comments on this?

III

97 bonneville/98 Z71
I would be interested in getting some feedback from people on certain sections of an article I came across on the web. Let me state that I've e-mailed my concerns to the author and I haven't received a reply. I picked two of the areas that I thought to be kind of in question. The first section is waxing. Here's what it says:



"Now on to the waxing stage: I wonâ€â„¢t attempt to go into all the pros and cons of the different waxes on the market. As above, DON'T use waxes with petro-chemicals in them (while looking the other day at waxes I picked up a national brand and looked at the label - it had kerosene as a primary ingredient). You want to use waxes that have Carnauba in them. Be careful as some waxes advertise 100% Carnauba. This is not true as pure Carnauba has the consistency of concrete! Many wax companies will put a little Carnauba in along with chemicals (for example, 7% Carnauba as opposed to the good waxes having around 25% Carnauba and the great waxes with 50% Carnauba). You also have waxes that are billed as "Teflon" or other great wondrous ingredients to make it last. These waxes contain petroleum and other bad things for your paint. Another problem with these waxes is that when the coating gets old and starts to crack and you go to remove the "wax", it is very hard to remove. This in turn translates into using very strong ingredients to get this "wax" off. Another problem with chemical and petroleum waxes is that when you get them on your black trim they turn it white, or they leave white residue on the car. The natural waxes do not turn black trim white and they don't leave any residue. Another plus is with these type of waxes, you don't let the wax dry. This makes it MUCH quicker to wax a car. In addition, you can put numerous coats of wax on a lot quicker."



In my opinion this is saying that all petroleum waxes are bad. Also, is this section referring to petroleum based products or if a product has petroleum distillates? Who cares right? Either way not all products that are petroleum based or have pd's are bad.







Here's another section on tires:



"Now our final stop before I quit: THE TIRES!!!! How many use Armorall or other type brands of tire dressing??? Well, hereâ€â„¢s the low-down......to make a long explanation short, tires come with protective waxes in the tire. Itâ€â„¢s the job of this wax to keep the ozone from eating away at the rubber, i.e. dry rot. These waxes are brought to the surface of the tire by the tire flexing, i.e. the car being driven. When these waxes come to the surface of the rubber, they form a protective barrier between the air and the tire polymer. When the car isnâ€â„¢t driven, then these waxes don't come out to protect the tire and what wax is there is quickly eaten away by the ozone. It then starts to attack the tire polymer. Once this starts you soon wind up with cracked and dried tires. Products like Armorall have petro-chemicals and silicone oils in them. These dissolve away the waxes of the tire and can actually aggress the sidewall. When a tire manufacturer has a tire come back with sidewall failure, they check for use of products with petro-chemicals in them. If they find use of those products, they will not warranty the tire.



So what do you want for tire protectant??? You want a protector that has NO petro-chemicals or silicone oils and doesn't remove the wax from the tires. I personally use 303 Protectant. There are others out there besides 303. If you have used Armorall, then you have probably noticed the build up that repeated applications cause. 303 soaks into the rubber so you donâ€â„¢t wind up with a greasy mess and is water based. Also, 303 doesn't attract dirt and dust like Armorall does."





Let me say that I'm an armor all user. I wouldn't have used it years ago, but since their formula is water based now I feel comfortable using it. Here's my point on armor all. Just like there are good and bad petroleum distillates, there are good and bad silicones. Just because armor all has silicones in it doesn't mean it's bad. I don't agree with the statement made about armor all

dissolving the waxes from tires. Am I way off base with my observations about this and the wax thing? When I e-mailed this person I pretty much said the same thing that I'm saying now to all of you. Here's a link to the whole article:



http://www.mustanggt.org/carcare.htm#tires
 
You're spot on for both points.



To say that all PDs are bad shows that the author is very ignorant about PDs. As I've said before there are a multitude of chemicals that come from the petroleum distillation process and these chemicals can be processed into thousands of different products which a great variance of behaviors. To lump them all together and say they're all bad for wax and sealants is a very ill informed statement.



The "bad" silicone is dimethyl silicone. Armor all used to contain it, but was reformulated a few years ago and no longer does. Dimethyl silicone is nasty stuff and will interfere with the plasticizers for vinyl, rubber, and plastic and will cause them to crack and wear prematurely. Armor All Original, now contains Polydimethyl siloxane(PDMS). PDMS is still a silicone, but it's a water based silicone and behaves very differently than dimethyl silicone and is very safe. When people refer to "silicone oils" they are generally refering to dimethyl silicone and not PDMS. Someone who says "don't use Armor All", and "I use 303 because it's much safer" is very ill informed because both products are PDMS based and both are safe to use. Many tire dressing products still contain dimethyl silicone because it's very cheap and gives a glossy finish.
 
Can someone help me with the statement "The natural waxes do not turn black trim white and they don't leave any residue"?



Over my 30+ years of car cleaning & polishing I have never found a polish/wax that does not leave white deposits if you stray onto rubber trim. I keep a can of Prewash (Presol) on hand to correct my digressions.
 
Hemi57,



There are quite a few paint products that do not stain trim. Have no idea why they do not or what exactly causes a product to stain, but a few off the top of my head are AIO, SG, UPP, and Paste Glaz.
 
Meguiars #16 is an old school heavy paste wax originally developed in 1951. It does not dry white and it does not stain trim.
 
Silicone:

Silicones are basically inert; the myth / misinformation of grouping all silicones into one category and label them; harmful, environmentally unsound or dangerous is just that, a myth, and like most myths / misinformation there is a little truth in it. Making a blanket statement that products that contain silicone are harmful shows a lack of any real knowledge of either science or petroleum refining; these irresponsible statements are just negative marketing.



Silicones are primarily used to modify or improve certain characteristics; they are sometimes added as a lubricant to provide spread ability thereby making a product easier to apply.



The automotive industry uses silicones as component parts in its plastic, vinyl, rubber, paints, fibreglass as well as in polishes and waxes. Silicone oils provide an excellent lubricant that when used as a carrier system in polishes that makes them easier to apply and remove. When used in paints and other coatings it ensures an even flow through a spray nozzle ensuring an even product distribution.

The low surface tension of some silicones improves automotive cleaning products by increasing the â€Ëœwettingâ€â„¢ ability by providing a much better surface contact for abrasive or solvent type cleaners and polishes.



The newer amino functional silicones when added to products create a physical bond with the surface; this boding provides better product durability than products that rely only on surface tension for bonding.



Silicone oils are inherently water repellent so the wonâ€â„¢t allow water to compromise the paint surface providing better durability and protection. Because of silicones ability to refract light it also provides a â€Ëœbrighterâ€â„¢ shine.



JonM
 
Hemi57 said:
Can someone help me with the statement "The natural waxes do not turn black trim white and they don't leave any residue"?



Over my 30+ years of car cleaning & polishing I have never found a polish/wax that does not leave white deposits if you stray onto rubber trim. I keep a can of Prewash (Presol) on hand to correct my digressions.



The statement is technically accurate, but way off base in terms of practicality. "Natural" waxes generally refers to carnauba although other natural waxes like beeswax typically are added to carnauba wax products. Pure carnauba is hard as a brick, so solvents and additives are used to make the product workable. Certain additives which are commonly used in automotive wax products are actually what stains trim white for the most part. P21S natural waxes do NOT stain trim white in my experience. They will leave a white haze on trim in spots you missed, but are easily buffed off with a microfiber towel, so I wouldn't say they stain trim. I use S100 all the time. I apply it right beside my plastic trim with no worries.



Some of your better polymer sealants such as the ones previously mentioned will not stain trim.
 
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