailer?



My second question is regarding amount of product to use. My instructions for KAIO said to apply a nickel-sized portion to your pad - is this supposed to be for the entire car? Because I used much more than that, and it seemed to turn out fine. I realize the KSG is supposed to be MUCH more fussy if overapplied, so some clarification on this would be appreciated, specifically: for each product is a sinlge application meant to do the whole car, or are you meant to reapply a little at a time to the pad over the course of the entire session?



Thanks for any info. I did do a search and gleaned lots of info, but didn't find these specific topics addressed. Plus I just wanted to post to this forum already!
 
You will need more than one application of AIO to the pad when you move to another panel. Still, I have been able to do my entire car with less than one ounce. I use small 2oz paint bottles from Michaels to judge how much I am using.



Personally I find the KSG easier to use over freshly applied AIO but you certainly don't "need" to start over with AIO next week. I have found KSG to be finicky. Remember to apply thin. The less you use the better.



I actually have almost a full bottle I will never use. AIO is a good cleaner and I have found it to be a good prep for my favorite sealant, BFWD. I usually follow AIO with BFWD and call it good.



Just my .02 :think2



Good Luck!
 
Yes, your plan of applying the SG after the weekly wash is fine, just make sure you're not using a wash that's leaving a lot something behind to interfere with bonding. And yes, you will need to add more AIO to your applicator, but less as you go along and the applicator gets saturated; be careful not to apply the AIO too heavily as it can build up at panel edges, etc. and be difficult to remove after it has dried. As noted, less is more.



BTW, your plan is more or less the old "Perfect Shine" method of building up a few layers of SG over a few weeks and then topping with P21S and doing it spring and fall...so you're in good shape.
 
If you want to make the 'top-up' of SG easier/quicker, then you can mix a 1:6 (SG:water) solution, then use it as a 'spray-on, wipe off' product - but only AFTER washing.



Until I switched to using Zaino a couple of years ago, I did this on the black Benz after every wash, and never had any water spots or contamination that didn't wash off easily.



Give it a try, I think you'll find it easier, faster, and cheaper (in the long run).
 
dmatre said:
If you want to make the 'top-up' of SG easier/quicker, then you can mix a 1:6 (SG:water) solution, then use it as a 'spray-on, wipe off' product - but only AFTER washing.



Until I switched to using Zaino a couple of years ago, I did this on the black Benz after every wash, and never had any water spots or contamination that didn't wash off easily.



Give it a try, I think you'll find it easier, faster, and cheaper (in the long run).
Click to expand...



Interesting on both accounts. Have you had any water spots with Zaino? I sure did.



Anyone else try the 1:6 with the SG?
 
Bimmer-Bob,

Welcome to Autopia, lots of experts here and I'm not one of them, but I have used the twins quite frequently in the past.



AIO is mostly a great chemical cleaner so like others have suggested, you don't have to apply it again in a week or so.



Sometimes SG can be a bit of a pain to remove so a couple of suggestions - put it on thin and it'll remove easier. Or, you can buff it as soon as you apply it, no drying time. I've done both methods without any noticeable degredation of protection.
 
Applying KSG after weekly washings for three weeks is a great plan. I wouldn't be in too big a hurry to put on the wax topper until you are sure you don't want another layer of SG.



Remember, if you can see the SG on the paint then it is most likely way too much. I recommend doing only a panel and then immediately removing the SG. If you are doing this for 3 or more layers IME it will not affect your durability in the least. You should easily get 4-6 months protection and maybe more depending on your environment. My wifes car is garaged at work and at home and 2 layers of SG easily lasts 8-9 months with weekly washes.
 
All,

Thanks for your prompt insight. I've only been lurking here about a week or so, but already I can tell that this is a great forum with a wealth of knowledge and a diverse group of active participants.



Something else I just thought of is that I'd like to clay my car again. I tried yesterday with very little success, but will either work on improving my technique or seek out a more aggressive clay (I'm using Meg's) as I've come across these weird teeny white flecks that seem to be embedded in my clear coat (car is <1 month old). Anyway, I was wondering how claying works with all of this? Do I need to remove all my layers somehow and start from scratch after claying? Or can I clay isolated spots without any effect on sealants?
 
Claying will remove your SG layers as well as any AIO protection which is what it is meant to do. It is meant for initial paint correction/protection process to start with a clean slate, smooth surface free of any contamination (including waxes & sealants).



I find applying SG right after AIO is best and you should find that after the first layer of SG the others will be easier to remove. If I have alot of paint correction needed, then I'll spend the first day washing, claying and polishing. I'll get my wheels in perfect condition. If I have any time will work on the engine or interior. The next day will apply AIO and first layer of SG and finish detailing whatever is left. I try to apply my 3 layers of SG at the 24 hour periods. I'll then apply a 4th layer about a week - to weeks later when I can apply an LSP right afterwards which happens to be S100.



I'll let this run for 6 months with my truck, 8 - 9 months with wife's car in garage.
 
The clay will pick the contaminants out of the paint, regardless of the sealant you have - so no problems there.



You may need a more aggressive clay, or simply more time (more passes at each location). When I finally got around to doing my Dad's car, it took quite a while to get all of the 'stuff' out of the paint. I washed the car, used the car wash as lubricant, clayed/rinsed/clayed/rinsed/clayed/rinsed . . . . .until the paint was finally clean. It took SEVERAL iterations of the process before the stubborn stuff was removed.



As far as water spots on Zaino, I haven't experienced any - but I use Z-8 after each wash, similar to the way I used the 1:6 SG mixture. I can't say that the Zaino is better/worse/easier/harder than the Klasse - I was just ready to see what Zaino did compared to Klasse.
 
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