Brand new jeep | Klasse AIO and FK 1000p | help and tips

[xdreamer2]

I've just purchased a brand new 70th Anniversary Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (bright silver w/matching hardtop), just awaiting delivery. I've also got a set of aftermarket matte black wheels going on the jeep.



As soon as I get it home I'm planning to do a wash, Klasse AIO, and FK 1000p.



My questions...



1. Is it safe to use Klasse AIO on the matte black bumpers, door handles, side steps, fuel door, window trim, matte black wheels? Or should I avoid and/or tape off these areas?



2. I'm guessing that I should avoid getting the FK 1000p on these black surfaces as it will add some gloss to any of these matte black areas right?



3. Is there any product I should be using to protect these matte black surfaces?



pictures of the areas of concern:

Thanks so much!

 

[2005GTPinMD]

Those black surfaces look like textured plastic and/or metal - I would think that a paste based product would get into the texture and leave residue. If it is plastic, there are plenty of choices out there.

 

[Accumulator]

I've just purchased a brand new 70th Anniversary Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (bright silver w/matching hardtop), just awaiting delivery. I've also got a set of aftermarket matte black wheels going on the jeep.



As soon as I get it home I'm planning to do a wash, Klasse AIO, and FK 1000p...

Are you gonna do any kind of decontamination? Silver vehicles can really show any ferrous contamination/"rust blooms" and you won't know you have the problem until you see the little orange stains (the rust blooms from when the contamination starts to oxidize).



I know this is pretty late to be suggesting it, but IMO it really is worth doing and it's pretty much as simple as doing an extra wash or two with the right stuff.

1. Is it safe to use Klasse AIO on the matte black bumpers, door handles, side steps, fuel door, window trim, matte black wheels? Or should I avoid and/or tape off these areas?

I use KAIO on pretty much *every* exterior surface like that, rubber, plastic, you name it.



I've never had any problems using KAIO on such surfaces, never (oops, well...except for rubbing too hard on soft rubber). But I don't let it dry before I buff it off either. If I were doing it I *would* plan to KAIO those surfaces. BUT, don't make my mistake- don't rub hard on any soft surfaces (e.g., rubber) as you might mess up the factory texture.

2. I'm guessing that I should avoid getting the FK 1000p on these black surfaces as it will add some gloss to any of these matte black areas right?

I've used FK1000P on such surfaces with mixed results. When it works out right it leaves a nice satiny sheen that I really like. But the risk of staining and getting residue stuck in any texture is considerable and IMO you'd just better not use the FK1000P on those surfaces.



Would I try it? Maybe...it worked swell on my Yukon's trim and on the pieces I tried on my Tahoe. But I'd sure hate for you to have it go haywire.



The trick with using FK1000P on such surfaces is to apply as thinly as possible (beyond the usual "apply sealants nice and thin") and to buff it off before it dires (the wipe-on-wipe-off method). And don't try to layer it too much or, IME, you *will* get the residue issue in deeper textures no matter how thin it goes on. Eh....mighty risky.

3. Is there any product I should be using to protect these matte black surfaces?

The KAIO will work for now, but it won't last long at all. See how you like the subtle sheen it leaves (you can always clean it off with IPA or somesuch).



You could top those KAIO'ed surfaces with KSG. Or with Collinite 845.



OR...use the KAIO to clean/prep them, then wipe with IPA to remove the (minimal) stuff KAIO leaves behind, and seal them with Ultima's Trim Sealant or the newly popular "C4" stuff.



Here's a link to a thread discussing the C4: http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing-product-discussion/134971-g-techniq-c4.html



I'm debating what to use on my newly acquired TBSS, which has a lot of similar trim. I'll probably use either KSG or the Ultima Trim sealant just because I have those on hand. But if I were buying something new, I'd probably lean towards the C4.



I have the OptiCoat stuff, but I'm not ready to try that on such surfaces just yet :think:

 

[xdreamer2]

Thanks so much for this info Accumulator!



I know that the paint may have some contamination already from the railcar transport...but for now I'm just going with the KAIO on all surfaces and 2 layers of FK1000p on the body.

 

[jackob2916]

I've just purchased a brand new 70th Anniversary Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (bright silver w/matching hardtop), just awaiting delivery. I've also got a set of aftermarket matte black wheels going on the jeep.



As soon as I get it home I'm planning to do a wash, Klasse AIO, and FK 1000p.



My questions...



