Auto Fanatic Foaming Wheel Cleaner - what says you?

I actually think I`ll try it after your recommendation, prior to this thread all I`ve seen is the owner saying it`s the best. And PAAAAAAAAN saying it`s so great. I have invested thousands in detailing products that weren`t that good. I was just a bit suspicious about this one because nobody talks about it.

I think people aren`t talking about it because it`s rather expensive. I`d rather be able to buy a gallon of Brake Buster and use it at 1oz BB to 10oz H2O and produce ten total gallons of product versus the 4oz to 6oz/gallon AF WCF and only yield four gallons. Also consider the "shock" factor of buying 16oz of product for $30 versus $24 for 1 gallon, it is a numbers/mental thing.
 
I think people aren`t talking about it because it`s rather expensive. I`d rather be able to buy a gallon of Brake Buster and use it at 1oz BB to 10oz H2O and produce ten total gallons of product versus the 4oz to 6oz/gallon AF WCF and only yield four gallons. Also consider the "shock" factor of buying 16oz of product for $30 versus $24 for 1 gallon, it is a numbers/mental thing.

Break buster for me was basically like using my my car soap, except that uses 20ml per bucket of water. And we`re talking about detailers here, how many of us buy Polish Angel or Kamikaze? I wiped polish off my car last time I polished it with $15 Polish Angel towels. I know I`m not the only one, and I know a lot of people on here put me to shame with how much they spend lol. Why aren`t the high end detail geeks talking about this product? Even if it`s to say they dislike it.
 
Haven’t seen Klasse act in a while but he got it and likes it but likes BB too. Maybe PM him to see what he thinks but I don’t think he’d be a good source on deep cleaning power as he washes wheels at least once a week


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Well...it`s not a given that a consumer can get an SDS, as we have been through here with PBMG`s house brands...a consumer can NOT get an SDS. Apparently they supply them to business account holders because they have to (OSHA requirements). A little different than say, Duragloss, Meguiar`s, or Optimum, who have their SDS`s on their websites.



Um...the pH scale only goes up to 14. According to the SDS the pH is 6.3-7. Interestingly, they list 2-Butoxyethanol, which is a common ingredient in cleaners, as a confirmed animal carcinogen, and that the thioglycol component is a dermal sensitizer: https://www.meguiars.com/sites/default/files/pdf/D1801 SDS.pdf

To quote Renny Doyle "if it`s on you, it`s in you" which is why I try to wear nitrile gloves a lot in situations where I didn`t when I was younger and dumber.

Sorry my bad I mixed it up with D143 SDS. I think that`s the one called non acid wheel cleaner?
Yeah it`s what I meant that we consumers can not always get it. But here in Sweden they have stopped more and more to make they public too. If you ask for it as a consumer they do send it to you. And honestly the most is not for getting hold of what`s in the product but more for safety. If a brand don`t give out the SDS to the reseller they got a problem. I think that at least on who ever you are and ask about a SDS you should get it. There no reason to not let it out than that hide their products is very hazardious chemicals to use or why would they do that. And it`s not a secret paper or so LOL. Then it`s a little strange since we have detailers with their own businesses that can get them if they want to. And what I know of it`s not against anything to share the information about the SDS. Even putting up screenshots of parts of it but maybe not the whole thing. OSHA seems not to be doing much of control of the SDS or how they are doing with it. I mean some things you can get out of these that can be very important if an accident happens or how some chemicals is in the long time use and so on.

I also always use nitrile gloves and if doing long work with them also switch them out to new ones once and a while. That`s also an information that`s in the SDS how long the penetration time is before the nitrile gloves gets useless and leaks through them. And with certain chemicals in a product you may need another kind of material in the gloves for protection. Now it`s unusual in the detailing products but you don`t know if you can not see what hazardious chemicals that you are useing. The non hazardious chemicals they don`t need to be putting in the SDS or when it`s under a certain level of the amount of the product they don`t need to be putting it in either.

