Buffer Tip & Tricks? tell me what you got!

H

hghlndr85

New member
hey guys im really getting into buffing. now i have only been doin it a few months but am told that my results are awesome for the amount of time i have been doin it but im always willing to learn more. so does anyone have ne tips or tricks that they cans hare to get the job to come out better?

thanks:xyxthumbs
 
Iâ€â„¢ll bump this thread . . . Iâ€â„¢ve been scouring the site looking for additional rotary tips and tricks.
 
Not to hi-jack but It couldn't hurt for me as well to learn something from this thread, although I do know some basics how to use a rotary even though I don't own one.



1) whatever your technique is and what your comfortable with and still get excellent results, stick with it. Your technique and your results will tell you what's right for you. This is kind of a personal preference thing.



2) Keep the buffer moving, never stop to itch your arm or something and hold the rotary with one hand while still the machine is still on and against the surface.



3) Arm speed. As you speed up the buffers RPM, you need to increase your back and forth arm speed as well so you don't burn the paint and keep an even surface temp throughout the panel your working on.



4) Check out Meguiars video "How To Remove Paint Defects" It actually shows you how to use a rotary. Gives you an idea of what to do and what not to do



Those are just some basics I know. If I was experienced with a rotary I could tell more. Hopefully this should at least get you moving in the right direction,,,,,,,AR
 
A good way to learn is to but a fender or hood from a junkyard and practice on that to get the feel of the machine. You will be able to see its limitations and yours.
 
"Autopia" doesn't, but Bettercarcare (learn button/icon) does (or at least did-haven't checked for a while)
 
Since you haven't said PC or rotary, i'll assume rotary. You should start by taping off corners and edges. This is always good practice, especially if you are using an aggressive pad or product. For all people starting out with a rotary, i would recommend starting with a final polishing pad and very light cutting product, like a SMR. This way you will get the hang of the motions involved and lessen the risk of damage.



If you want a great tip, practice makes perfect.



If you want a drill. Tape off vital areas. Take a fine cut product like 3M fine cut or IP with a compound pad and make one or two passes on the panel with light - medium pressure ( i'll say that the weight of the machine is med. pressure). This should induce some light marring. Next take 3M MG or FP with a final polish pad and see how much it takes, to take out the marring. Remember to look at the panel, in the right light, to see your progress. If you are using a filler product you should remove it with 50-50 ISO. to water mix. This should give you an idea, on how fast the rotary can work.



Another tip is to feel the panel, where the pad was last. It should have some heat, depending on how much "correction" is needed.
 
. Staying within the speed range of 1,000 â€â€œ 1,500 rpm, providing you are careful not to hold the pad in one place for too long, and paying attention when you come to the `edge' of a panel or a body contour it will not cause any damage or paint burn. Staying within this speed range it's pretty much idiot-proof (I can use it, what does that tell you)



Notes:

1.I would strongly advise the wearing of safety glasses when operating or using this or any other machine

2.Be extra careful and avoid sharp edges on your car because paint is thinner at these points and you may wear through to the base coat. If you are concerned, use 3M Safe Release Masking Tape over these areas. It's also a good idea to cover vinyl / plastic trim also.

3.Practice on an older car or a scrap yard car panel until you get the feel of it.

4.Prime the foam pad with clean distilled water or a QD spray as this helps the product to spread more easily.

5.After you are done compounding and you are satisfied with the surface finish you will need to apply some paint protection.

6.Using too much product will clog up the pad and cause bounce and possibly holograms. Too little, will break down too quickly thereby causing too much heat, also causing holograms.

Flexathene® Thermoplastic Polyolefin's are manufactured from polycarbonates or polymer blends and are used for aerodynamic spoilers, bumper covers and wings. They are a very porous vinyl with a `flex-agent' to ensure its flexibility and prevent `spider web' cracking. I would not recommend using a compound or a buffer/rotary polisher on these type surfaces, as it will cause them to smudge/smear due its porosity and the softness.
 
Spread the product with the machine off and start with the lowest rpm setting to spread it even more. This will allow you to move up to the higher rpms with minimal or no product slinging.



The Makita 9227C is great because it allows you to feather the trigger and vary the speed - it's lowest fixed setting is 600rpm but you can go even slower depending on how softly you pull the trigger. :2thumbs:
 
merci said:
The Makita 9227C is great because it allows you to feather the trigger and vary the speed - it's lowest fixed setting is 600rpm but you can go even slower depending on how softly you pull the trigger. :2thumbs:
Click to expand...



I also use the 9227, and I am familiar with the lowest trigger-lock position at 600rpm when set to speed 1 (use to LSP at this speed). May I ask you if the PC 7428 and the Dewalt 849 also have that trigger-lock minimum speed of 600rpm? I know they can run 0-1000rpm depending on the trigger but can they be locked at the lowest 600rpm just like the 9227? or even lower?
 
what are the speed ranges you use when compounding and polishing with a rotary. I have a rupes rotary with speed range of 700-1700 rpm.
 
Tinman



Ambient temp. and humidity plays a big part in polishing. If you are still green I would not recommend polishing in any type of direct sunlight. Depending on the type of weather your having your preferred polish may work perfect or it can gum up your pad after one panel. Some polishes are heat induced some have cooling agents in them. Try a few different ones to see what works best for you.



Speed and pad selection are the two key factors in a good finish. Your product will dictate your speed. You should never have to run higher than 1800 rpm.



After you prim your pad start with a front to back motion over lapping 50% with med pressure. Then side to side with the same pressure. Some guys will finish off with a light crosshatch going crossways.



Lake Country makes a smaller pad that will give you a little more control. Try them there my pad of choice.



It's hard for me to put every thing into words I'm not good at that. It sounds like you have the basics down and thatâ€â„¢s what counts. It's like Golf. You learn the fundamentals and then your own style or technique will come in to play that will give you that little edge.





:xyxthumbs
 
thanks Dent's and Details. problem is im in the tropics. Everytime I slow the buffer down to prevent premature drying, I induce holograms. i can't seem to find a compromise tho. Although my 3M waffle pads seem promising. Will try and try and still try to fimd the technique that will suit me. In the meantime Im still open to comments and suggestions/recomendations.
 
Optimum Polish has a long working time and will give you great results. I used to be a big 3M fan but that has all changed. I have worked it in the direct sun here in texas and had no problems.



I think it is for sale now and is cheeper than 3M.
 
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