magictouch100
New member
how do you remove the caked on brake dust that shows up after you clean the wheels . i've tried everything . thanks:scared:
break dust
- Thread starter magictouch100
- Start date
Old Pirate
AMG Classic Car Detailing
A very good washing of the rims (remove them) and then you can go with a sealant or Wheel Wax. That way it's so easy to rinse off. You will always get brake dust, but this should help to keep it down some and easy to remove.
What kind of car do you drive? I have found that some seem to create more dust than others. That being said I agree with zoomzoom, I waxed my wheels and it makes cleaning them a breeze on the next wash.
If you are only using soap and water and that isnt enough before moving up try some brushes to agitate it. If you feel you need a cleaner some of the Meguairs rim cleaners have worked pretty well or you could use some P21s wheel gel.
If you are only using soap and water and that isnt enough before moving up try some brushes to agitate it. If you feel you need a cleaner some of the Meguairs rim cleaners have worked pretty well or you could use some P21s wheel gel.
imported_Luster
New member
First off, I've changed all my brake pads to low-dusting "Thermo-Quiet" pads by Wagner. I can't believe the difference in the amount of brake dust. With the Thermo-Quiet pads there is hardly any dust, even after a week of driving...
Now for cleaning dust. On the wheels, once they are clean, I use either Wheel Wax or ClearSeal.
Easy to clean with car wash soap and water. Just don't let them go too long. (weekly is best.)
Now for cleaning dust. On the wheels, once they are clean, I use either Wheel Wax or ClearSeal.
Easy to clean with car wash soap and water. Just don't let them go too long. (weekly is best.)
Todd@RUPES
Just a regular guy
Hi Magic, are you refering to the caked on the brake dust that is impossible to remove with washing, or the type of brake dust that shows up right after you remove the car, but is easy to remove?
Todd
First off, I've changed all my brake pads to low-dusting "Thermo-Quiet" pads by Wagner. I can't believe the difference in the amount of brake dust. With the Thermo-Quiet pads there is hardly any dust, even after a week of driving...
Now for cleaning dust. On the wheels, once they are clean, I use either Wheel Wax or ClearSeal.
Easy to clean with car wash soap and water. Just don't let them go too long. (weekly is best.)
Where did you find these pads?? I have a Grand Caravan that is asking for a set due to the EXTREME amounts of dust put off by the stock pads..
imported_Luster
New member
O'Reilly Auto Parts. I have them on the Corvette, Trans Am and the GTP.
magictouch100
New member
yes its the little spots after you remove the first layer of brake dust .
imported_User Name
New member
I had major dusting issues with my IS350 and Lexus offered a free change to ceramic pads which is the ONLY way to go as far as I'm concerned.
I tried dedicated wheel waxes, sealants etc... and nothing worked well. Changing the pads was the answer.
imported_Slik560
New member
The guy that runs the shop were I get my Benz worked on swears by the Wagner pads. When my SL is due, I'm switching. The brake dust is breaking my spirit!
Speaking of long term brake dust, here is a shot of the reverse side of one of the OEM wheels from the Benz. 22 years of crud. I tried to clean them with little success, so because of this and the fronts being chipped, I'm sending them to a local wheel refurbishing company.
Speaking of long term brake dust, here is a shot of the reverse side of one of the OEM wheels from the Benz. 22 years of crud. I tried to clean them with little success, so because of this and the fronts being chipped, I'm sending them to a local wheel refurbishing company.
Thanks Bill..:notworthy::notworthy:
imported_ZeroDfx
New member
Speaking of long term brake dust, here is a shot of the reverse side of one of the OEM wheels from the Benz. 22 years of crud. I tried to clean them with little success, so because of this and the fronts being chipped, I'm sending them to a local wheel refurbishing company.
[/QUOTE]
I just purchased a used 2000 528iT and this is not unlike what I'm looking at on the interior side of the wheels. I tried Simple Green with very limited impact; then I tried a Meguiar's Wheel Cleaner with slightly better success, but the results were "spotty". I finally gave up with essentially a 50% impact. There must be some kind of tool/process/product that would work to get the remaining baked on 50% off, isn't there?