Yeah I also thought that the ph level is up to ph14. But look at the D143 SDS and see. This can be a typo as they could counted the chemicals together in the product and if the ph level had worked so it goes over ph14 this 14.5-15.5 is what it would be or something. And that`s also something that you can see strange things with and it can be wrong in the SDS on many products. As it`s less controlled than you would think and it`s not a US thing either but around the world sadly.
 
Yeah I also thought that the ph level is up to ph14. But look at the D143 SDS and see. This can be a typo as they could counted the chemicals together in the product and if the ph level had worked so it goes over ph14 this 14.5-15.5 is what it would be or something. And that`s also something that you can see strange things with and it can be wrong in the SDS on many products. As it`s less controlled than you would think and it`s not a US thing either but around the world sadly.

Ha ha, I see that.
 
Yeah sorry guys I mixed up the products. So use Meguiars Wheel & Iron Decon D1801 with no problems and actually I would recommend you to use this as a wheel cleaner. As many so called non acid wheel cleaners has a very high ph level in general. So I even think that it`s safer to use an acid based wheel cleaner that`s not so acidic on the ph level like Meguiars Wheel Brightener D140 is not that bad on the acidic ph level. Heck if you just go by the ph level the D140 is less acidic than Duragloss Aquawax for an example LOL. But use it material that can handle acids of cause. It where the Meguiars Non Acid Wheel Cleaner that has an extreme high alkaline ph level. And IMO that when you are up and down to the extreme levels of the ph level scale you should treat these chemicals very carefully when useing them. Useing them as the directions says and where the proper safety equipment they are fine to use. Then it`s not just the ph level that makes chemicals hazardious. It`s the chemicals used in them that does that and how you safely use them with your personal equipment is written up in the SDS.

Sorry for the off topic. Would be very interesting to hear more experiences with the AF Foaming Wheel Cleaner.
 
Today I tried the Auto Fanatic Wheel Cleaning Foam for the first time. I mixed 12 oz into 1 gal of water (Strong Dilution) and filled the IK Pro 2 foamer. I sprayed all 4 wheels with a very nice foam. First thing I noticed is that its odorless and the brake dust did start to flow off the wheels. The wheels have no wax, sealants or coatings on them and they haven`t been washed in about a month. I started with the rear wheels and used my brushes and cleaned the rim and tires and rinsed off the wheels with a garden hose. (no pressure washer) and they came out clean. I`m impressed. Next time I will try using a MTM Foam cannon instead of the IK pump foamer.

After I cleaned the wheels I applied the 007 Gloss Enhancer onto the rims and it left a nice slick glossy finish. So far I`m very impressed with the two products and I will continue to test the two products on my vehicles.

Anyone else try the product?
 
I have a bottle I bought last year. I haven’t used it yet. Mostly because I’ve been on a P&S BB kick due to price vs. performance. I’ll give it a shot soon and report back.
 
