Claying every month?

J

james51381

New member
I alternate washing my car with HD Free one weekend and then a traditional 2 bucket wash the following week. I notice about every 2 to 3 weeks my car feels like it needs to be clayed. I have been using the speedy prep towel so I don't mind using it this often, but is this frequency of claying normal? I work fairly close to the SFO airport and have a 40 minute commute. I have been using HD poxy, Meg's Ultimate paste wax, CG v7, and p21s through out the last few months with the same results. (no not all layered at the same time.......ok once.)



Thanks for any input

James
 
Its not unheard of. If you continue to have the issue, I'd suggest going with Opticoat. Most of that stuff will just rinse off. I've had Opticoat on a car for a year and it still doesn't need to be clayed. The one parked right next to it feels like it needs claying every 2-3 months or so.
 
I spot-clay as needed at every wash.



But if I were doing a real "decontamination claying" regularly I'd rethink my LSP and go with something like FK1000P (if not OptiCoating).
 
every month? I dont think I would quite go that far, but there might be a few conditions that take it to that level. *dust bowl, mud events, gravel & dirt roads, parked near construction area*



I'm in oklahoma and for the most part, the daily is parked outside 24/7.

I use Collinite 845 with 2 coats and sometimes top it with a few test waxes.

I will use clay 3-4 times a year. *wax removal and re-apply is semi-annual*



Just used nitro seal on my wife's car and planning to opticoat mine in the next few weeks to compare shine & longevity of each.

From what I've read on a few different forums, if water doesn't bead they can be revived with using some clay.

chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 
Hydrazine - an extremely active acid that is found in jet fuel, vehicles that park in close proximity to airports or flight-paths are subject to this contaminant. Park near idling diesels or an airport with a lot of jet fuel exhaust in the air; kerosene strips waxes or sealant; diesel and jet fuels are refined kerosene.



As suggested I would carry out a decontamination process, clay and then apply Opti-Coat to the paint surface for protection.







“See also - http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/136393-environmental-damage.html#



http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopi...42-valugard-paint-decontamination-system.html





 
Thanks everyone for the input. I'm somewhat hesitant on opti because I like putting on wax and trying new products. From what I read, nothing sticks to opti.



I am under a flight path as the planes take off which would explain the contamination.



I'm assuming bi weekly waxing won't help with this fallout and will leave more chance for me to scratch the paint.



If I decide to use opti. Which do I use? I have read of opti guard and opti coat.



Thanks again guys





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Optimum Opti-Seal is a true paint sealant with no cleaning properties. It seals and protects paint under a crystal clear barrier of cross-linked polymers. Dirt, moisture, oil, and UV radiation are all sealed out of the paint to maintain optimum gloss. It is a spray sealant that provides the durability of traditional sealants in minutes.



Opti-Coat is based on a resin pre-polymer manufacture by OPT and once it is applied, it cross links and reacts with urethane and other clear coat paints to form a permanent film. Opti-Coat has better chemical resistance, scratch & mar resistance, and release properties than any automotive coating in use. Like a regular clear coat, Opti Coat lasts indefinitely unless it is removed by polishing, sanding, or paint removers.



Opti-Coat has better resistance to chemicals (acid), scratches and release properties than other automotive coating currently in use. This coating has a 2-4 µ (microns) applied thickness and a hardness of 9H (Pencil Hardness) when fully cross-linked and provides a semi-permanent coating. Its application is similar to that of a single component Isocyanate that forms a semi-permanent clear coat finish and lasts almost indefinitely. Unlike waxes and paint sealants that require frequent re-application.





You can add a Carnauba wax or a polymer sealant for aesthetic purposes or as a sacrificial barrier, but be cognizant that contamination have a hard time adhering, so do waxes and paint sealants. The coating provides a very smooth surface and therefore the micro pores available for adhesion are very limited.

 
When I lived in LA basin, did a lot of consulting and work down where I think you are located.

Finish Kare 1000P was the most resistive to the hydrozine and suflur/nitric residue from the jet fuel.

Plus refinery emissions in that area.

The products mentioned, other that the 1000P, some I know, some newer stuff out there, not able to say yes or no.

No matter what product, you got the marine layer bringing moisture, you got the reactives of the mid and afternoon heat, that activate the acids.

Just wash, wash, wash, but first get rid of the acids that have pentrated into the pores and clay will not do that, nor will "one step washes that promise all".

Clean it to the bottom of the pores of the paint finish and put on something like the FK1000P, and be able to understand that your enviorment is one that is not kind to automotive finishes.

Grumpy
 
This is great information! Thank you. So the next step is decontamination. I have iron x gel and spray. Should that be enough to do the job? Or should I get the FK Decon kit?





Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
 
Iron-X is only for ferrous metal particles, it is not for "acids" such as your vehicle is exposed to.

I think, that once you use logic, how can an "acid only" product neutralize the hydrazine/sulfuric/nitric acids that your vehicle is getting on it every day?

That "roughness" you are feeling is the "swelling" of the paint film, plus a bit of ferrous metal particle contamination.

There is not one major vehicle manufacturer who recommends or requires in their technical bulletins, service bulletins, or service manual's the use of Iron-X to resolve the concern you are experiencing.

Products such as Iron-X are "marketed" with out any testing or approvals by those who spec and use a paint on their vehicles and are required to honor paint and trim warranty for a specified amount of time.

Perhaps these vehicle manufacturers may have tested such as Iron-X, however, it would appear, by the documented and published publications by them, it did not meet their expectations and the long term results, may create additonal warranty costs for them when utilized.

Only the ValuGard ABC has that posistion of vehicle manufacturer acceptance, unless you consider that Ford markets it under their MotoCraft brand, or companies such as Hyundia, Kia, Nissan, Mazda, etc have published TSB's that direct their dealers to use the ABC system.

It is part of the same in Canada, including Chrysler, and in some cases Chrysler USA.

Grumpy
 
Thanks Grumpy, the reason I bought Iron x was because of this on autogeek "Iron X Paste by CarPro is an acid-free, pH-balanced iron remover that decontaminates auto paint and wheels" I was under the impression that it ALSO decontaminated other types of fallout, like an all in one type of product.



I will pick up the ValuGard ABC to make sure I completely decon the car.



TOGWT - Thank you for clearing that up for me, very much appreciated.



James
 
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