Bought a porter cable, what do I need for it?

A

Astouffer512

Member
Very new to any form of actual paint protection.

A growing up auto care was a trip to Walmart as needed to get Blue Coral wash and wax soap, bleche-white, armor all spray, and turtle wax in the green can. So I didn`t grow up learning anything much.

As I got older and had my own vehicle I could venture out and try tutle wax compound before wa ing, but everything was by hand.

Now as a middle aged man with my own vehicles it`s time to learn how to care for them and keep them looking sharp

I purchased a Porter Cable second handed, told it works... but I am not sure what I need pad wise, backing plate wise, etc.


Product wise I`m going to finish up my meguiars ultimate compound, ultimate polish, and ultimate wax before possibly moving in to something else

Potentially chemical guys. I like the wash and other products I have used.

I have a 2005 equinox which is my driver and is in rough shape, but it isn`t going to be around much longer. This vehicle is black

My wife and I also own a 2012 Ford Fusion that is a metallic gray or charcoal


So both my vehicles are what I would consider dark for paint color- does that affect my pad choices and size?

I want to start simple. I`ll probably never (at least not my current plan) do heavy cutting and major detailing...bit if it grows on me who knows

I guess I`m really looking for advice on pad size and a workable pad kit. I like ths reviews lake country pads get on detailed image, but I am open to suggestions
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Astouffer512 --
Welcome to the Forum !

Regarding your Porter Cable 7424 First, please make sure you plug it in and it runs through Speeds 1-6..
It is going to want to move around, especially on the highest speed, so hold onto it firmly when you turn that little switch on.. You will get the hang of it..

Then, you will need ---

1. The long, thin, 6" flat wrench that came with it, to be able to hold that 9/16" size nut still, while you thread on and tighten a new 5" Backing Plate on. The Backing Plate will have the threaded stud that screws in to the machine.
Here is a new wrench if you cant find the original one -- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/porter-cable-7424xp-wrench.html#.XYGXltWpH3g

2. You need a 5" Backing Plate to put 5-1/2" Foam Pads on so you can use the machine.. Like this one--- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/da-5in-backing-plate. html#.XYGYOdWpH3g
You need a little fiber washer to go between the backing plate and the threaded nut on the machine.. I think it may come with the Backing Plate.. If not ---
Here is the washer --- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/lake-country-compression-washers.html#.XYGgsdWpH3g

If you want to use a smaller Backing Plate like 3", etc., they also sell them here at the Autopia Store..

3. You need Pads; I use Foam pads like these.. https://www.autopia-carcare.com/lc-h2o-9255.html#.XYGY6dWpH3g
These Lake Country Hydro-Tech foam pads in the 5.5" size will work really well, and leave a really nice finish..

4. You need some sort of towel, microfiber, or otherwise to wipe up what you do when you get ready to use the machine..
There are lots of choices here at the Autopia Store or you can shop around, and if you see something, it`s ok to ask us if it is a good choice or not, etc..

5. Product/s to work on the paint of your vehicles... We can bridge that when you get ready, ok ??

6. A good, 14awg (gauge) 25 foot extension cord to be able to work down 1 side of the vehicle/s, then perhaps you have to unplug it and go to the other side, etc...

Hope the machine works ok ! I see it already has a counterweight on it that says use only a 5 inch pad...
Your machine perhaps came with a counterweight for a 6 inch pad, and maybe the owner of it changed it out so you could use smaller backing plates and pads, like I have done to mine..

That Side Handle can be unscrewed and installed on the opposite side of the machine if you want to use it but it`s on the wrong side for you.. I use those side handles on the left side (looking down at the machine) of any machine I use.. I like the 6-o`clock / 9-o`clock leverage, others like just the 6 (the bottom half of the machine), and put the other hand on the top of the machine.. See what feels good for you..

This machine will need to rotate the pad to be most effective in paint correction at any level.. it will also move forward at the same time; all of this action will cause it to vibrate in your hands. Over a period of time, this vibration may /may not bother you.. I know from experiences using machines like this design, that after so many hours using it without a break, it can numb your hands.. You may not like that part..

Your 2 Meguiars products will work great.. I would recommend using those.. I have never seen any Chemical Guys paint correction products do much good.. They have a Zillion, mind-numbing, choices.. :) I tend to only use products that are -proven- over many years, to work predictably, reliably, etc., and fit my Business Plan..

