Clay First or Prep-Sol First

S

should_have

New member
I would like to eliminate as many variables before my first polish using Ultimate Compound and Swirl X. I have been going crazing reading this forum trying to figure out if I should clay before or after applying Tar and Wax Cleaner (Rust_Oleum/Duplicolor).



Some say that a 50/50 IPA does remove a lsp and some say it doesn’t



How do you determine if the wax/lsp (Zanio) is removed? I thought I seen pictures where someone has just polished a car with water beading the same as a wax/lsp.
 
Use solvent before clay to knock down the heavy stuff that will eat up your clay bar. It will also allow your clay to work more effectively. Alcohol will remove LSP, but not so great with tar. Use a dedicated tar removing solvent for that (which will also remove LSP).



Here's the optimal prep process:

Decon wash > Solvent > Clay > Sand > Buff > Dawn > Alcohol > Seal
 
Thanks David, that’s what I was thinking, solvent to knock down the heavy stuff. But I was also concern solvent might react adversely to my clay. Hopefully the ONR Clay solution will neutralize the solvent residual.



I‘ll pass on the sanding part this time, but thanks again for the prep process “Decon wash > Solvent > Clay > Sand > Buff > Dawn > Alcohol > Seal” and your valuable input on this forum.
 
Some solvents like Meguiars Body Solvent and Tarminator will wreck havoc on your clay.



I do the following:



  • Wash (with strong solution of soap, spraying each panel with an APC as I wash)
  • Tar removal
  • Quick wash
  • Clay
  • Paint Correction (IPA on test panel)
  • Wash
  • IPA
  • Seal
 
Should_Have said:
Thanks David, that’s what I was thinking, solvent to knock down the heavy stuff. But I was also concern solvent might react adversely to my clay..
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The solvent *WILL* mess with the clay in a huge way, so be sure to overkill the cleaning in-between those two steps.
 
Are you referring to actually claying with solvent or the solvent residual left on the panel that the clay step might come in contact with?
 
David Fermani said:
Are you referring to actually claying with solvent or the solvent residual left on the panel that the clay step might come in contact with?
Click to expand...



I was referring to the latter, the solvent residual left on the panel that the clay step might come in contact with
 
David Fermani said:
Here's the optimal prep process:

Decon wash > Solvent > Clay > Sand > Buff > Dawn > Alcohol > Seal
Click to expand...



David, when you say Decon Wash do you mean like the Valugard or Finish Care Alkaline + Acid + Nuetralize Wash type of Decon Wash? If so, I would thought a three step decontamination would clean off everything and the Solvent would not be needed.
 
Yes - an ABC type of wash.



Acid Neutralizer removes all waxes, sealant, silicones, road grime, lot stains and storage stains. Neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint during transportation and storage. Removes lot stains and wax build-up. Excellent pre-wash for body shops - removes silicones, waxes and other contaminates before sanding. Saves time when applied to used vehicles, removes oxidation, reduces buff time.



The second step of our Neutralization System, Alkaline Neutralizer deep-cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline deposits. Also dissolves ferrous metal particles (rail dust) while breaking their bond to the paint so that they safely and easily float away.



The third step in our neutralization process, Detail Wash is a fine vehicle wash solution designed to return the paint to its original factory pH level. A true neutral carwash shampoo - not a soap - it will not strip waxes or sealants and is safe for use on all painted surfaces, trim and wheels. Excellent for everyday use, Detail Wash produces super long-lasting suds that remove dirt without stripping waxes, polishes or sealants. 128:1 super concentrate. VOC compliant
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Great for stripping a surface of environmental contaminants and waxes, but not good on overspray, tree sap and tar. It's really nice for prepping a surface for clay too, but a solvent still has to be used to remove tar and sap.
 
David Fermani said:
Yes - an ABC type of wash.



Great for stripping a surface of environmental contaminants and waxes, but not good on overspray, tree sap and tar. It's really nice for prepping a surface for clay too, but a solvent still has to be used to remove tar and sap.
Click to expand...



I never thought about that, thanks Dave. Any reason why you would recomend doing the decon wash before the solvent or does the order of those two really not matter? Also, which solvents do you like?
 
I've had better luck with the deon. systems getting stuff like tar off, but yeah...a solvent is better.



Oh, with those systems, consider claying while the acidic stuff is dwelling. Kills the clay quickly, but does add a little oomph to that part of the decontamination.



Should_Have said:
I was referring to .. the solvent residual left on the panel that the clay step might come in contact with
Click to expand...



It can be surprising how seemingly minimal (hey, doesn't this stuff evaporte "clean" anyhow :confused: ) residual solvent can *really* mess with the clay.
 
Bert said:
Which solvents do you like Accum?
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Wurth CleanSolve (AKA Cleans-All), AutoInt/ValuGard New Car Prep, and 3M Adhesive Remover.



But to be honest, the Wurth stuff is perhaps kinda just being a product-snob...not sure there's any real functional diff compared to regular old PrepSol. I used the later (and something called PreKleano too) so much back in the day that I don't mind smelling something different now that I'm not doing paint/body stuff any more. Though typing this, I'm thinking how maybe I'd like to use those again just for the time-machine effect after all!



But no matter what, I'd have a can or two of the 3M Adhesive Remover in every household :D
 
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