Burnishing Product ?

J

jooccord

New member
What product is applied when you burnish?

I've read the post in Machine Polishing forum, but I couldn't find out what product is used.

What would be the equivalent betwee the different brands?



I would imagine it being used quite sparingly too?



Thanks so much!
 
I vote for 85RD that stuff looks amazing on Honda Nighthawk Black Pearl paint. It really brings the black, and the flakes out!
 
On Audis, I like 1Z High Gloss and/or 1Z Pro MP (both via Cyclo with finishing pads, used after all correction has been finished). On the DenaliXL, I used 1Z WaxPolish Soft, also by Cyclo.



Yeah, I use *very* little product, just enough to keep the pads lubricated. I work the 1Z HG until it basically disappears (no micromarring from the residue IME).



On softer paint, I'd probably go with Menzerna FPII.
 
Accumulator said:
On Audis, I like 1Z High Gloss and/or 1Z Pro MP (both via Cyclo with finishing pads, used after all correction has been finished). On the DenaliXL, I used 1Z WaxPolish Soft, also by Cyclo.



Yeah, I use *very* little product, just enough to keep the pads lubricated. I work the 1Z HG until it basically disappears (no micromarring from the residue IME).



On softer paint, I'd probably go with Menzerna FPII.
Click to expand...



Thanks so much for the product suggestions!



Another quick question. Is there a big difference Burnishing on a DA(or cyclo) and Burnishing with a Rotary?

The term "Burnishing" just makes me think of heat, so naturally I thought of Rotary.
 
jooccord said:
Another quick question. Is there a big difference Burnishing on a DA(or cyclo) and Burnishing with a Rotary?
Click to expand...



Guess that depends who you ask, and what paint you're talking about.



I can never finish out 100% hologram-free by rotary, so I do my (final polishing and then the) burnishing by Cyclo. Somebody who can run a rotary better than I can might get a better result, dunno for sure :nixweiss



Note that we're talking about some *very* subtle improvements anyhow...the burnishing happens after the paint is already looking basically perfect. It's a case of doing something extra after you're sure it just couldn't get any better.



On some paints I hear that the final work *has* to be done via rotary to avoid micromarring (which would defeat the whole idea anyhow), but I've never encountered paint like that and, to be honest, I wouldn't own a car that had such soft paint.
 
Unlike compounding and polishing, burnishing has little to no cutting involved.

I'm still researching what's happening on a microscopic level (good info on Wiki).



Burnishing: Burnishing (metalworking - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)

Plastic deformation: Deformation (engineering - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)



So, "plastic deformation" really starts at the beginning of the machine

"scratch refinement" process. In a nut shell, round about way, the

very top crystal structure is altered/flattened. And since the plastic

deformation is described as a range, the art of it all is burnishing to an

optimum point before fracturing occurs. So, for burnishing, you'll want

the finest polish with a long working time.



Polishing swirl free with a random orbit machine is easier for sure.

But after a few years of practice, i find it just as easy with a rotary.

I only work on my own paint jobs, so it's always softer than OE paint.

And i do use a very soft clear from time to time, which isn't good for

production work but excellent in terms of durability, flexibility and repairability.

The down side, is just that, it's soft and mars easily. The plus side is

that it's not as prone to chipping (requires a costly refinish).

Harder clears are prefered for DD and softer (high maintenance) clears

are better suited for show/custom jobs.
 
I love 3M's Ultrafina via rotary and blue pad for burnishing. Heat it up to 1800rpms for maximum gloss then drop it down to 1200 to ensure a hologram-free finish. It gives a super wet look, but it can hide marring if the paint is not properly finished beforehand.



IMG_0520.jpg




(Right of wheel flare is burnished, left is not)
 
loudog2 said:
Got my vote for 85RD w/LC blue pad.
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85rd is used by many for jeweling, however, if you final polish a lot and don't want to degrade your cc, you should look into 87MC. 85rd has a cut of 1.5 and 87mc has a cut of only 1, which makes it perfect for correcting light marring and still burnish your paint. I take great pains in keeping my paint swril free and usually only need a paint cleaner when resealing or rewaxing. When I need to polish I use 87mc which has the least cut of the Menz line of polishes. BTW 87mc is the same as Final Polish II :buffing:
 
thanks for all the replies, it has helped a lot !



themightytimmah said:
I love 3M's Ultrafina via rotary and blue pad for burnishing. Heat it up to 1800rpms for maximum gloss then drop it down to 1200 to ensure a hologram-free finish. It gives a super wet look, but it can hide marring if the paint is not properly finished beforehand.



