clay/bonded debris issues...what to do

E

Envious Eric

New member
ok, i need to know of a better way to handle this situation...



dodge ram 2500 white = big truck that shows all dirt on it, bonded or not.



wash the truck with ONR, removes all surface level dirt, nothing coming up on the WW drying towel.



bring out the clay, meguiars red aggressive, last touch/water mix 50/50 for lube, microfiber to remove residue right away.



whole process takes 4.5 hours due to it being EXTREMELY contaminated. I work pretty fast while claying, so its not a speed issue, its a process procedure issue.



what is another way to get rid of all the bonded junk from the paint. I have clayed the same truck before with sonus grey and it took 5 hours with slightly less contamination (I could still see paint last time, not this time).



I use ONR for all my washing, so I dont have a pressure washer setup. I usually work in the direct sun.



What are my options because my arm is killing me, I went through 4.5 hours of claying (too long to spend claying IMO, even though the result are well worth it as it looks 100times better), I used up 1/2 a 200 gram claybar = 15 bucks, and I had to call it quits and do the polishing tomorrow because I ran out of light, my arms are killing me, and my body hungry for energy.



Can I use a decon system in the sun, with onr??? If so, how is it different than washing and claying like I am doing???
 
Why is it getting so contaminated? You would think that the lsp would protect it somewhat. He needs to seal or wax more often.
 
David Fermani swears by 4000grit sand paper. Other than that I hear the clay replacement blocks clean very quickly/effectively but have yet to try one. Sorry, can't offer more than that.
 
would be kinda easy to kit it all with some sand paper, but its a once a year thing...



he doesnt wash it all the time, it sits outside 24/7, waxes every once in a while, etc...
 
Ever try washing with a bug sponge? I use a Pinnacle Safe Scrub Bug & Tar sponge when I wash, and it removes a lot of stuff that would otherwise have to be removed with clay. I spend a lot less time claying since I discovered bug sponges.
 
I second the Pinnacle sponge! It is a real go to product for me.



Are you washing, claying, polishing, and then sealing?



If you are, consider trying 1000P by Finish Kare. Work the first coat in thoroughly and add another two very light coats.



At this point contaminants shouldn't be such an issue dropping maintenance to a good wash, and a coat of 1000P every so often to bolster your base applications.



Maybe under extreme circumstances (various trees, birds, or industrial particulate) you may have to clay some residue off, but again the 1000P should make it pretty easy.



FYI I am experimenting with spraying my finish with FK quick detailer after my third coat of 1000P. I will let you know more as I hash this out.



If you need fast application upkeep after a wash (meaning you don't want to spend the time to bolster the 1000P between main applications) Ultima PGP won't tke much more than five or ten minutes for a full coat and you don't have to wipe if off. It does seems to work pretty well on top of 1000P.



Descriptions follow...





Finish Kare FK1​

Finish Kare FK1 Consumer Detailing Products

1000P

Hi Temp Synthetic Paste Wax​



Developed from a West German process called Synthesis 1000P is a blend of advanced pure synthetic materials. The result is a paste wax characterized by melting temps. of 250+ degrees, extreme hardness, extreme slickness, high gloss, and intensive wear without the quality fluctuations found in natural waxes. 1000P delivers heavy duty resistance to UV, hard water, acid rain, bug spatter, tree sap etc while creating a customer appearance. Excellent for use on all automotive paint, gel coat and metal surfaces including critical aircraft surfaces.



425

Ultra Slick Poly Wipe Spray Detailer - Anti-Static​



Polymer Resins with Lubricity, Anti-Corrosive Agents, UV Inhibitors and Patented Anti-Static Agents that gently remove fingerprints, smudges, and other light contaminates while creating a winning show car finish with lasting protection and reduced dust attraction. Leaves the finish so slick that it Eliminates the need for constant washing. Excellent for use on paint, glass, chrome, gel coat, fiberglass and plexiglass.



Ultima Paint Guard Plus​



Ultima Paint Guard Plus Clearcoat Paint Sealant



Ultima Paint Guard Plus, containing Polycharger Wax Booster technology, is the longest lasting, clearest and easiest paint protection you can apply to your car. This product takes about ten minutes to apply to a clean, dry vehicle. Simply wipe on and walk away. No buffing required.



Ordinary waxes and paint sealants easily wash off in a matter of weeks, but Ultima Paint Guard Plus continues protecting, beading water and shining for months. No other car wax product resists detergents, pollution, hard water spotting, road salts, insect remains, bird droppings and acid rain as well as Ultima Paint Guard Plus. The results are guaranteed.



Ultima Paint Guard Plus is a hyper-concentrated formula. When used as directed, a single 4 ounce bottle is enough product to coat a mid-size vehicle up to 20 times. Our super durable formula protects for months, but you may apply it as frequently as you like.



And FYI the Pinnacle sponge....​



Professional Bug Sponge 2 Pack
 
Man - 4.5 hours claying... Get some IcyHot for your muscles and some APC for that turd of a truck. I'd take it to the coin wash, spray APC on it, let it dwell for a few minutes then blast it off with the soap - then rinse.
 
Hmm...



I forgot to mention that you might try something like P21S Total Auto Wash. I find it an excellent solution to tough cleaning jobs like rocker panels, wheel wells, around the exhaust, etc. They also make a gel version that sticks to horizontal surfaces longer. Never tried it on paint though.



Is the P21S gel TAW (green) safe on paint?
 
toyotaguy said:
ok, i need to know of a better way to handle this situation...



dodge ram 2500 white = big truck that shows all dirt on it, bonded or not.



wash the truck with ONR, removes all surface level dirt, nothing coming up on the WW drying towel.



bring out the clay, meguiars red aggressive, last touch/water mix 50/50 for lube, microfiber to remove residue right away.



whole process takes 4.5 hours due to it being EXTREMELY contaminated. I work pretty fast while claying, so its not a speed issue, its a process procedure issue.



what is another way to get rid of all the bonded junk from the paint. I have clayed the same truck before with sonus grey and it took 5 hours with slightly less contamination (I could still see paint last time, not this time).



I use ONR for all my washing, so I dont have a pressure washer setup. I usually work in the direct sun.



What are my options because my arm is killing me, I went through 4.5 hours of claying (too long to spend claying IMO, even though the result are well worth it as it looks 100times better), I used up 1/2 a 200 gram claybar = 15 bucks, and I had to call it quits and do the polishing tomorrow because I ran out of light, my arms are killing me, and my body hungry for energy.



Can I use a decon system in the sun, with onr??? If so, how is it different than washing and claying like I am doing???
Click to expand...



read my thread on clay.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing-product-discussion/112929-i-love-clay.html#post1192010
 
IF working in the sun, I'd consider using the alkaline step of a decon system, but I'd do my [darndest] to *not* let the stuff dry on the vehicle. That part of the decon is like a super-shampoo, *VASTLY* more effective than the ONR. You can clay while it's dwelling, but it might mean going through a lot of clay.



I did a decon like that on a white Impala recently- AutoInt's "A", claying while it dwelled. Worked great. I also did an older Audi using the FK stuff, also claying while it dwelled. That worked well too.
 
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