Conflicting information, it's frustrating!

M

msmcdon

New member
Hey there.....:D



Got a question for you about your website. I have gone there a few times to look around and to see Jason's corner and his Klasse application instructions, but I am having problems. Hardly any of the links are actually "links" in my browser.



For example.... when I'm in Jason's Corner, the only four links that are active are: 1) your logo, 2) YoSteve Home, 3) JDC HOme, 4) Sign Guestbook.



All of the links in the menu on the left are just text.... underlined text, but not links. I thought I would let you know in case others are having these same problems.



I'm on a PowerMac, running IE 5.



thanks! :)
 
If you've tried clearing your cache and/or refreshing the screen, next I would try to make the text larger. Sometimes the text settings can make it diffucult for your to click on the words (being to small for the pointer to recognize) Is this the case.

Otherwise, e-mail me [email protected]. I can e-mail you the links. If it won't work cause of your Mac, I'll have to e-mail the pages.

I don't have it optimized for many other web browsers. I know there's at least one of you who can't even make it past the first page :(
 
I tried clearing the casche, refreshing the screen and trying the larger type size (boy.... that made a mess!) Nothing worked.



Increasing the type size really did some funky things, though. I can send you a screen-shot of what it looked like on my Mac. Just curious..... what application did you build your site in?



Thanks for the suggestions. I'll email you for the links, because I would like to see your site.



:p
 
I'll e-mail you the links, but my MAC friend uses Netscape and he's surfed on my webpage hosted by homestead.com successfully.



He said he's heard wierd things from Explorer. He dumped both IE and Outlook.



HTH-Steve
 
So, I've come to truth in detailing.

I've decided to keep my Flex 3401(for at least this minute), and I want to know which finishing polish would be better for me considering the tool I'm using. I'm having a hard time finishing with 205, so I want something finer that I can follow 105 with on soft paint. Would Final polish II or 85rd be a better choice with the 3401? Do either of these have the potential to leave marring with a finishing pad on soft paint? Is one easier to use than the other?

Thanks guys. :biggrin:
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
So, I've come to truth in detailing.

I've decided to keep my Flex 3401(for at least this minute), and I want to know which finishing polish would be better for me considering the tool I'm using. I'm having a hard time finishing with 205, so I want something finer that I can follow 105 with on soft paint. Would Final polish II or 85rd be a better choice with the 3401? Which one is easier to work with? Do either of these have the potential to leave marring with a finishing pad on soft paint? Is one easier to use than the other?

Thanks guys. :biggrin:
Click to expand...


Cannot go wrong with the aforementioned Menz products you listed, pad choice is very important! Hydro/100ppi gold and you are set.
 
I thought I read somewhere that Final polish II will break down faster than 85rd? Also, will final polish II have a greater chance to marr soft paint compared to 85rd(both with a finishing pad)?

I couldn't go from M105/orange, then straight to either of these polishes on soft paint?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
So, I've come to truth in detailing.

I've decided to keep my Flex 3401(for at least this minute), and I want to know which finishing polish would be better for me considering the tool I'm using. I'm having a hard time finishing with 205, so I want something finer that I can follow 105 with on soft paint. Would Final polish II or 85rd be a better choice with the 3401? Do either of these have the potential to leave marring with a finishing pad on soft paint? Is one easier to use than the other?

Thanks guys. :biggrin:
Click to expand...

07 z-oh-6 said:
I thought I read somewhere that Final polish II will break down faster than 85rd? Also, will final polish II have a greater chance to marr soft paint compared to 85rd(both with a finishing pad)?

I couldn't go from M105/orange, then straight to either of these polishes on soft paint?
Click to expand...

I'm going to break down your posts and address it point by point if you don't mind.

I've decided to keep my Flex 3401(for at least this minute), and I want to know which finishing polish would be better for me considering the tool I'm using.
Click to expand...

