Assistance w/PM from forum member on Makita 9227

JCastro1085 said:
I completely understand his point, but I was only looking for advice/opinions. I think its ridiculous for someone to mess up their paint after they've been warned and expect someone else to pay for it. That's like Barry giving me advice and I mess up my 300M and now I expect Presidential Details to pay for the damage, are you kidding me? People use your common sense! I guess there really are some crazy people out there! I would hope he realized that I was responsible enough to wait until I had a beater before even attempting to use a rotary.
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As most of us understand your point here....if you think of it this way...A) there's that quote about umm there's no such thing as idiot proof because they keep making better idiots?...(or something along those lines)



and though I can't say I agree with him I can certainly understand where he comes from =] I mean...after all..people sue McDonalds because they didn't have the common sense to put the super sized #1 down and pickup a pair of running shoes...
 
JCastro1085 said:
Still wondering about the wool and how it performs/reacts when used on the rotary? How does it compare to the foam pads?
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Well my rotary experience comes from using a vector...and from what I remember the wool was different... for instance if memory serves the difference in pull seemed a bit more drastic on the wool when you had too much or too little product than it did with foam...



and I think i remember conflicting advice about wool it terms of heat (i think someone said that it's cooler cause of natural fibers..but other say it actually causes more?) but from what I can tell, the wool seemed to cut faster than the wool (I decided to see what a wool could do to pain on a pos camry and umm... i think clear was gone in 2.5ish seconds)



But to be taken with a grain of salt-haven't touched my vector rotary in umm....2 years?
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
As most of us understand your point here....if you think of it this way...A) there's that quote about umm there's no such thing as idiot proof because they keep making better idiots?...(or something along those lines)



and though I can't say I agree with him I can certainly understand where he comes from =] I mean...after all..people sue McDonalds because they didn't have the common sense to put the super sized #1 down and pickup a pair of running shoes...
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Yeah I get ya, and for the quote I know exactly which one you're talking about as I like it myself "Every time someone builds something idiot proof, they build a better idiot" something like that.



Alexshimshimhae said:
Well my rotary experience comes from using a vector...and from what I remember the wool was different... for instance if memory serves the difference in pull seemed a bit more drastic on the wool when you had too much or too little product than it did with foam...



and I think i remember conflicting advice about wool it terms of heat (i think someone said that it's cooler cause of natural fibers..but other say it actually causes more?) but from what I can tell, the wool seemed to cut faster than the wool (I decided to see what a wool could do to pain on a pos camry and umm... i think clear was gone in 2.5ish seconds)
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Huh? Lol



IIRC Barry once told me the wool (I believe) runs cooler but does cut more? This pull you're referring too, is it more or less when using the wool? I know I had a hard time learning to control the rotary with the foam at first, it's gotten easier but not that easy. I really hope it doesn't pull more when using a wool pad.



Is it possible to use a wool pad and leave no traces of swirls or halograms? I remember someone once told me when you use wool, it induces its own set of swirls, so it kind of defeats the purpose of using it if you're going to correct them in the first place (unless you're trying to remove oxidation) right?
 
oof sorry the wool seems to cut faster than foam (sorry I been spending the last few weeks looking at income statements and amortization schedules.. my brain is a bit spent)



Ummm..I think in terms of pull there's more of a difference...say on the foam when it pulls say from 0-1lb resistance...it seems on the wool it *could* jerk harder? (DEFINITELY keep in mind that ummm...well I had no clue as to what I was doing using that rotary at the time and even after I *kind* of got the hang of it...I stopped using it ... for like 2 years)



I think if you can manage the foam though...you can handle the wool, I would just play with it a bit because as the wools get used...I remember it seemed to be a bit more fussy depending on how messed up the car was and how much product i was using...



I don't think it's possible for you to 1 step with wool if that's what you're asking...wool AFAIK is meant for heavy duty jobs...so I mean I don't know what type of work you're running into--but honestly I have yet to have a need for it--and I worked on a tunnel wash nightmare S550...though it wouldn't hurt to have it JUST IN CASE (marines always come prepared right?)
 
Nice work on that chrysler JCastro. Nothing finishes down like a rotary. It take some time and a lot of attention to detail, but the gloss is definitely better than any D.A. polisher.
 
JohnKleven said:
Nice work on that chrysler JCastro. Nothing finishes down like a rotary. It take some time and a lot of attention to detail, but the gloss is definitely better than any D.A. polisher.
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Agreed. IME, using a 106FA or 85RD AFTER the paint is corrected flawlessly makes a HUGE difference in terms of clarity and gloss.
 
Got_Leather said:
Agreed. IME, using a 106FA or 85RD AFTER the paint is corrected flawlessly makes a HUGE difference in terms of clarity and gloss.
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Ahh so thats the ticket? Instead of using Meg's #26 I'll substitute it to for 106FA or 85RD. (I've heard a lot of good comments on the second choice)



JohnKleven said:
Nice work on that chrysler JCastro. Nothing finishes down like a rotary. It take some time and a lot of attention to detail, but the gloss is definitely better than any D.A. polisher.
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Thanks, I appreciate the compliment, especially it coming from someone who *specializes* in black! I must admit, your slogan did come to mind when I was compounding today. After I saw these results I understand why you have repeat customers because black flawless truly is sexy! ATD is something am very good at



Alexshimshimhae said:
Ummm..I think in terms of pull there's more of a difference...say on the foam when it pulls say from 0-1lb resistance...it seems on the wool it *could* jerk harder? (DEFINITELY keep in mind that ummm...well I had no clue as to what I was doing using that rotary at the time and even after I *kind* of got the hang of it...I stopped using it ... for like 2 years)
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Lol at how bluntly you put it lol! And am just working on my vehicle and friends/family, not looking to go Pro or anything. I mainly use this to take my mind off stuff, sort of a stress reliever.



Alexshimshimhae said:
I don't think it's possible for you to 1 step with wool if that's what you're asking...wool AFAIK is meant for heavy duty jobs...so I mean I don't know what type of work you're running into--but honestly I have yet to have a need for it--and I worked on a tunnel wash nightmare S550...though it wouldn't hurt to have it JUST IN CASE (marines always come prepared right?)
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Roger that, its like the old saying: "I'd rather have it and not need it.....then to need it and not have it" :hifive:



Once again Gentleman thanks for all your input as without it, I probably wouldn't have tried the rotary on my vehicle, just the beater. I'm glad I did though as I achieved satisfying results, pics will be posted tomorrow. I have to admit after 2 layers of Meg's #26 the car is outside gleaming right now lol :thx :getdown
 
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