If you are still wanting to learn more, we can talk about how to use this machine, what you can expect this technology to do, etc., when you want to talk about that part..

Ok, hope this helps !
Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
Astouffer512 --
Welcome to the Forum !

Regarding your Porter Cable 7424 First, please make sure you plug it in and it runs through Speeds 1-6..
It is going to want to move around, especially on the highest speed, so hold onto it firmly when you turn that little switch on.. You will get the hang of it..

Then, you will need ---

1. The long, thin, 6" flat wrench that came with it, to be able to hold that 9/16" size nut still, while you thread on and tighten a new 5" Backing Plate on. The Backing Plate will have the threaded stud that screws in to the machine.
Here is a new wrench if you cant find the original one -- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/porter-cable-7424xp-wrench.html#.XYGXltWpH3g

2. You need a 5" Backing Plate to put 5-1/2" Foam Pads on so you can use the machine.. Like this one--- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/da-5in-backing-plate. html#.XYGYOdWpH3g
You need a little fiber washer to go between the backing plate and the threaded nut on the machine.. I think it may come with the Backing Plate.. If not ---
Here is the washer --- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/lake-country-compression-washers.html#.XYGgsdWpH3g

If you want to use a smaller Backing Plate like 3", etc., they also sell them here at the Autopia Store..

3. You need Pads; I use Foam pads like these.. https://www.autopia-carcare.com/lc-h2o-9255.html#.XYGY6dWpH3g
These Lake Country Hydro-Tech foam pads in the 5.5" size will work really well, and leave a really nice finish..

4. You need some sort of towel, microfiber, or otherwise to wipe up what you do when you get ready to use the machine..
There are lots of choices here at the Autopia Store or you can shop around, and if you see something, it`s ok to ask us if it is a good choice or not, etc..

5. Product/s to work on the paint of your vehicles... We can bridge that when you get ready, ok ??

6. A good, 14awg (gauge) 25 foot extension cord to be able to work down 1 side of the vehicle/s, then perhaps you have to unplug it and go to the other side, etc...

Hope the machine works ok ! I see it already has a counterweight on it that says use only a 5 inch pad...
Your machine perhaps came with a counterweight for a 6 inch pad, and maybe the owner of it changed it out so you could use smaller backing plates and pads, like I have done to mine..

That Side Handle can be unscrewed and installed on the opposite side of the machine if you want to use it but it`s on the wrong side for you.. I use those side handles on the left side (looking down at the machine) of any machine I use.. I like the 6-o`clock / 9-o`clock leverage, others like just the 6 (the bottom half of the machine), and put the other hand on the top of the machine.. See what feels good for you..

This machine will need to rotate the pad to be most effective in paint correction at any level.. it will also move forward at the same time; all of this action will cause it to vibrate in your hands. Over a period of time, this vibration may /may not bother you.. I know from experiences using machines like this design, that after so many hours using it without a break, it can numb your hands.. You may not like that part..

Your 2 Meguiars products will work great.. I would recommend using those.. I have never seen any Chemical Guys paint correction products do much good.. They have a Zillion, mind-numbing, choices.. :) I tend to only use products that are -proven- over many years, to work predictably, reliably, etc., and fit my Business Plan..

If you are still wanting to learn more, we can talk about how to use this machine, what you can expect this technology to do, etc., when you want to talk about that part..

Ok, hope this helps !
Dan F
Click to expand...


Stokdgs,

Thanks for the in depth reply! How many pads should I purchase? From what I gather one pad isn’t enough for an entire vehicle. Do I need pad cleaning solution or will a good brush and dawn dish shop be enough to clean them?


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At minimum two compounding, polishing and finishing pads are what I`d start out with if you plan to knock out the car in a weekend. Three or four of each is better. Dish soap is good enough IF you don`t let the pads dry. Once they dry and depending on the polish is when things can get tough. I usually keep my wash bucket around after I`m done with the wash and just toss the pads in there as I finish but if you only have 2 or 3 of each pad, you`ll be hand washing them as you go along. If you are new, I really recommend the Meguiars pads, they are really Bubba proof and work well, last a long time and require little care. Other pads are more specialized weapons.
 
Astouffer512 said:
Stokdgs,

Thanks for the in depth reply! How many pads should I purchase? From what I gather one pad isn’t enough for an entire vehicle. Do I need pad cleaning solution or will a good brush and dawn dish shop be enough to clean them?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Astouffer512 --
You are welcome ! I am glad to help !

