Clear film maintenance techniques

autoconcierge

New member
Just saw this on detailed image and thought I would chime in as I work quite a few cars with clear film installed.







I have an alpine white bmw with a clear bra. The edges are of the mask have turned black. I wash the car at least once a week but the edges never clean up. I haven’t tried polish or anything on them in fear of ruining the mask… what’s the best way to clean them? Great site btw….thanks -jc



Thanks for the question JC. I am glad to hear you like our site and hope you continue to enjoy Detailed Image and find Detailed Image Ask A Pro to be helpful.

Clear bra technology has given drivers a clear alternative to those bulky, black vinyl versions of the 80’s. While the protection is comparable, the upkeep is a little more involved. The problem is that by being made to look crystal clear, any imperfections can quickly draw one’s negative attention. But with some attention every now and then, and some careful maintenance, clear protective films can go on providing invisible protection for many years.

It isn’t uncommon for residue to build up along the edges in the film (where the film meets the paint). It can come from built up wax residue combined with a little bit of adhesive trapping all kinds of little contaminants resulting in the black line around edges. Luckily, you should be relatively easy to cleanup with some simple products and some patience. The only time it would require some expert attention is if the edges have started to lift from the paint. In which case I will offer a suggestion, but should probably be taken back to the installer so they can fix it.

You will need: Q-Tips, Toothpicks, 1 Microfiber, and some Isopropyl Alcohol “IPA” (at about 30% strength). Beging by using your toothpicks break loose any wax residue that may be left crusting up the edge. Do not push hard into the film to avoid lifting it from the paint. You just want to run it back in forth in short strokes without jamming it under the film.

Next, soak 5-10 Q-Tips in the IPA. With light pressure, work the Q-Tips along the edge. Be careful not to apply too much force as you will induce marring to both the film and the paint.

Finally, use your microfiber to wipe up the area and move on to the next. Take your time and don’t be afraid to use as many Q-Tips as you have to ensure a nice finish.

Unfortunately, if the edge of the film has started to lift, and the dirt is underneath it, you will need to remove that portion of the film. For this I recommend expert attention (the person that installed it). If, though, you want to do it yourself, you will need an Exact-O Knife. Using a fine tip market, draw your trim line.Carefully trim the lifted area with the blade following the line you’ve drawn. Use only enough pressure to cut through the film and not damage the paint. You can see where the installer might be a better choice for this problem.

When finished, think about the future. When waxing the film, be very careful as you get close to the edge. One way to prevent wax build up is to apply 1/4-inch tape over the edge of the film. Another way is to use application strokes that move front to back only (off the film towards the windshield but not back towards the film). By using this technique, you would push any wax back into the edge causing residue to build up and make that Clear Bra look more like something from the 80’s.

Thanks for your question and let me know if you have any questions or comments.

Wishing you many distinctive miles,

David Bibiloni​







Imho solvents or IPO will cause damage possibly to the film in the form of dulling the film and will be next to impossible to correct with polishing. What I do is utilize my steamer to emulsify the dried up wax or polish in the leading edge if the clear film is a pre-cut style as opposed to having the edges wrapped(Premier style) and gently remove the dried up stuff with a Q-tip at that point FYI.​
 
Auto Concierge said:
Imho solvents or IPO will cause damage possibly to the film in the form of dulling the film and will be next to impossible to correct with polishing. What I do is utilize my steamer to emulsify the dried up wax or polish in the leading edge if the clear film is a pre-cut style as opposed to having the edges wrapped(Premier style) and gently remove the dried up stuff with a Q-tip at that point FYI.



Bob - I take it your comments are what I've quoted above Right? If so, because I know you have tons of direct experience working with both clear bras and have worked on clear bra projects with some of the most spectacular installers in the country, I know you know what you're talking about. As a matter of fact, the Click N Brag you did of the Rolls Drophead covered head to toe in Clear Bra still in fresh in my mind! It's amazing to see someone post such rediculous instructions on a somewhat respectable web-site. Who is David Bibiloni anyways? Is he a well known detailer and/or Clear Bra installer?
 
First, I do agree with the practice of using 1/4" masking tape, 3M fine line plastic in particular, on the perimeter of the film to prevent any product build up and to help avoid the use of something like a toothpick (really?) after application.



I've always been hesitant to use any solvent near the adhesive edge of any aftermarket applied vinyl, decals and paint protection film. Any detailer who has seen a clear bra installed by a less than capable technician knows that corners peel and trap debris, compound and convex areas can lift, and incorrectly wrapped custom edging (not pre cut) will create a ripple. When I see a problem area like those, the last thing I want to do is make it worse with a solvent which has the ability to degrade the backing and/or adhesive. This is in addition to the comments added about a solvent's effect on dulling or creating inconsistent clarity on the surface of the film.
 
Just wanted to share one of things I do to help keep guys out of trouble, because once the film is damaged there is no going back so I use the cleaner Sam and Wilson came up with to safely clean clear film (premier TTR) in addition to the steamer trick(if you have a steamer, or if not another great reason to get one).
 
Good tip about the steamer, I woulda been nervous about it causing problems.



Auto Concierge said:
... Beging by using your toothpicks break loose any wax residue that may be left crusting up the edge....



Along the lines of "try the least aggressive method first", I flag the tip of the [wooden stick] with a razor blade and soak it in something like #34. That's usually still aggressive enough to clear away product residue and is gentle enough that it usually doesn't cause any marring. I can always ramp up the aggression if that's too gentle.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong here but don't most installers use IPA on the clear bra during installation?



The Installer that did my 3M film suggest I use IPA to maintain it....not that I did, but it was what he suggested.
 
Just one of many posts related to IPA use on the film.



;2491424 said:
XPEL no longer recommends Plexus, I believe LLumar has stopped (they now recommend Zaino Z-2 and Z-3), and I believe 3M and VS are thinking of doing it too (from what I hear from my distributors). My distributors themselves have stopped recommending Plexus, and I'm sure the manufacturer will follow soon.





While you're correct that petroleum distillates are bad, you're incorrect on why. The main problem is the urethane absorbs them and causes it to yellow. This is why the lower to the ground the film is placed the quicker it yellows because oil, tar, etc are throw up onto it. You're lucky to get a year on rocker panels on a white car before you see the color change.



Rubbing alcohol does a great job of lifting soaked in oil based stains. Also, rubbing alcohol is what we use to apply the film.
 
FRIW - I've personally witnessed IPA dulling film on a few ocassions. When you even wipe the film the slightest bit it gets sticky.
 
A great product I've found for cleaning clear bras is PlastX, you can buy it locally and it actually, surprisingly does a great job at removing most bonded contaminants I've encountered on many of my clients track cars.



Just my .02

Josh
 
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