Corvette, cyclo, 1z product lineup?

efnfast

New member
What would be a good place to start w/ a corvette hard clear and some 1z products (pasta intensiv and high gloss)? Green/HG, and if I don't see any improvement green (or orange)/PI?



I remember reading several comments a whle back that PI is really abbrassive, so I'm afraid of overusing it, even with a cyclo.........
 
Hmmm, green/HG didn't really seem to do anything.



Orange/PI took out some marks, but I'm worried that that may be far too aggressive to do an entire car in? I was rubbing a bit of it between my fingers and found myself thinking 'boy, this sure feels like sandpaper'.





I also had a few marks on my hood that would not come out - I did several rounds of Orange/PI, would start off with no pressure to work the product in, then applied a moderate amount of pressure to the cyclo, but the marks would not come out. I assume I would need a rotary for these at this point?
 
i would go easy as you have done. i can tell you first hand that this clear is hard. i personally would take more passes that one or two agressive ones if it was my car. i don't know of an easy way.:faint:
 
efnfast- I haven't had a 'vette since long before I discovered 1Z polishes, but I've used those polishes on some pretty hard clear.



As you found, the Pasta Intensiv/green doesn't do all that much correction. Via Cyclo, the Pasta Intensiv just doesn't seem to do nearly the aggressive correction it's capable of via othe means (and I *do* love my Cyclos anyhow).



I'd use at least orange pads for this, and if you have access to a PC with a small backing plate and 3.5" PFW pads, that combo is *much* more effective for serious correction on hard clear with Pasta Intensiv. This pad setup on the PC is much more aggressive than foam pads on the Cyclo IME.



Despite how gritty it feels, the Pasta Intensiv breaks down pretty easily, especially via Cyclo (due to its fairly high speed relative to its throw, or at least that's how I figure it). You can do *more* aggressive work with it by hand, oddly enough, but you gotta be a little careful as the gritty abrasives' initial bite can cause some pretty serious "tracer" scratches, almost like wetsanding, if you do it wrong...and doing it right/wrong is something I'm hard pressed to explain over the internet :think: By hand, you can't press hard until after you get the abrasives broken down a *very* little bit...just enough to avoid the tracers but not enough to diminish the cut too much.



Gee....I bet the preceding was probably not all *that* helpful :o Maybe Bence could offer you some better advice.
 
Haha, every little bit of info is helpful! =)



I'm through with hand polishing - shoulders and wrists just don't like it anymore, so I'm strictly cyclo.



I may try some Meg105 to compare it against the pasta intensiv to see how it comes out.



I did a section of my hood with orange/PI, followed by green/83, followed by wax, and it came out looking pretty nice.







In your opinoin, do you think it's a waste to follow orange/PI with green/83? I tried following it with green/high gloss (1z), but somehow the green/83 looked better, atleast to my eyes? I tried a small section with green/80, but it just hazed up on me again - I don't know why, but my 80 really hates me.
 
efnfast said:
I may try some Meg105 to compare it against the pasta intensiv to see how it comes out..



Hmmm..M105 via Cyclo would be interesting to try..I wonder how it'd work out. Don't overwork the product, the Cyclo can be a little funny with certain products in that regard.



I did a section of my hood with orange/PI, followed by green/83, followed by wax, and it came out looking pretty nice.



OK, but I bet it'd come out a lot nicer with some kind of follow up using a milder polish ;)



In your opinoin, do you think it's a waste to follow orange/PI with green/83?



*NO*. The Pasta Intensiv definitely needs a milder follow up IMO. Doesn't finish out nearly ready-to-wax IME.



I tried following [Pasta Intensiv] with green/high gloss (1z), but somehow the green/83 looked better, atleast to my eyes?



That's weird, maybe it's from the Meg's Trade Secret Oils or something. I get a much nicer finish out of 1Z High Gloss than I do out of stuff like #83, which never leaves a ready-to-wax finish for me.



I myself would follow the green/HG with *white* or blue/HG. A final burnishing with a finishing pad/HG combo *really* makes the difference IME.




.. I tried a small section with green/80, but it just hazed up on me again - I don't know why, but my 80 really hates me.





That's even weirder :think: #80 always finishes out nicer than #83 for me :nixweiss 1Z HG finishes out nicer for me than #80, but I've never tried it on soft paint.
 
Accumulator said:
That's even weirder :think: #80 always finishes out nicer than #83 for me :nixweiss 1Z HG finishes out nicer for me than #80, but I've never tried it on soft paint.



Yea, everything I've read on Autopia always seems to indicate that 83 is not as user friendly as 80. However, every time I apply 83 I have no problems working it in and removing it.



80 always seems to be hit or miss - sometimes it will work in nicely, other times it will look like it's been worked in, but I'll shine a light on the area and it will look god aweful, total haze everywhere I worked the product in that needs 83 to remove it (i.e., can't wipe it off with my cloth). Very odd.
 
Yea, everything I've read on Autopia always seems to indicate that 83 is not as user friendly as 80. However, every time I apply 83 I have no problems working it in and removing it.



80 always seems to be hit or miss - sometimes it will work in nicely, other times it will look like it's been worked in, but I'll shine a light on the area and it will look god aweful, total haze everywhere I worked the product in that needs 83 to remove it (i.e., can't wipe it off with my cloth). Very odd.



Pretty funny, because I'm using a Cyclo too, along with 83 and 80. I find them pretty darn difficult to remove with only a dry MF. I've been trying IPA mixed with water, or an ONR solution sprayed on the MF helps. I'm not sure if this is a no-no or not, but something doesn't seem right about wiping over and over the same section with a dry MF.



Also, what I've found, at least with my 07 F150, green pads and 83 don't do much. I went to orange and another attempt with 83–much more effective. Followed with 80 on green, then FPII on white. I also find FPII difficult to remove easily. But, then again I'm totally feeling my way through this whole gig of detailing:)
 
Some products just act funny via Cyclo, even stuff that's usually user-friendly. Klasse AIO is a *hideous* PIA via Cyclo, and that stuff is usually idiot-proof!
 
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