You should consider purchasing at least 6 pads of each type of work.. 6 for doing correction work, and if needed, 6 for doing finishing work..

I have only used 1 pad cleaner for over 10 years, this -- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/snappy-clean-powder.html#.XYJtGVWpH3g
It absolutely cleans pads completely, is citrus based, low foaming, so rinses out much easier than anything else, and is safe for the backing velcro on the pads..
It is also made by one of the major Pad Manufacturers, Lake Country, here in the USA...

My particular process for using pads is to keep them a little moist all the time with a spray of pad conditioner, then the product to work on the paint, then after using it all up on that spot of the panel, take a little white cotton towel and wipe off the pad surface, and look at what came off.. I can get much longer pad life this way, before I have to put that pad (which is now saturated in dead paint, product) in the 3 gallons of water + 1 packet of Snappy Clean pad cleaner..

Also, the number of pads is many, because once you wash them, they need to dry thoroughly as possible, which can take 24 hours or more depending on how well you squeezed all the water out, and how warm it is in the garage, etc.,,

Of course if this project is over multiple days, weeks, etc., then you dont have to worry much about how long its going to take to dry out your pads.. I have cabinets full of pads, so I never have to worry about that part..

Dan F
 
Astouffer512- Welcome to Autopia!

Some sorta-random thoughts follow:

-I vehemently *HATE* that vibration-telegraphing side handle and *NEVER* use it!! (heh heh, how`s that for emphasis? :D ) I just hold onto the top of the unit`s housing and press straight down (as best it`ll let me before stalling/not rotating the pad but merely jiggling).

-The only way I can do timely correction via PC is with small pads. Very small, like 3-4". Others say they do OK with 5" but that didn`t work for me. See how you do with the 5" ones and go from there.

-AFAIK, I`ve never used the "fiber washer" on a PC (the one Stokdgs mentioned). No, I don`t think that`s why my PCs are ineffective ;)

-You`ll need a *LOT* of pads. I consider Stokdgs` suggestion of "at least 6" to be about right although I myself use more.

-CLEAN/replace the pads frequently! I`d *NEVER* do a whole panel with the same pad, learned the hard way that they load with used product/cut-off paint and become ineffective. Cleaning them over and over and over (countless times per panel) helps a lot, but before long I reach for a fresh one.

-MF pads ("disks") are my preference for aggressive correction, then I finish out with foam. MF is easy to clean with an air compressor.

-While I still clean my pads with APC or Dawn Power Dissolver, I suggest you take Stokdgs` advice and get a good pad cleaner. Really ;)

-I`d sure stick with Compounds/Polishes from: Griot`s, 3d/HD, Meguiar`s or *MAYBE* one of the other big names. I`d first decide what kind of abrasives you want, at least in the choice between non-diminishing abrasives (my preference) and ones that break down as you work them.
 
I am considering working my way around my car a section at a time. Maybe tomorrow I will do the passenger rear quarter panel and the passenger rear door. With saying that how many cutting pads and polishing pads would I probably need for that? I am on somewhat of a budget so I don’t want to cause my wife a heart attack if I were to buy a bunch of pads at one time

Oils I get away with one of of each doing small sections like that?

Knowing that I have no idea how long this will take....how long does a panel take to cut and then polish?

Can I glaze and wax immediately after or does it require a wash in between the cutting / polishing and waxing step?


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Astouffer512 said:
I am considering working my way around my car a section at a time...
Click to expand...

That can be a great approach, especially when working with the PC; I do it myself. After each of a series of regular Maintenance Washes, I`d do a panel, or *maybe* two, and work my way around the vehicle.

Note that you gotta be *VERY* careful that 1) it doesn`t get dirty between efforts unless you`re doing those washes, 2) you don`t mar the just-done sections again or make the marring on uncorrected areas worse, and 3) the corrected portions will need some kind of protection before you do the final LSP (Last Step Product, i.e., "wax" or sealant/etc.).

Maybe tomorrow I will do the passenger rear quarter panel and the passenger rear door...
Click to expand...

If I were there I`d probably suggest doing just *one* panel, and picking a properly representative one so you can dial in your approach. All things being equal (and gee, they seldom are :o ), I`ll often do the roof or maybe the trunklid and then cover that with a towel/etc. so it stays clean.