There is no right or wrong finishing polish because detailing is so dynamic. This can be frustrating for beginners because often it is impossible to give step by step instructions and directions. There are so many factors that will determine the best polish to use with the past pad and the best technique; some of these include: specific differences in technique, the paint (condition, hardness, abuse), the temperature, humidity, and requirements of the polish to the specific condition of the paint.
I'm having a hard time finishing with 205, so I want something finer that I can follow 105 with on soft paint.
Click to expand...

If you are dealing with soft paint you will want to use the finest polish you can that is still strong enough to remove any residual marring from the M105. With out seeing and experiencing (by polishing) the paint I can only offer some guidelines.

Of the three main Menzerna finishing polishes (106fa/FPII/85rd) 106fa utilizes the finest abrasives. At the OEM level 106fa replaced 85rd as the standard finishing polish. This doesn't mean that 106fa will produce a better finish by way of finer abrasives alone, as there are many people who feel they get a better finish with 85rd; particularly with a rotary, myself included.

When using a DA I cannot tell any difference in the finishes between 85rd and 106fa however. Despite the finer abrasives, 106fa has more polishing power as well. This will help remove any residual marring from M105.

Would Final polish II or 85rd be a better choice with the 3401? Do either of these have the potential to leave marring with a finishing pad on soft paint? Is one easier to use than the other?
Click to expand...

Final Polish II (87mc) and 85rd are very similar in the way they work, feel, and perform, besides being two totally different (chemically) polishes. On the majority of paint finishes out there both will produce near identical results. While they are similar in ability and even feel, 87mc is a little more user friendly in the fact that it just seems to work well on everything. It is one of the few polishes I have that has never acted up on any finish, at any time.

Any polish (and pad) has the potential to create marring. Some paints are so soft that even swiping them with a microfiber towel will create scratches. These polishes (including 106fa) are fine enough to greatly reduce the potential of this happening.

I thought I read somewhere that Final polish II will break down faster than 85rd? Also, will final polish II have a greater chance to marr soft paint compared to 85rd(both with a finishing pad)?
Click to expand...

87mc may breakdown slightly faster on some paints, although the difference is going to be miniscule, bordering on nothing. 85rd appears to use a thicker lubricant that will stay opaque once the pad becomes saturated with polish. The polish may not appear to breakdown long after it has been broken down. FPII on the other hand will have a slightly more noticeable change (until the pad becomes saturated, which takes longer).

The potential in finishing between 106fa, 85rd, and 87mc, particularly when used on a DA is going to be very very very similar unless one of the polishes just happens to work better on that specific day on that specific paint.

I couldn't go from M105/orange, then straight to either of these polishes on soft paint?
Click to expand...

It's hard to say because even as specific as you can be by describing the paint it is still a very general question in light of the numerous variables that affect polishing. Both 85rd and 87mc are very light polishes, so if the marring from M105/orange is deep then they may not work.

If it where me I would likely go with 106fa, as this is going to atleast have more power and may help remove any deeper marks from M105. There may be cases where the M105 defects are deep enough to require a middle step before final polishing, should the paint have really deep marring.
 
WOW, Todd!!! Thanks for the detailed reply!! :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:

I know there's MANY different factors, but lets just say I use M105/orange, then M205/black to clean up some of the marring left by M105. The M205/black completely removes marring from the M105, but leaves behind marring of it's own. Which polish do you think would be the best option in this situation to remove marring left by M205? I'm aware the next step might cause marring as well. I would like to do 3 steps MAX and be done with it. If there's still marring, I'll accept it. So, of the 3 polishes listed below, which will be the next best option to clean up marring from M205, and possibly leave a marr free finish on soft paint? Again, I know there's many factors, but this would be generally speaking.

Keep in mind I'll be using a Flex 3401

106FA, 87mc, or 85rd ??

I might have asked the same question that you answered earlier, so please bare with me. :) Maybe I'm just not getting it?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
WOW, Todd!!! Thanks for the detailed reply!! :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:

I know there's MANY different factors, but lets just say I use M105/orange, then M205/black to clean up some of the marring left by M105. The M205/black completely removes marring from the M105, but leaves behind marring of it's own. Which polish do you think would be the best option in this situation to remove marring left by M205? I'm aware the next step might cause marring as well. I would like to do 3 steps MAX and be done with it. If there's still marring, I'll accept it. So, of the 3 polishes listed below, which will be the next best option to clean up marring from M205, and possibly leave a marr free finish on soft paint? Again, I know there's many factors, but this would be generally speaking.

