Buffers and their use

mercedesfanatic

New member
I stumbled across autopia around 3 days ago and have been reading it almost constantly learning new things. I've got some questions about buffers. I'm 16 and have been cleaning cars since I was around 11. I clean a 2000 MB S500 and a 97 f150, (serves as a work truck). The f150 has may scratches on the clear (you know where a branch has run across the side and put that white mark on it). The way I understand it is an orbital buffer will take them off. Since I see them so highly recommended, I was going to purchase a PC, but I saw on CMA that they say the PC won't take off paint defects.



I want to go ahead and purchase a cyclo, but having no previous experience with a buffer, how easily can you swirl up your car with them.



If somebody could give me some advice on using one, I think I could manage.
 
I started detailing arround 11 as well, I'm 19 now. The PC will DEFINITELY remove surface defects and paint problems when mated with the right pad, product, speed, and technique.



For the type of defect you are talking about, it may not be removable just by a machine, of any type. It is possible that it will need to be touched up using some touch up paint. What color is the truck?? if the scratch is white on a non-white truck that could mean its scraped through to the primer or possibly the bare metal.



If the problem isnt quite that bad, you can use a PC mated to either a Meguiar's Soft Buff Red Foam Cutting Pad with some 3M Finesse-It II compound, followed up by some 3M Swirl Mark Remover on a Meguiar's Soft Buff Yellow Polishing Pad.



I would do this set at approximately speed setting 5-6 on the PC, using a cross-hatch pattern, which is actually a "3-pass polish":



pass 1, vertical pass, up and down.

pass 2, horizontal pass, side to side.

pass 3, diagonal pass, 45 degree angle to pannel direction



you may want to add the following other passes to make it even better:



pass 4, diagonal pass, 45 degree angle in the opposite direction

pass 5, pass in the direction OPOSITE the way air will flow over the vehicle when driving down the road

pass 6, pass IN THE DIRECTION the air will flow over the vehicle



just repeat these 3/6 steps over and over again until the product you are using breaks down into a powder. Always make the end pass you do be in the direction the air flows over the vehicle - that way the air will flow better (probably myth, but I just like to do it because its what I've always done)



also keep in mind that with the cyclo vs. the PC, IMHO the PC is easer to use for a beginner at using a polisher. I started out on a cyclo when I worked for a summer at a chevy dealership way back..... it was quite the learning curve. I picked up the PC and was amazed how much easier it was to use. After you've mastered both of these, you can move on to a direct-drive rotary polisher which will give you even greater control, if you know what you're doing with it (it takes much practice to get good at this one).





hope all my ramblings help you sort of. Good luck, and may you have a long life full of great detailing! This is a great place to pick up good habits early on. :xyxthumbs



:wavey PS: keep in mind that you actually have to try hard TO swirl up the paint with one of the random-orbit units. The only problem the cyclo has is that the way you hold onto it isn't quite as sturdy as the PC's grip method (one handed with the cyclo versus both hands with the PC - although you will learn that all you truly need the majority of the time with the PC is one hand anyways)
 
SLP nailed it. PC's are very safe machines to use, especially for someone new to machine buffing. A rotary buffer will be needed to correct serious paint problems. It's very easy to damage the surface with a rotary buffer, you can burn paint, pop off a molding, and really destroy a finish. As you can tell rotary buffers are not for novices, it takes lots of practice to know how to properly use one.



But, with that said give the PC a shot. I think you will like it.
 
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