With saying that how many cutting pads and polishing pads would I probably need for that?
Click to expand...

Depends whether you can get the pads clean *and dry* in time for the next session. ASSuming you can, I myself would want three Cutting Pads and two or three Polishing Pads.

"Sheesh, why so many?!?" Fair question! Answer: because [stuff] happens, and often at the least convenient time. What if one pad disintegrates for some reason? What if you tear or seriously contaminate one? Yeah, it *does* happen often enough to consider.

I am on somewhat of a budget so I don’t want to cause my wife a heart attack if I were to buy a bunch of pads at one time..
Click to expand...

Note that I`m not just dismissing that concern ;)

Oils I get away with one of of each doing small sections like that?
Click to expand...

Could you please clarify? I get the Q (answer = yes) other than that "Oils" at the beginning...

..Knowing that I have no idea how long this will take....how long does a panel take to cut and then polish?
Click to expand...

Longer than you`d ever expect. Sorry if that sounds smart-[aleck] but it`s the most truthful answer I can think of. I`ve spent *hours*, and I don`t mean just three or four, on one panel working via PC. With a small MF Cutting Disk and something really aggressive like Meguiar`s M101 you can do it a lot faster, but you`d better be careful if you do go with an aggressive combo like that.

Hold on, don`t get discouraged :D If your paint is softer than what I usually work on, and it`s not in awful shape, and you`re sensible enough to settle for "much better" rather than aiming for perfection, it can go much quicker, especially with today`s stuff like aggressive compounds and MF pads. Sigh..you`ll just have to do it and see, hence my "do one panel" idea.

Can I glaze and wax immediately after or does it require a wash in between the cutting / polishing and waxing step?
Click to expand...

I`m feeling like a [jerk] with all my "it just depends..." responses, but that`s the answer here too! If you get all the Compound residue off you can just go to Polishing without any big cleanup (though many of us will do one anyhow). Depending on what products you use, it might be either essential or unnecessary to strip the Polishing Oils after either/both the Compounding and Polishing steps before moving on to LSPing.

(IME it`s *NOT* a question of stuff that was left behind causing the LSP to fail prematurely or fail to bond, but rather that the unstripped oils will dissipate over time, maybe hours, maybe weeks, revealing residual marring that seemed to "come back" but was really still there all along. I can only think of maybe two times over 40-some years that I had the unstripped oils actually interfere with my LSP in a functional way. Another potential issue is the oils making things look bad, a phenomenon we call "pseudo-holograms", which is a drag to fix when it`s under your LSP.)

If you use something really aggressive like that M101 (or M105) you`ll hve to watch you don`t mar things up buffing it off (those products never break down, they just dry out and even then will keep on cutting whether you want that or not). If you use something like M205, well...good luck getting those oils off/out of the paint, they drive me nuts to where I quit using the stuff.

I would probably want a Polishing Oils Remover Product no matter what; there are plenty of `em on the market these days. NO, I ABSOLUTELY DO NOT consider IPA an effective approach for this (sorry to rant...I wish it were efective, but it wasn`t IME and I sure tried often enough).

OTOH, some Compounds/Products (3d/HD brand comes to mind) hardly leave anything behind at all. With those you could probably just not worry about it and go straight to LSP.

So I`d get those pads and products, a "paint cleaning/oils stripping product" of some kind, some *GOOD* Inspection Lighting, and pick a panel. Work a small area (I DO NOT use the usual 2` x2`, way too big IMO) to get dialed-in, and then expand that area to finish the whole panel. I`d also pull it out into the sun to check under natural sunlight. See how that one area goes and take it from there. It`s a Learning Experience :D
 
Stokdgs- The Eraser seems to have pretty much become the Standard Answer for that, huh? I`ll never use up even half of my PrepWash, but if I didn`t have that I`d sure give the Eraser a try.
 
Stokdgs said:
M.. I had great success with another Menzerna product for this purpose called Top Inspection... Which evolved into this -- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/menzerna-final-inspection.html#.XYawo1WpH3g..
Click to expand...

Huh, interesting. Given my general disdain for Menzerna stuff I guess it`s no surprise I never saw that one, huh?

Leaving the price out of it (IIRC, for around that $ I got a lifetime supply of PrepWash concentrate), I wonder how it strips those tenacious Menzerna Polishing Oils if it does *NOT* strip LSPs?
 
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