Badly Faded Red Paint..

I got a '93 S10 with the factory red paint, every S10 i have ever seen with factory paint is flat. Im just wondering i been bringing alot of it out with Mequiars #9 Swirl Remover which ive always had really good results using it on reds and blacks. But after using it by hand it gets shinny but still has a hazzy look to it? What do you guys recommend using on it? I know its not gonna come out perfect. :buffing:
 
well if it has oxitation I love to start with Klasse AIO

it just eats the the stuff



then the polish of you choice



do you have a pc or are you doing it by hand?
 
AllShineNoPrime said:
...'93 S10 with the factory red paint...Mequiars #9 Swirl Remover...after using it by hand it gets shinny but still has a hazzy look to it...



The factory paint on those was single stage. The M09 doesn't usually have enough cut to remove oxidation. Most likely, what you've done is remove some of the old paint and you see a bit more clarity from that. The oils in M09 then soak into the remaining paint to help it shine.



BigJim is right...use some kind of chemical cleaner to remove that oxidation. Next would be some polishing to get the marks out and gloss back.
 
I got mad at it, took some mean green and soaked the fender down, it made it look just like i sprayed flat red on it and the yellow towel i was using afterwards was red. So i basically got it down to a better looking part of the paint. When i got the truck were they tryed waxing it it had compound all over it and streaks which looked like ****.
 
use AIO or a good cleaner wax

then use a solid polish like optimum compound

then use a finer polish like optimum polish

then wax of choice
 
Based on the content to date, I'm surprised to see this in the "Professional Forum".



AIO and Scratch X are fine products, but not a Pro's choice...



That 14 year old truck wants a professional evaluation, because the oxidation is only part of the probem. The dull paint is masking 14 years of swirling and scratching.



I know its not gonna come out perfect.



Betcha I could make a dramatic (showcar) difference. I have on similiar s/s paints.



PM me



Good Luck!



Jim
 
I don't understand why everyone always uses AIO for oxidation before compounding, and finer polishing. Won't they compounding and further polishing do as much/more than AIO? I've never tried AIO on heavily oxidized surfaces, but seen it in action so I can't really comment on what works better, but you tell me.
 
Shaun Carollo said:
I don't understand why everyone always uses AIO for oxidation before compounding, and finer polishing. Won't they compounding and further polishing do as much/more than AIO? I've never tried AIO on heavily oxidized surfaces, but seen it in action so I can't really comment on what works better, but you tell me.



I like AIO first because it just eats the oxidation and I can usually

clear up an oxidized car with one pad(for the AIO +cut/polish pads)



if I start with a cutting pad and compound the pads gumm up quickly

and it takes it toll on the pads, and I need to clean them or use a few per car



so the short answer is it's quicker for me

and I think easier on my pads



but that's me to each there own!
 
BigJimZ28 said:
If I start with a cutting pad and compound the pads gumm up quickly

and it takes it toll on the pads, and I need to clean them or use a few per car



This is the same reasoning I've heard from many people.



While I'm not an AIO user, I will often start with a terry towel and some kind of cleaner if the finish is host to copious amounts of oxidized paint. It does help keep pad gumming down, though SS usually requires a few pads (for me, anyway) if I'm doing some polishing.
 
IMHO, the reformulated AIO (VOC compliant) does not have nearly the cleaning ability as in the past. The petroleum distillates did most of the cleaning, and also likely caused most of the VOC problems.



Me, I'd just buff it. We do just enough red S/S cars to have some previously stained pads around, so... :)



Jim
 
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