Cleaning chemicals

AccuClean

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Is there anything wrong with using Greased Lightning or Simple Green for basic dirt removal on lower body panels, wheel wells, or engine compartments?
 
I don't see anything wrong with it. Some chemicals probably dry out the plastic more than others so I don't know that I would use a really strong ratio.



The only issue with removing dirt on body panels is that you will remove any LSP you might have on it already. Also, many of these chemicals don't have much added slickness to them that can keep your washing sponge, mitt, etc from marring your paint. At least make sure you use the 2 bucket method ... I even spray the sponge out even after that just to be sure..
 
pwaug said:
I seem to remember something about Simple Green doesn't play well with aluminum.



Simple Green is corrosive and will react with bare aluminium causing hydrogen embrittlement (this is also known as stress cracking corrosion). As the cleaner gradually ferments it reduces the pH from its normal mildly alkaline state to acidic. Slow corrosion of the aluminium results, generating a little hydrogen on the surface.



Anaerobic conditions also generate hydrogen and hydrogen sulphide bio chemically, producing small amounts of methane. The aluminium probably has sufficient residual stress to be susceptible to hydrogen stress cracking, and this can be accelerated by the sulphide.



A ‘safer’ alternative Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner - http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_prod_ext_mor.php
 
Chemicals used for detailing / cleaning



The main priority is to ascertain the type of material and its finish that you are trying to clean and then select a chemical that is compatible it with. Do not use the product if it adversely changes the material’s colour or texture)



Before using any chemical read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH level, extreme alkalinity can do as much damage as an acid. Depending on the pH of the product you use you should return the surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you apply any dressing or protective products. Always select any chemicals that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment.



Use caution when using solvents (they don'y usually have a pH level to guide you how 'strong' they are)The low surface tension of silicones is sometimes added to solvents to improve the wetting ability and to improve the surface contact. Solvents require an aerobic cure (exposure to air) to allow them to evaporate (outgas); some solvents contain formaldehyde, which dissolves both natural rubber and synthetic compounds, and some contain petroleum distillates specifically hydrocarbon and oxygenated solvents, which represent most of the total organic solvents used.



Always use the appropriate personal protection equipment (PPI) cloves, safety glasses and ear defenders, as necessary

Providing the cleaning product selected is suitable, apply product to an applicator not the area to be cleaned (the only exception to this is glass surface cleaning) as this may cause localized ‘spot’ cleaning




Dilution of Cleaning Chemicals



a) Under-dilution – a chemical solution that is too aggressive can damage carpets, upholstery, wheels, etc. It costs more in actual product cost and additional labour to correct any problems that occur due to improper dilution.



b) Over-dilution - a weak chemical solution can cause inadequate cleaning performance, which means you will have to re-clean the same areas. With carpet and fabric upholstery, this can lead to over-wetting, resulting in such things as mould, mildew, shrinkage, etc.



c) Spot testing to ensure chemical will not stain or damage material is also very important
 
Just thought I'd mention my experience with Greased Lightning today. I was cleaning a friends mini-van with horrible brake dust on the wheels and Griot's Wheel Cleaner just wasn't cutting it. I have some P21S but I figured it wouldn't do too much better when I remembered seeing the wife had some Greased Lightning cleaner. I also remembered a very non-autopian friend once said it did a great job on his wheels, but I considered the source and pretty much forgot about it.



I sprayed some on the wheel I was cleaning and I couldn't believe it, all that was required to remove the brake dust stains was a little Swissvax Wheel Cleaning Brush. I seldom need a wheel cleaner for my own wheels so the strongest stuff I have is Griot's and some P21S, but Greased Lightning sure made a believer out of me for the few times I run into tough brake dust issues on friends/family cars:



Amazon.com: Greased Lightning Cleaner, 32 oz: Health & Personal Care



Hopefully my application of FK1000p will help my friend from letting his wheels get that bad again.
 
I don't see anything wrong with it. Some chemicals probably dry out the plastic more than others so I don't know that I would use a really strong ratio.



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On the Simple Green (and no, I don't hate the stuff...in it's proper use), I always think of that guy who ruined his Jetta's wheels with it. Happened so gradually that he didn't notice until it was too late.
 
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