Can my leather be Salvaged? Please help, pics included!

8

89gt-stanger

New member
These are some pictures of my drivers seat, out of my brothers 1998 Ford Mustang GT. The seats have 165,000 miles on them. There are several cracks, where it looks like the leather is actually cracked all the way through. The entire surface looks like snake skin, being that the whole surface has tiny cracks that are in the pattern of snakes skin. There is also a ton of deep creases, but not damaged all the way through. The backs, and sides are not real leather, so those parts don't need fixed.



Can yall Autopians help me find a fix to this. The cheaper the price, the better for me.



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I guess that first, a good cleaner would be in order - you might be able to cut corners there as far as cost, but for restoration, I would at least take a look at Leatherique.com. They have restoration kits available that include cleaner, rejuvinator oil and crack filler/repair stuff. It's a process that is to much to describe here. Their webside has good information, plus you can call George at Leatherique with specific problems. It's work a look, at least. I've had good luck with their products on my 87 Benz leather seats.
 
karburn said:
I guess that first, a good cleaner would be in order - you might be able to cut corners there as far as cost, but for restoration, I would at least take a look at Leatherique.com. They have restoration kits available that include cleaner, rejuvinator oil and crack filler/repair stuff. It's a process that is to much to describe here. Their webside has good information, plus you can call George at Leatherique with specific problems. It's work a look, at least. I've had good luck with their products on my 87 Benz leather seats.
Click to expand...





Would you mind posting a before and after, and the cost? Thanks for the information, I will check them out!
 
one of the bolsters needs re stuffing , some cars are fairly easy to get apart and install new foam from the dealer or find a junk yard seat with better foam and switch that over , or an upholstry shop will help you out for cheap



as for the leather , a good clean will improve it some , but the cracks really need a sand and re color with a dye kit



heres a link where i re did mine ...used leathermagic products , similar condition to you , sand the cracked surface and re dye

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing-product-discussion/90928-my-leather-dye-results.html



before



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after



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good luck
 
i just used leathertique oil and pristine clean and i was amazed at the results, even the the cracks came out as if there were never any dirt in them.:2thumbs:
 
Okay. It seems like I am going to get the leatherique kit #1, with 16oz. of rejuvenator oil, 16oz. of pristine clean, 8oz. of custom matched color dye for $105. The 4oz. crack filler is going to run me $18.



My next question is, which grit sandpaper(s) should I use on the leather? I will be sure to post pics.
 
For the repair/refinish part of the job:



Probably around 220 grit wet sandpaper or grey scuff pads. If you use just the sandpaper be careful to not be too aggressive. If you use a solvent with it or even water, it will do more of the work for you. You don't have to sand all the way down, but enough that it breaks up the coating. And you'll see quite a lot of what you thought were cracks go away. Only use crack filler for what is absolutely needed, then air or heat dry and lightly sand afterward. Paint several coats with adequate drying in between (you can use a hair dryer or heatgun on a lower setting to help speed the process). After your first coat of paint/dye dries you might also see where you still need to fill. So don't be afraid at that point to fill again, dry, sand, and paint that area as many times as needed.



For some of these jobs I normally use another comparable product to Leatherique (just because it's less expensive), and not to confuse you, but I prefer to use the rejuvenator AFTER I've sanded but before applying a new coating. The reason to do after sanding is because sanding opens up the pores to receive the rejuvenator. In the winter time it is also advisable to pre-heat the seats for the same reason.
 
id suggest a selection of grades of paper and scotch pads



on good leather just clean with a scotch pad , bad cracks ive tickled with 180 then moved onto 400/600/800



differant leather sand differant to one another , use the finest paper that will sand out the damage
 
the materials are said to be as good what the factory uses , so it should last well



mines been done for over a year , some of the creases where it flexes everyday have shown up , but they are mild creases not cracks like the original had



its so easy to do i wouldnt mind re freshing it every couple of years ...i had lots of product left over from that
 
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