(Right of wheel flare is burnished, left is not)
Click to expand...



that looks amazing !! So burnishing takes away the little specs I see on the right side ?



Flashtime said:
Burnishing: Burnishing (metalworking - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)

Plastic deformation: Deformation (engineering - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)
Click to expand...

Wow burnishing is a bigger science than I previously thought!

good reading material :bow





loudog2 said:
Got my vote for 85RD w/LC blue pad.
Click to expand...

Legacy99 said:
85rd is used by many for jeweling, however, if you final polish a lot and don't want to degrade your cc, you should look into 87MC. 85rd has a cut of 1.5 and 87mc has a cut of only 1, which makes it perfect for correcting light marring and still burnish your paint. I take great pains in keeping my paint swril free and usually only need a paint cleaner when resealing or rewaxing. When I need to polish I use 87mc which has the least cut of the Menz line of polishes. BTW 87mc is the same as Final Polish II :buffing:
Click to expand...

Looks like my next supply order is going to include these :doh
 
Just to add a little more confusion to what Legacy99 said, 87MC/FP II is also known as Micro Polish. It's actually labeled as Micro Polish on the bottle...at least it is on the bottle I have.



In case you're wondering why 85RD has more cut than 87MC, it's because 85RD is rated for ceramiclear paint.
 
EisenHulk said:
Just to add a little more confusion to what Legacy99 said, 87MC/FP II is also known as Micro Polish. It's actually labeled as Micro Polish on the bottle...at least it is on the bottle I have.



In case you're wondering why 85RD has more cut than 87MC, it's because 85RD is rated for ceramiclear paint.
Click to expand...



Yeah, it depends on who bottled your bottle. If it was CMA (Car Waxes, Car Polishes, Auto Detailing Supplies, Car Buffers, Car Care Supplies, Car Covers, Car Accessories from Classic Motoring Accessories et al), it would say Menzerna Final Polish II on the bottle. If it was bottled by the Geek (et al) it will say Menzerna Micro Polish on the bottle. If it is still in its original bottle, it would say PO87MC.



And of course, it is not to be confused with the original Menzerna Final Polish. MFP has just a bit more bite to it. Similar correcting ability as PO106FF, but not ceramiclear rated.



Menzerna is great about having a simple, easy-to-follow naming system for their products.
 
Hey, Supe. I got my bottle from The Geek. It was one of the first products I ordered when I started detailing.



I still have the PM you responded to that breaks down the Menz classification system. It was so damn confusing when I started out. Thanks again!!!



By the way, I could smell the sarcasm in your final sentence. Haha.
 
EisenHulk said:
Hey, Supe. I got my bottle from The Geek. It was one of the first products I ordered when I started detailing.



I still have the PM you responded to that breaks down the Menz classification system. It was so damn confusing when I started out. Thanks again!!!



By the way, I could smell the sarcasm in your final sentence. Haha.
Click to expand...



That chart is a Detailing Guru Test. Once you know, understand, and can quote the Mernzerna Product Chart by Chapter, Verse, and product code, you can consider yourself a detailing guru.... "when you can snatch the PC from my hand, grasshopper...."



I figure I'm still about two years away. There abouts, anyway. ;)
 
Legacy99 said:
85rd is used by many for jeweling, however, if you final polish a lot and don't want to degrade your cc, you should look into 87MC. 85rd has a cut of 1.5 and 87mc has a cut of only 1, which makes it perfect for correcting light marring and still burnish your paint. I take great pains in keeping my paint swril free and usually only need a paint cleaner when resealing or rewaxing. When I need to polish I use 87mc which has the least cut of the Menz line of polishes. BTW 87mc is the same as Final Polish II :buffing:
Click to expand...



Which pad do you use? Blue or grey?
 
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