Are Waxes & Sealants Even Needed?

David Fermani

David Fermani

Forza Auto Salon
Is wax or sealants even necessary with today?s modern clearcoats? If so, how?

Are they adding longevity to its composition? Hence feeding, coating, sealing?

Are they eliminating UV rays from fading the basecoat?

Are they eliminating acids from rain, birds and insects from etching the clearcoat?

Do they create a sacrificial barrier that eliminates surface marring due to slickness? Even though initial slickness falls off almost initially after the 1st few washes, does that mean this so-called protective characteristic has diminished too?

Is beading indicative of protection? If so at what capacity?

Is the silicone content in LSP?s, (which is what?s really responsible for this attribute enthusiasts cherish/envy/idolize so much that creates a vehicle to bead and sheet water) add any benefit to the longevity of paint?


Thought:
If you split up a daily driven vehicle into ??s where 1 side was LSP?d every 4 months for 10 years & the other half was lightly polished at the same interval with a non-abrasive finishing polish coupled with a non-abrasive finishing pad (i.e. jewelling) which side would be better preserved over the long term? No matter how well refined your wash regiment is, you?re still instilling a measureable (not seen by the naked eye mind you) amount of super micro-marring that?s slowly depleting the appearance of the gloss. The LSP?d side will never correct this super ultra fine micro-marring, thus snowballing the hazing effect, where the regularly polished side will be regularly correcting it. I?m sure at this point in your reading you?re saying to yourself that every time you polish the surface you?re thinning the thickness of the clearcoat, right? But are you, and how much? I?d be willing to say that this non-abrasive practice that?s being done 40 times over the course of the comparison *might* remove less than 5 microns (not mils) of film build? Doing the math and acknowledging the thought that many vehicle manufactures don?t recommend removing any more than ~.5 mils(12.7 microns) of clear before *possible* detrimental UV exposure *could* occur, there?s still tons of clear left to still be on the ?safe? side. The upside of this comparison is that the polished finish will look totally better than the just LSP?d side.

Which would you rather have?
 
Okay, I am by no means a pro or expert but I will try and contribute what I know here.


As my knowledge goes, the wax you lay down is protecting your paint from the elements, rain for example. This wax you put down slickens the surface preventing the rain to sit on the clear coat and etch into the paint.

Are they eliminating UV rays from fading the basecoat?

This is my understanding. Like stated above it is leaving behind a layer of protection before you paint.

Are they eliminating acids from rain, birds and insects from etching the clearcoat?


You sate that the slickness wears off after a few washes. This can be debatable depending on what you use. Some sealants or waxes will last much longer. For example in my using a carnuba will look better but not outlast a synthetic. But since I wax more often than others it doesnt make a difference in lasting ability. Ill explain some more below.


David Fermani said:
Thought:
If you split up a daily driven vehicle into ??s where 1 side was LSP?d every 4 months for 10 years & the other half was lightly polished at the same interval with a non-abrasive finishing polish coupled with a non-abrasive finishing pad (i.e. jewelling) which side would be better preserved over the long term? No matter how well refined your wash regiment is, you?re still instilling a measureable (not seen by the naked eye mind you) amount of super micro-marring that?s slowly depleting the appearance of the gloss. The LSP?d side will never correct this super ultra fine micro-marring, thus snowballing the hazing effect, where the regularly polished side will be regularly correcting it. I?m sure at this point in your reading you?re saying to yourself that every time you polish the surface you?re thinning the thickness of the clearcoat, right? But are you, and how much? I?d be willing to say that this non-abrasive practice that?s being done 40 times over the course of the comparison *might* remove less than 5 microns (not mils) of film build? Doing the math and acknowledging the thought that many vehicle manufactures don?t recommend removing any more than ~.5 mils(12.7 microns) of clear before *possible* detrimental UV exposure *could* occur, there?s still tons of clear left to still be on the ?safe? side. The upside of this comparison is that the polished finish will look totally better than the just LSP?d side.

Which would you rather have?
Click to expand...

To me if you have a perfect finish and wax one side the waxed side for one will look much better. Like I said I believe that this will protect it from the elements. Think of it this way. Why are you treating the clear coat different that other paints? With single stage you are removing paint like with clear coat but you only see the paint of the single stage because there is no clear. The waxed side will look better. With the continous polishing I would think that with some paint being so thin you risk running into clear coat failure. Im not sure if this makes any sense so Ill just stop for now :D
 
Hey Dave, you may be on to something. So how bout sending me all those waxes and sealants you don't need. I'll find a use for them somehow!
 
Hey Dave,

Clear coats provide a small layer of protection for the paint and give the paint a brillant coler and shine. However, just like your skin protects you, the clear coat protects the paint. OK, if your out in the bright sun the UV rays will burn your skin, right, unless you put on SPF 15, 30, or 45 to protect your skin you burn. Well wax or paint sealant is like putting on sun screen. Your paint in the hot sun can generate a temperature of over 200 degrees depending where you live in the US. The wax or paint sealant protects your paint from fading or cracking etc from the harsh rays.

Same goes to claying your paint. As you drive on the road your vehicle tires pickup and throw onto your paint contaminates (you can feel them after washing and drying your vehicle, if the paint feels rough or textured then you have contaminates) if these contaminates go unchecked they work thrie way through the clear coat and paint and begin rusting the metal under the paint. You can tell this process at work by looking at your paint. Is there any rust spots beginning to show on your paint. Well claying your paint removes these contaminates to prevent rust from forming. Again, think of clear coat like your skin, if you get a sliver under your skin don't you want to remove it before it can do any more damage.

Now granted there is a difference between you and your vehicle but if you are serious about how you or your vehicle looks your will treat your vehicle just like you treat yourself. The price you can pay if you don't treat your vehicle well it can cost hundreds or thousands of dollars (new paint job, replacing rubber sealants, tires because your side walls dried up and cracked, etc) its all up to you.
 
Yes, I need them to make the finish look better - check out any picture here of a polished only vehicle, and then after a LSP...yeah its a noticable difference in depth, reflectance, and imparts a liquidity to the paintwork.

So I would use the products even if there was no added protection.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top