Keep in mind I'll be using a Flex 3401

106FA, 87mc, or 85rd ??

I might have asked the same question that you answered earlier, so please bare with me. :) Maybe I'm just not getting it?
Click to expand...

I have no problem baring with you (hang on that sounds kinda wierd :out: ) My goal on this forum is to help people get better, or as a good friend Mike Phillips recently told me, "to get better in their garage." If I could give you a concrete full proof answer I would, but I often feel the best way I can help is to provide as much (hopefully) useful information that will help you understand why might work a certain way and allow you to grow as a detailer.

If you are comfortable doing a three step system, then either 85rd or 87mc (FPII) should work perfectly. M205 will leave a very nice finish on most paints, but when it does leave behind a little micromarring, it should be very very shallow and super fine. While 85rd or 87mc are extremely fine polishes they should have more then enough cut to remove any trace marring from M205. I couldn't really imagine a situation in where they couldn't, although anything is possible.

As far as pad selection, I would recommend starting with a white pad and seeing where that gets you, before stepping down to anything softer. I would lightly prime the pad by giving ONE mist of water, then rubbing two quarter sized drops over the face of the pad as evenly as possible. Lay the pad (face-up) and allow the polish to permeate the pores of the pad for about five minutes.

Then wrap your finger in a terry cloth or microfiber towel and push into into the pad as the pad is spinning at slow speed and and remove any excess product from priming.

As far as final polishing technique with a DA, try using firm (not hard, not super light) pressure on about speed 4-5, and move slowly over the polishing section. Reduce speed to 3-4 for the final pass over the area, but maintain firm (enough to keep the pad engaged evenly on the surface of the paint) pressure through out.
 
zoraduntov said:
Those are great replys . They help me out as well . Thank you .

Might this be a way to go for 07 Z 06 ?

105 megs , 205 megs , super finish menz or 85RD ?
Click to expand...

That sounds like a pretty solid, fool proof plan (as far as any plan can be).

You may not need M205 as an in between step, as it is possible (although perhaps more advanced) to get M105 to finish out to near LSP levels.

M105 is an amazing product, not only because of the cut, but really because of the finish it can leave behind.

Next time you polish a section with M105 and stop, don't wipe off the product. Instead clean your pad by using a pad brush while the pad is spinnign. Add a small (very small) drop of M105 to the pad if the residue on the paint is dry. Now polish over the residue briefly using less speed, and slightly less pressure (still firm). Make two passes over the area and wipe away the residue.

Depending on your pad you might be shocked to find a very refined finish.
 
th0001 said:

That sounds like a pretty solid, fool proof plan (as far as any plan can be).

You may not need M205 as an in between step, as it is possible (although perhaps more advanced) to get M105 to finish out to near LSP levels.

M105 is an amazing product, not only because of the cut, but really because of the finish it can leave behind.

Next time you polish a section with M105 and stop, don't wipe off the product. Instead clean your pad by using a pad brush while the pad is spinnign. Add a small (very small) drop of M105 to the pad if the residue on the paint is dry. Now polish over the residue briefly using less speed, and slightly less pressure (still firm). Make two passes over the area and wipe away the residue.

Depending on your pad you might be shocked to find a very refined finish.
Click to expand...

Todd,
You did a great job of explaining this. I have purchased all of the polishes and pads you speak of over the past month and I havent been able to use them yet because of a: weather here in NJ, b: I tore my tricep off the bone 3 weeks ago and I havent been able to do anything with my left arm yet.

When I get going again, I will use your advice. I dont think you even know how you helped the novice out there. Most of us are just learning our craft and are fearful of screwing up. Your careful attention to the novice (and expert alike) is GREATLY appreciated.

Sincerely, Joe DeNisco
 
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