Correction on wetsanding...

S

solekeeper

New member
Hey guys, Im curious as to what speed you guys like to attack wet-sanding marks at?





Should i start off with a higher speed? then, lower it?

And also, can one explain what speed exactly does to the paint? (Faster vs slower etc)

This is on a Rotarty btw!





I'm using Meguiars105, and 205 btw. 2k sandpaper. thanks guys!
 
I don't believe speed (atleast higher ones) is required or needed for removing sanding marks. I'd focus on pressure, moderate machine speed, pad priming and slow movement. M105 seems to dry too fast with high speeds. Works like a charm around 1500 rpms. I also suggest priming the face of your pad too.



Are you having a problem at the shop?
 
I agree that speed is not going to be a factor when wishing to remove wet sanding marks. What I like to call the (3) P's when wetsanding: Product, Pad, Pressure will do more for you with this then speed (IMO). Speed may only get you burn marks. Take your time and if you have to go over it a few times, that's ok. I have a Dewalt, and don't go over 1400 rpm's when wet sanding. Last fall, I experimented with Optimum HC Spray for removal of wet sanding marks, and it works awesome. Very little dusting and great work time. Here is a Lexus I did using the OHC, LC Orange pads and medium pressure.



HC.jpg




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Street5927 said:
.. Last fall, I experimented with Optimum HC Spray for removal of wet sanding marks, and it works awesome...[impressive pix follow]..
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Ah, I'm gonna have to try the OHC via rotary, looks like a whole different ballgame compared to using it via Flex 3401. Thanks for posting that, especially the pictures.
 
When it comes to Wetsanding, preparation is the most inportant part. Just like all things in this business. If your a quality sander, removing the marks are simple. When I remove sand marks nothing changes at all in how I approach the paint when it comes to compounding. I would stick with how you feel comfortable using your machine, and spend the time properly sanding.
 
Barry Theal said:
... If your a quality sander, removing the marks are simple. When I remove sand marks nothing changes at all in how I approach the paint when it comes to compounding. I would stick with how you feel comfortable using your machine, and spend the time properly sanding.
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IF you use quality paper that doesn't leave deep random "tracers" ;)
 
This can be a difficult question to answer. I'm assuming you're doing a complete wetsand, and not a spot sand? I do a lot of full wetsands, and every paint job is different. If the painter didn't mix the right amount of hardener, it can make a drastic difference. Super hard clearcoats like PPG 2021 make Ceramiclear seem like lacquer, and if you don't sand and buff within 3 days of it coming out of the paintbooth, you're in for a world of hurt. Generally I use the same lineup on most cars, of Menzerna products. Today however, I have a super soft paint job straight from the painter, and I couldn't get it to finish with anything other than Ultrafina and a red ccs pad. I can pretty much grab the right product for the job for every paint correction I work on, but when it comes to aftermarket paint there is always time spent experimenting with what works best. You may have to try a few different products, speeds, and buff pads before you conquer the whole car.



John
 
Street5927 said:
True...contrary to Barry Theals new paper find, I still like the 3m Trizak.
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Used and trusted by 100's of thousands body shops world wide. Hopefully the Meg's take over will eventually make for some trickle down on their polishes/compounds. Optimum's Hyper Spray Compound is the bomb with rotary/wool!!
 
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