CC hardness on a Prowler?

Hello David,



what medium cut compound did you use? 3M rubbing compound a good start to remove spider cob=web type scratches or other minor scratches? When you use a fine foam pad would that be a white pad? I take it that a wool pad would be an alternative if you didn't get your result?



What were the polish and glaze did you use? The Menza or Einszett products recommended?



Thanks,

Ken
 
e46_325xi said:
Hi,



One question: I am trying to decide between (i) 3M SMR for Dark Colors and (ii) Meguiars #9 SMR. I have a 2-year old dark blue metallic 3 series. Which one of the two SMRs should I get? Any pros and cons?
What problem are you trying to eliminate ? I have an Ann Red corvette [metallic] and I use 3M SMR to take off any cleaning scratches in the clear coat and it works great! I use it by hand[no buffer] and it works but you may have to use some elbow grease!
 
rain-on said:
Hello David,



what medium cut compound did you use? 3M rubbing compound a good start to remove spider cob=web type scratches or other minor scratches? When you use a fine foam pad would that be a white pad? I take it that a wool pad would be an alternative if you didn't get your result?



What were the polish and glaze did you use? The Menza or Einszett products recommended?



Thanks,

Ken



Hi Ken,



Yes, I use 3M Fine Cut for most of my compounding work. If you're working by hand, use the paste. By machine, get the liquid.



If you're removing 1500-2000 grit sanding scratches, use a white foam pad. Use plenty of compound... don't run the pad dry.



If you removing minor spyder web/swirl marks, Menzerna Intensive or another swirl remover polish formula is a better solution. 3M Fine Cut compound works pretty fast... too fast if you have not procticed.



After you've used your swirl remover polish or compound to cut the top finish, remember you still have to use a fine polish to bring the gloss back up. Use the grey pad with your final polish.



A note on the wool pads... DON'T USE THEM WITHOUT EXPERIENCE! They generate a lot of heat and cut very fast.



db
 
Hello David,



Thank you for the reply.



Although I have had a little explerience with wet sanding on fresh clear it probably means I better take a little more precaution with a rubbing compund on cured finishes



Menzernma will be used. My obsession is to find a product/system which takes care of fine scratches as well as other surface scratches. Losing sleep over a method and products to take care of scratches.



Thanks again for the advice.



Ken
 
Hi,



What do you mean by rubbing front to rear? Do you mean when you're working in a small section, and only rub left to right and never left to right and righ to left? If so, how long do I have to rub left to right?



Also, why is that according to this website http://properautocare.com/megsno9swirr.html

it says apply orbital?



Thanks
 
I'm planning on using Meguiar's scratch x followed by their pure polish product to remove some light swirl marks and water spotting from my clear coat paint this weekend. Has anyone had any experience with either of these products, how'd they do? I plan on applying both with my new random orbit porter cable polisher and a foam pad. I'll probably use the scratch x on the horizontal surfaces only since thats where the most noticable water marks are. The vertical surfaces look ok and may polish up fine with just the pure polish. I'll be topping it off with their Gol Class clear coat wax. Any thoughts or opinions would be much appreciated. Thanks.
 
Can anyone comment on the hardness of clear coat on a Plymouth / Chrysler Prowler? I may try to polish one later this summer or early fall. Has typical swirls from improper washing and needs the black trim restored. I would use my Flex 3401.

Regards,
GEWB
 
I believe the Chrysler CC are a bit on the hard end. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but you should have no problem with a few passes using the flex.
 
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