Beater polished, G110V2 Vs. Makita rotary

[tuscarora dave]

So being layed off I am already starting to get really bored. Sitting still just isn’t my thing so I decided to tinker around with my roommate’s Hoop-D-wagon. It is a 1988 Plymouth Caravelle he just got for $500. He asked me about “us” polishing it up to make it look a little better. Today I went out and did 2 test spots. This car had been sitting under trees for who knows how long.

First I washed the left side of the hood with PB APC,
Clayed it with Clay Magic Red and APC as lube
I used my new Meg’s G110V2 on the left side of the hood and my Makita rotary on the right side of the hood
I used a 6” yellow Edge 2K cutting pad and M-105
6” Green Edge 2K light cutting pad and PB SSR2
6” white Edge 2K finish pad and PB SSR 1
Hand applied PB EXP followed be a Hand applied coat of Natty’s red

On the right side I used the Makita Rotary
Clayed the same as other side
6” Edge 2K medium wool cutting pad and M-105
6” Edge 2K green light cutting foam pad and M-105
6” Edge 2K green light cutting foam pad and PB SSR 2
6” Edge 2K white finish pad and PB SSR1
Last polish step with DA 6” Edge 2K white finish pad and PB PWS
Finally topped that with a coating of Natty’s red. This is a single stage paint so it didn’t shine up very glossy. In fact I thought the side done with the rotary would be more glossy but it really wasn’t.

Here’s 3 pics all with the flash on and the camera facing down about 12 inches above the paint
The first is before I polished but after claying , the 2nd is the left side done with DA and the last is the right side done with the rotary, As I said I was just screwing around but thought that maybe some newbies could get something out of the thread. Thanks , TD

 

[(901)]

I had 1 of those cars once. Everytime you would hit a mudpuddle the distributor would get wet and kill the engine :wow:

Great job Dave. She looks much bettter now :bigups

 

[Poorboy]

Hey Dave, is this the same room mate that gave you a dent? :huh:

Back to the car ... one reason the shine wasn't coming back was the products used ... that color in single stage has a lot of aluminum in the paint which oxidized the paint from the inside out to put it simply. Professional Polish would have been the product of choice for me.
Having done way too many of single stage paints over the years, any of the silvers or metallic paints (pre-clear), needed a different approach than solid colors. go try a small spot and see the difference

 

[occupant]

That does help me a lot. I really like polishing turds. And seeing results like this on the typical $100-$500 beaters that I plan to line my car lot with is very promising. So PB, an older metallic should use PP? What else?

 

[Poorboy]

That does help me a lot. I really like polishing turds. And seeing results like this on the typical $100-$500 beaters that I plan to line my car lot with is very promising. So PB, an older metallic should use PP? What else?

well you do need to be careful as you can discover an even worse paint job under the haze and oxidation using the PP. Often you will find paint crazing and spots where the paint has just plain worn out and you will not get an even shine ... for $100-$500 beaters, it is sometimes better to do a very light Polish with something like PwC or PwS to give just a little shine

 

[cartoysautospa]

poor boy is correct in regards to single stage metallic paints. they tend to get heavily oxidized. don't be afraid to use a aggressive compound in removing the oxidation.however using aggressive compounds may cause the paint to flash .then you have a much larger problem.
I always buff these kind of cars wet. the water mist on the surface provides a barrier between the compound.resulting in no flash of the paint. secondly it will allow you to work the compound into the paint more.........giving a deeper cleaning of the paint. So when you follow up with your green pad and lighter compounds you will have a much deeper gloss.

 

[tuscarora dave]

Hey Dave, is this the same room mate that gave you a dent? :huh:

Back to the car ... one reason the shine wasn't coming back was the products used ... that color in single stage has a lot of aluminum in the paint which oxidized the paint from the inside out to put it simply. Professional Polish would have been the product of choice for me.
Having done way too many of single stage paints over the years, any of the silvers or metallic paints (pre-clear), needed a different approach than solid colors. go try a small spot and see the difference

Yup, same room mate. I have learned to forgive.It makes my life a lot simpler. Thanks for the advice. See one can learn something even in polishing and posting a turd. I am actually surprised this thread got any replies at all. Cool