Does it have to be sand-papered off? Sand-blasted off? Chemically stripped off? What is the next step? (I am clear about preventing and maintaining once the grunge work is complete.)
TIA, Nick
I just purchased a used 2000 528iT and this is not unlike what I'm looking at on the interior side of the wheels. I tried Simple Green with very limited impact; then I tried a Meguiar's Wheel Cleaner with slightly better success, but the results were "spotty". I finally gave up with essentially a 50% impact. There must be some kind of tool/process/product that would work to get the remaining baked on 50% off, isn't there?
Does it have to be sand-papered off? Sand-blasted off? Chemically stripped off? What is the next step? (I am clear about preventing and maintaining once the grunge work is complete.)
TIA, Nick
imported_Luster
New member
T
TOGWT
Guest
Meguiar's Wheel Brightener is a strong acid, Ammonium bifluoride SiO2 (ABF) pH 5.0. Even with a dilution rate of 4:1 (as recommended by Meguiar's) results in a pH 4.5 solution. This product requires certain safety measures be taken; eye protection, respirator and gloves. For these reasons Meguiar's markets this product to professionals.
You should only apply to cool wheels (or it will become a strong vapour, you?ll also need to wet down cement as it can stain it. Do not use this product if the clear coat on your wheel has been compromised by rock chips, hitting a curb etc as WB could permeate the clear coat (or polished wheel surface) fogging or permanently staining the surface.(The statement made by Megs is that it?s a ?Professional Product? whatever that means, as it can be purchased by anyone)
Ammonium Hydrogen Fluoride
Other names: Ammonium bifluoride (ABF) Ammonium hydrofluoride,
Ammonium acid fluoride
[: Ammonium hydrogen fluoride is the inorganic compound with the formula NH4HF2. It is produced from ammonia and hydrogen fluoride]
One of the most common, and potentially dangerous, wheel cleaners; its effectiveness removing brake dust and difficult contaminants from chrome wheels is undisputed, but some chemists say ABF presents an unjustifiable and potentially lethal risk to carwash operators and their employees.
Industry experts say that the dangers of ABF are clearly outlined on the chemical's Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), and many consciously ignore the obvious risks because ABF is cost effective and reliable.
However, some manufacturers and operators worry that ABF is being marketed as a safe alternative to highly-corrosive hydrofluoric acid (HF), even though the two chemicals pose nearly identical health risks. Experts say that some operators have been lead to believe that ABF is [up to 20 times safer] than HF and that this misinformation may be causing a time bomb at hundreds of carwashes
You should only apply to cool wheels (or it will become a strong vapour, you?ll also need to wet down cement as it can stain it. Do not use this product if the clear coat on your wheel has been compromised by rock chips, hitting a curb etc as WB could permeate the clear coat (or polished wheel surface) fogging or permanently staining the surface.(The statement made by Megs is that it?s a ?Professional Product? whatever that means, as it can be purchased by anyone)
Ammonium Hydrogen Fluoride
Other names: Ammonium bifluoride (ABF) Ammonium hydrofluoride,
Ammonium acid fluoride
[: Ammonium hydrogen fluoride is the inorganic compound with the formula NH4HF2. It is produced from ammonia and hydrogen fluoride]
One of the most common, and potentially dangerous, wheel cleaners; its effectiveness removing brake dust and difficult contaminants from chrome wheels is undisputed, but some chemists say ABF presents an unjustifiable and potentially lethal risk to carwash operators and their employees.
Industry experts say that the dangers of ABF are clearly outlined on the chemical's Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), and many consciously ignore the obvious risks because ABF is cost effective and reliable.
