Confused bout Meg #9,#80,#81,#82 & #83

The Chee

The Chee

I'm back YIPEE Refreshed!
What are they good for?
1.In terms of removing swirls and effectiveness using rotary.
2. Do they leave anything behind in case if I want to use sealant?
3. Easy to use?
4.I read #81 is comparable to #7, so is #81 a pure glaze or like #7 + abrasive?.
5. What's the abrasive level for each of them (if they are abrasive)?
6. Which of these are comparable to SSR1,SSr2 and SSR2.5 ?
7. I have SSR1,SSR2 and SSR2.5, which of these would be redundant?


Thanks :)

Chee
 
Abrasive level on Meguiar's scale of 0 to 10
#83, Dual Action Cleaner/Polish = 6
#80, Speed Glaze = 4
#9, Swirl Remover 2.0 = 3
#82, Swirl Free Polish = 3
#81, Hand Polish = Very Light (Megs's doesn't even assign it a number)
#7, Show Car Glaze = 0

I have only used #83, DACP and #9 with a PC and the DACP is much faster, but also removes more paint.
It always seemed to me that #9 and #82 served basically the same purpose. I have not used #82, though.
#7 and #81 seem to me to serve the same basic purpose, but there again, I haven't used #81. I have used or tried to use #7 several times and have never had good luck with it. Bought it three ot four times, tried it and gave almost full bottles away each time. No more #7 for me.
#9, I use at least a couple of times a year on each of our vehicles. #83 is probably used on a few areas once every year or so. 32 oz. of #83 would last me 32 years. If you need something stronger than the SSR2.5, I think SSR3 might be a better choice for you than #83.
As far as going directly to a sealant, I don't know how it would work. I follow either the #82 or the #9 with a paint cleaner. Klasse AIO in my case.
IMO, if you have Poorboy's SSR2.5, 2, 1, you probably wouldn't have need for any of the Meg's stuff other than possibly the DACP if you have a vehicle with severe problems.
If I can use a PC and #9 with good results, your SSR's with the rotary ought to take care of about anything other than what really needs to be painted anyway. :dunno

Charles
 
I've had excellent results with IP, FPII, and the SSR's but I've often thought about the same question(s) because I've never used any of the Meg's products. Very thorough & informative.

thanks charles
 
Of the Meg's products listed, I've only used #7, 9, and 83. This is how I would compare those products to your SSRs -

#7 is strictly a glaze. Poorboy's does not have a dedicated glaze, but using SSR1 with a finishing pad can often emulate the look of a glaze.

#9 is in between SSR1 and SSR2 as far as surface correction abilities go. However, IMHO the SSRs are much more user friendly.

#83 is similar to SSR2.5 in aggressiveness. But, once again, the SSR product is more user friendly and less likely to introduce micromarring.

If you plan to go directly to a sealant, the SSRs would be a better choice. #7 and #9 will most likely leave oils and fillers behind which could create bonding issues. Using #83 has always required a follow-up finishing polish for me, so I can't comment on the ability to go straight from #83 to a sealant.
 
I use both Poorboys SSRs and Meguiars ...
On the PC, the SSR's perform better than the Meguiars for ease of use and the SSR 2.5 seems slightly more abrasive than #83
On the rotary, I seem to get less swirls when using #83 followed with #82.
I think this is due in part because there seems to be more oils (lubrication) in the Meguiars products.
While #9 and #82 are the same on the abrasive scale ... #82 is a bit more agressive and for me, easier to use (less gummy)
My favorite glaze from Meguiars is not on your list but is #3 Machine Glaze ... (Abrasive scale 1) Easy to apply and wipe off ... does leave oils behind though so that might interfere with a sealant.
 
Do you know if #82 gets out DACP haze as well as #80? I'm trying to decide what to buy as my small supply of #80 is running out. I find that #9 doesn't remove haze all that well. (I'm using a PC).
 
I use DACP quite often and there were very few times that I have had any significant micromarring occur. Use a LC polishing pad, either white or green, and work until nearly gone. Be aware that the marring is more likely to occur as the pad gums up so keep it clean (2 or 3 times for a whole vehicle). Any marring that shows up can easily be removed with SSR1 or VM. I have heard good things about #80 but have never used it.
 
I have and use #80-#85.

Here's how I use everything-
#9 I haven't used.

#80- The best one step I've come across. I use this at work and for customers who don't want to pay for a 3-4 step process. It's abrasive so it removes swirls/scratches, but breaks down quick so there's no hazing.

#81- I only use this for cars that are maintained. It's filled with oil, which makes the paint look good, but for a short period of time. Not what you want for winter prep, but for a car show, it's hard to beat. I use it on my personal vehicle after polshing and before my LSP's.

#82- I mainly use this in combination with #83. It's not very abrasive, but removes any hazing left from #83. I use this with the PC.

#83-On the majority of cars I do, I use this first. It can get rid of all but the heaviest of swirls. I only use this with the rotory.

#84- I use this on heavily swirls cars with a wool pad that boarder on needing wet sanding. It's like DACP on 'roids. It gets rid of pretty much all swirls and any deep scratches in the clear coat. This will leave hazing that #83 removes.

#85- I use this with a wool pad when I wet sand. This stuff itself is like liquid sandpaper, be careful if you ever use this.

I haven't used SSR2.5 but have 2 and 1. I put 2 between #82-83. What's good about SSR2 is it doesn't haze so you can go directly to a LSP. SSR1 is between #82-80, it's performance is similar to using them back to back. I have no preference to either brand because all are different and there are different situations where you would use all of them. Just get both.
 
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