1. Is it safe to use Klasse AIO on the matte black bumpers, door handles, side steps, fuel door, window trim, matte black wheels? Or should I avoid and/or tape off these areas?



2. I'm guessing that I should avoid getting the FK 1000p on these black surfaces as it will add some gloss to any of these matte black areas right?



3. Is there any product I should be using to protect these matte black surfaces?



pictures of the areas of concern:

Thanks so much!

Jeep is my weakness I love Jeep very much

 

[Accumulator]

Thanks so much for this info Accumulator!



I know that the paint may have some contamination already from the railcar transport...but for now I'm just going with the KAIO on all surfaces and 2 layers of FK1000p on the body.

OK, understood...this is a big enough undertaking as it is, huh?!?



Be a little careful layering the FK1000P. I've had it do a solven-action thing on itself that resulted in pseudo-holograms, and I don't think you want to deal with those. Either wait a few days (yeah, I know...people say a day or so is fine but it was NOT IME) or do one coat now and then the second after the next regular wash.



You can get by just fine for a few weeks with only the one coat, so it's not like you're cutting any corners or under the gun for some deadline.



What I *would* give some thought to is what you're gonna use over the KAIO on the black trim. The KAIO probably won't last as long as you'd expect. I think what I'd do is get out a bottle of IPA (just in case things go haywire; you can use it to clean up and then reapply KAIO) and try doing a quick W-O-W-O application of FK1000P on one bit of the black trim, just to see how it goes. IF it turns out great, carry on; if it doesn't, clean it off with IPA and redo the KAIO. Just do the FK1000P as thinly as possible and buff buff buff immediately, with considerable aggression so you don't get residual product drying in the texture of the trim.



Heh heh, if you're leery of trying that with the FK1000P I don't blame you, but I did want to put it on the table for consideration.



Oh, one last tip- try fogging the surface you're working on with your breath when buffing off both the KAIO and the FK1000P. The tiny bit of moisture that condenses makes things a little easier with no downside. And remember to *not* let the KAIO dry before you buff it off.

 

[xdreamer2]

OK, understood...this is a big enough undertaking as it is, huh?!?



Be a little careful layering the FK1000P. I've had it do a solven-action thing on itself that resulted in pseudo-holograms, and I don't think you want to deal with those. Either wait a few days (yeah, I know...people say a day or so is fine but it was NOT IME) or do one coat now and then the second after the next regular wash.



You can get by just fine for a few weeks with only the one coat, so it's not like you're cutting any corners or under the gun for some deadline.



What I *would* give some thought to is what you're gonna use over the KAIO on the black trim. The KAIO probably won't last as long as you'd expect. I think what I'd do is get out a bottle of IPA (just in case things go haywire; you can use it to clean up and then reapply KAIO) and try doing a quick W-O-W-O application of FK1000P on one bit of the black trim, just to see how it goes. IF it turns out great, carry on; if it doesn't, clean it off with IPA and redo the KAIO. Just do the FK1000P as thinly as possible and buff buff buff immediately, with considerable aggression so you don't get residual product drying in the texture of the trim.



Heh heh, if you're leery of trying that with the FK1000P I don't blame you, but I did want to put it on the table for consideration.



Oh, one last tip- try fogging the surface you're working on with your breath when buffing off both the KAIO and the FK1000P. The tiny bit of moisture that condenses makes things a little easier with no downside. And remember to *not* let the KAIO dry before you buff it off.

yeah, I definitely am not in a rush to layer the FK1000P and will wait until a couple for the 2nd coat.



I don't even want to try using the FK1000P on the matte/textured black surfaces, I want to keep those areas shine-free and don't mind doing another KAIO layer sooner if I have to.



Thanks for the tip with fogging up the surfaces, I'll give that a shot.



Just one more thing, how long should I wait after applying the KAIO to then apply the FK1000P?



Thanks again!

 

[Accumulator]

..on the matte/textured black surfaces, I want to keep those areas shine-free and don't mind doing another KAIO layer sooner if I have to...

Wonder if even the KAIO will shine 'em up too much for your liking :think: See what you think...

Just one more thing, how long should I wait after applying the KAIO to then apply the FK1000P?

No need to wait at all IMO. If the FK1000P kills off the "not cured" stuff that the KAIO leaves behind it's no real loss as that stuff is minimal/inconsequential anyhow, at least compared with the FK1000P. But if you're tuckered out after all the work, you might want to take a break anyhow