However, some manufacturers and operators worry that ABF is being marketed as a safe alternative to highly-corrosive hydrofluoric acid (HF), even though the two chemicals pose nearly identical health risks. Experts say that some operators have been lead to believe that ABF is [up to 20 times safer] than HF and that this misinformation may be causing a time bomb at hundreds of carwashes
An extract from one of a series of in-depth, unbiased detailing articles ? TOGWT ? Ltd Copyright 2002-2008, all rights reserved.
imported_Luster
New member
I would also recommend wearing rubber/latex gloves when using acid-based wheel cleaners. I've had my fingernails damaged by some acid products.
T
TOGWT
Guest
Protection from Potential Health Hazards
1. Eye Protection: I would strongly advise the wearing of safety glasses when operating any machine polisher.
2. Other Protective Equipment: The constant pitch of a polishing machine could affect your hearing so wearing ear plugs would be wise to protect you from hearing loss.
3. Respiratory Protection: Materials such as aluminium oxide (Aluminium oxide is on EPA's TRI list if it is a fibrous form) or silicon carbide (Nuisance particulate-Accumulation in lungs ) used in polishes and compounds, and powdered fillers (Crystalline silica poses a serious inhalation hazard because it can cause silicosis) represents a hazard to your lungs and a respirator should be worn while using them
4.Protective Gloves: With the verity of chemicals a detailer uses on a daily basis wearing Latex cloves will protect your hands
5.Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS): Use a ring binder or other filing system to ensure the appropriate MSDS is always available to identify hazardous substances
6.Work Hygienic Practices: Rinse cloves under clean running water before removing them
7.Environmental Commitment: always responsibly dispose of all non-biodegradable materials from your vehicle cleaning in a responsible manner
1. Eye Protection: I would strongly advise the wearing of safety glasses when operating any machine polisher.
2. Other Protective Equipment: The constant pitch of a polishing machine could affect your hearing so wearing ear plugs would be wise to protect you from hearing loss.
3. Respiratory Protection: Materials such as aluminium oxide (Aluminium oxide is on EPA's TRI list if it is a fibrous form) or silicon carbide (Nuisance particulate-Accumulation in lungs ) used in polishes and compounds, and powdered fillers (Crystalline silica poses a serious inhalation hazard because it can cause silicosis) represents a hazard to your lungs and a respirator should be worn while using them
4.Protective Gloves: With the verity of chemicals a detailer uses on a daily basis wearing Latex cloves will protect your hands
5.Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS): Use a ring binder or other filing system to ensure the appropriate MSDS is always available to identify hazardous substances
6.Work Hygienic Practices: Rinse cloves under clean running water before removing them
7.Environmental Commitment: always responsibly dispose of all non-biodegradable materials from your vehicle cleaning in a responsible manner
Junebug
JAFO
On really bad rims I use this method, let the wheels cool, then wash with a pressure washer to get the surface crud. I use Megs Wheel Bright 3:1 (that dire warning from 2001 - car wash world, doesn't scare me, nor do I think Megs would sell anything too strong in this sue yo mamma world) spray the WB, scrub with a soft brush, then rinse with water, then I spray Majestic Solutions Super Green (alkaline) to equal out the acid, then scrub with a soapy brush, rinse with water and inspect.
T
TOGWT
Guest
That 'scare' article was about the use of Hydrofluoric acid ( which is one of the most corrosive acids out there (concentrated solutions of hydrofluoric acid pass quickly through the skin and cause deep, painful burns, even death) like they say 'a cleaner to die for'.
An MSDS is not meant to scare you, just make you aware of what chemical's ( hazardous or otherwise) that a product is formulated from.
http://www.sparkleauto.com/msds/meguiars/D140.pdf
An MSDS is not meant to scare you, just make you aware of what chemical's ( hazardous or otherwise) that a product is formulated from.
http://www.sparkleauto.com/msds/meguiars/D140.pdf
Junebug
JAFO
And if you take too much Tylenal your liver dies, too much aspirin and your stomach gets an ulcer, etc - you can even die from drinking too much water - it's true, a few years ago there was a white trash family that killed one of their kids by making him drink too much water - and they went to prison for it. My point is have a little common sense, unfortunitely government schools have just about eliminated that quality.