Assorted Questions DCAP, #82, #80, VM ...

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petraidm

New member
OK I've done the search, read until my eyes are bleary annd still have some open questions.



Background: I am a weekend warrior with a PC and Sonus DAS pads. I would like to limit this discussion to DCAP #82, #80, SSR2.5, SSR1, #9 and VM. I have three vehicles: Black, light metallic blue, and white crystal pearl. The LSP I will use is EX (on the black car) and EX-P on ther others. I know I should use the least agressive approach and these questions are for future referenece. I've got too many products sitting on my shelf rigt now (thanks to this board) and I want to narrow down my main arsenal and work on perfecting my prep techniques before I start my own LSP comparison and experimentation with toppers.



Questions:

1.I've read people recommend #82, #80 and #9 after DCAP (I've used #9) with the same folks recommending differnent products depending on the post.

a. Are #82 and and #9 similar? What are the differences? When would I use one over the other?

b. What is the differnece between #82 and #80 (besides #82 being an SFP and #80 being a glaze)? When would I use one vs. the other?

c. Is following #82 with #80 (or vice versa) overkill? If not when would you do this?



2. What are the differences between VM and #80? Would you use VM after #82 or #9? Would you use VM after #80?



3. Please confirm that SSR2.5, SSR1, VM, LSP would be a good alternate to the Mequiars steps.



4. For normal finish maintenance I will just use the LSP or an AIO, VM, LSP combo depending condition ... Any other recommendations
 
petraidm said:
1.I've read people recommend #82, #80 and #9 after DCAP (I've used #9) with the same folks recommending differnent products depending on the post.
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Sometimes the #82/#9 won't be aggressive enough.





a. Are #82 and and #9 similar? What are the differences? When would I use one over the other?
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#82 is basically the made-for-clearcoats version of #9. Slightly more aggressive (not much) and slightly more consistent abrasives (IIRC, again, not a big deal).



b. What is the differnece between #82 and #80 (besides #82 being an SFP and #80 being a glaze)? When would I use one vs. the other?
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Don't put much weight on Meg's calling #80 a "glaze". #80 is more aggressive (by quite a bit) and includes some minor fresh-paint-safe polymer protection (hence the "glaze" bit). Use #80 when you need more cut than #82 and/or when you want to protect fresh paint (a little bit).



c. Is following #82 with #80 (or vice versa) overkill? If not when would you do this?
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Yeah, it *would* be #80 first then #82, but there's *usually* no need to do it as #80 will *usually* leave a ready to wax finish. In the rare cases when #80 leaves marring (usually only in very soft paint), then yeah, use the #82 to fix it.



2. What are the differences between VM and #80? Would you use VM after #82 or #9? Would you use VM after #80?
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VM is *very, very* mild abrasive-wise, even more so than #9/#82, *much* milder than #80. VM contains wax. You could use it after any of the Meg's products but get it pretty close to ready-to-wax first.



3. Please confirm that SSR2.5, SSR1, VM, LSP would be a good alternate to the Mequiars steps.
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Don't use PB's stuff but yeah, that oughta work.



4. For normal finish maintenance I will just use the LSP or an AIO, VM, LSP combo depending condition ... Any other recommendations
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I'd choose between AIO and VM rather than using both. I generally just spot clay (very gently) and refresh the LSP rather than using AIO/VM/etc. You can only do this for so long, however.
 
petraidm - VM by hand or at speed 4 with a polishing pad. #80 at speed 5-6 with a polishing pad. I seldom bother starting slow and speeding up. I just do it at the fastest speed I can use without "flashing" the product too fast. The PC is so gentle anyway....



I pretty much w-o-w-o the VM, I don't expect it to do much cleaning let alone correction (do that with other products first). I work the #80 until it's clear (or sometimes pink), repeating the process until it either removes the marring I'm working on or I give up and use another product.
 
Honestly, I don't even use #82 or #9 anymore since I started using #80. DACP > #80 > LSP works great. You can toss in VM or AIO after #80 but since it finishes off so nice, I normally just go to my LSP unless I am doing a multi-step show prep job or detailing for someone who is willing to pay for a 3-5 step polishing process.



I apply DACP and #80 with a polishing pad, starting with the speed on 5 for a few moderate speed passes, then crank it up to 6 for a couple real slow passes to clear out the product. If either one does not wipe off pretty easily, you didn't work it long enough.



VM/AIO I use a polishing pad and a speed of 5 or 6 and make 3-4 slow to moderate speed passes.



Just FYI, I detailed a black 740 today using DACP, #80 and finishing Poorboy's EX w/carnauba. Even before waxing, the customer was stunned out how deep and "rich" the paint looked.



Once you really polish your paint out well with DACP and #80, then you can maintain it with AIO or VM and your LSP.
 
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