Phil over at Auto Fanatic is a great guy and a true car nut. His entire goal was to create a product line that was effective on both rims and tires, uses top quality base materials, and doesn't affect the finish. He uses the Collinite Marque d'Elegance wax exclusively on his vehicles along with Chemical Guys V07 Hybrid Paint Sealant as his drying aid. He states that he wanted to use organic materials in order to create a safe but effective product line. I'm not chemist and I don't tout to know the first thing about blending chemicals and how all that behind the scenes stuff works. I also have never used a ceramic coating on my own vehicles other than if it says it has ceramic in a detailer or a paste wax. I also have been using Collinite products for well over 30 years and have been detailing for 45 years. Personally I only use the PH neutral products on my own rims. I do use a strong wheel cleaner whenever I am doing a full decontamination wash and want to strip off any protection I have on the rims but I would also always follow that with reapplication of the protection. When you have a weekly maintained or even bi-weekly maintained vehicle, you don't need any caustic super high and super low PH chemicals to clean your wheels or you are just going to strip off anything you might have on your wheel as a protection product whether that be a wax, sealant, spray and rinse sealant, or they can even start breaking down ceramic coatings as well. If you use the caustic stuff over and over again and you have a ceramic coating, that coating will eventually be degraded significantly. Of course I am not trying to insult anybody's intelligence here as if you are detailing your vehicles or are an enthusiast you probably know this already. Some people use a spray and rinse sealant on their rims after every wash so it may be a moot point in those situations anyway. But why take a chance on etching or staining your rims. Not all rims are the same. Different finishes, different paint compositions, thinner paint, thicker paint, there are a hundred different variables when it comes to rims. Some mention that the PH neutral products are ineffective. I differ in opinion on that subject only because I have been detailing for a very long time. I've spent thousands of dollars (I could probably buy a brand new Toyota Supra for the money i've spent in crap detailing products over the years). I used Collinite Super Double Coat wax on my paint and rims for many years (and I still use Collinite to this very day) and it provided very good protection against chemicals. I now use Fusso Coat on my rims and it's even better than the Collinite Super Double Coat and gives very good chemical resistance and resistance to road salt in the winter time, road grime, etc. I have used P21S (and their S100 line which is the same thing but much cheaper) with great results although the PH is a little higher than neutral. Griot's Garage original (blue) is a good cleaner that is pH neutral. And finally (I almost hate to say it) Chemical Guys Diablo Wheel Gel. Diablo is my current favorite and is a ph neutral soap/surfactant based wheel cleaner. Honestly, just plain soap works quite often when you have well maintained wheels. I usually spritz on my wheel cleaner first to loosen up the surface dirt and then use my brushes for agitation. Rinse and they look great. I will top off the rims protection with Turtle Wax Seal & Shine which is another product that is cheap and IT WORKS. It has a very strong resistance to chemicals and the various forms of road debris and brake dust that might accumulate between my maintenance washes. And it is so easy to apply, just a mist and wipe it away! What I really like about Auto Fanatic's channel is that he uses the basics. No fancy ceramic coatings (Although I have seen him use a coating on his rims on occasion through his YouTube channel). He shows that with the basics you can have an awesome looking automobile. His paint finish looks like a mirror or glass. Super glossy. He loves gloss and the system he uses gives incredible gloss and protection. He's also a fan of using a mitt on a stick (again for efficiency). It's not everybody's game using a mitt on a stick, but I tried it, and I am doing the same thing on the top parts of my vehicles just to make it way easier to reach. I use a good quality wash pad on the rest of it because I just like the ability to move the pad into the tight spaces a little easier than the stick although the stick is great on the entire car also. After all these years of using every product under the sun, and being suckered by watching far too many YouTubers myself, I have reverted back to the basics. Using a great quality wax (Collinite,Fusso, and I really like the new Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Graphene Paste wax which exhibits incredible gloss!), or combination of waxes, and then maintaining the finish with an inexpensive sealant like Technicians Choice which just adds more to the gloss and also the hydrophobics which are off the charts. Very resistant to chemicals as well. Maybe not as strong or as hard of a product as a ceramic coating, but it works for me. Phil is a thinker. He comes up with all sorts of ways to increase your efficiency when detailing. There are few detailers in this world that are as precise as Phil when it comes to doing a historic restoration of an exotic car. He has vast knowledge in proper restoration techniques using original parts and restoring parts that can't be sourced. Sure, he wants to sell products, it's his business, but he's not going to sell a crap product. Of course these are only my opinions based on my own detailing knowledge and experience. I say, use what works the best for you. If you like using the caustic high PH or super low acidic products, that's cool. Use whatever system works for you. Detailing is supposed to be fun and therapeutic! Just don't get sucked into the "hype" machine. You will go broke for sure. There are just too many new companies starting up. I know at least 15 detailers on YouTube that started out reviewing products years ago only to now have their own "exclusive" line which they tout as being the absolute best and better than the guy or gal standing next to them. There are thousands of great products out there. THOUSANDS. Just find a great system for you, using products you love, and you will have a happy detailing experience. Happy motoring all! And may the GLOSS be with you!
 
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