Best combo for "sticky" paints?

R

RAG

New member
Just wondering what others have found to work best on those sticky clears? Those that have buffed hundreds of vehicles surely know what I'm talking about...those paints that don't let the buffing pad glide effortlessly over the paint, resulting in greater friction and thus buffer swirls (only noticable via a rotary)...it's even harder to wipe the polish off on these paints. It's just something about the composition of the clear. Vehicles common to this problem seem to be Jag, Range Rover, Porche, and even Honda...and it's not generally an issue unless your working on black - but I just hate having to polish an extra step with a DA to reduce any chance of halograms.



I've always been a fan of flat pads, but maybe waffle-type pads would help...or maybe Ultrafina would better than my beloved 106ff on these paints?
 
As much as I love PO106FF (and I really do), it's not very good on soft clears. IMHO, the very best finishing polish for soft clears is Menz FPII. It's one of the most gentle, smallest abrasive polishes around. Apply with a red LC or Edge foam, and it'll shine up the softest of clears. I haven't tried UF on really soft clears, so I can't speak to that, but I can tell ya that it'll be hard-pressed to beat FPII.
 
I just had this problem the other day with a white Ford F150. I initially began using SIP and a purple foamed wool pad and it was skipping all over the paint no matter what I would do. I hung in there and was able to finish polising with the SIP/foamed wool but when I switched to optimum polish and a foam pad I had no problems at all. I guess it was due to Optimum's lubricity.
 
Thanks brother. FPII was my go-to untill 106ff came out...I experimented with it a while back on a "sticky" Range Rover with 4 or 5 different soft pads (American Buffing and Lake Country) and I still got that "grippy" feeling. I'll try it with waffle-type pad and see how that works out.
 
ej8tunerman said:
I just had this problem the other day with a white Ford F150. I initially began using SIP and a purple foamed wool pad and it was skipping all over the paint no matter what I would do. I hung in there and was able to finish polising with the SIP/foamed wool but when I switched to optimum polish and a foam pad I had no problems at all. I guess it was due to Optimum's lubricity.
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Yeah, I feel ya. You were working on single stage paint. This stuff likes to grip to hell and back too. I really hate how all these companies are still painting with white ss paint :( Once you knock off the "dead" surface of the paint (like you did with the SIP)...the next step usually cruises along fairly easy (like when you went to Optimum).
 
Sticky clears are now a part of Japanese cars finishes and also some aussie holdens

To stop the sticking, the clear must not be buffed at more than 1300 rpm or you must add parrafin oil to a small bottle of the polish



My mix on a recent Impreza WRX STI was 80ml FP1, 35ml Parrafin oil

The added oil and ability to buff at 1100 to 1300 with FP1 and FPII and still break it down meant that there was heaps of lubrication, no chance of hologramming and the clear was kept cool to warm, not the usual temperatures



Anyone can do the same with PO91L or SIP

Mixing it may cause SIP to lose some abrasive power (possibly) so play with the percentages until you find what works
 
It is the same stuff used in Menzerna polishes (106FF) and probably same thing as mineral oil
 
Ultrafina on a finish pad is the easiest way to finish out, since it's so "wet".



For middle steps, I really like the green german foam that CMA offers, or Edge's light cut wool pads (blue and green), and any polish but SIP.
 
SVR said:
Sticky clears are now a part of Japanese cars finishes and also some aussie holdens

To stop the sticking, the clear must not be buffed at more than 1300 rpm or you must add parrafin oil to a small bottle of the polish



My mix on a recent Impreza WRX STI was 80ml FP1, 35ml Parrafin oil

The added oil and ability to buff at 1100 to 1300 with FP1 and FPII and still break it down meant that there was heaps of lubrication, no chance of hologramming and the clear was kept cool to warm, not the usual temperatures



Anyone can do the same with PO91L or SIP

Mixing it may cause SIP to lose some abrasive power (possibly) so play with the percentages until you find what works
Click to expand...



Great advise. Look forward to trying it. I've had this happen a few times on a porsche and a few G35's.
 
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