Anyone use a foam lance for Iron X type decon?

N

NWS Alpine

New member
I am getting a foam lance (MTM or Autogeek) and was wondering if anyone has used Iron X (liquid or soap) mixed or straight with a foam lance to let it dissolve any contaminates while it dwells. If I have an opti-coat underneath would it be helpfull to use this as general maintenance for removing brake dust fallout sitting on top of the opti-coat on the wheels and general surface areas?
 
autoaesthetica said:
Don't waste your money on this product.
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The foam gun, or the IronX?



If you're talking about IronX, I have to admit I'm a pretty big fan of the stuff; I've seen it do some truly incredible work.
 
NWS Alpine said:
I am getting a foam lance (MTM or Autogeek) and was wondering if anyone has used Iron X (liquid or soap) mixed or straight with a foam lance to let it dissolve any contaminates while it dwells. If I have an opti-coat underneath would it be helpfull to use this as general maintenance for removing brake dust fallout sitting on top of the opti-coat on the wheels and general surface areas?
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These products arent meant to be diluted (at least that has been my experience). And to be honest, I think applying these products any other way than the recommeneded way is a waste of time and product. Might be best to stick with mild claying.
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
The foam gun, or the IronX?



If you're talking about IronX, I have to admit I'm a pretty big fan of the stuff; I've seen it do some truly incredible work.
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Sorry Charlie (lol) - I meant the IronX soap.
 
autoaesthetica said:
Sorry Charlie (lol) - I meant the IronX soap.
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Ah. Actually the soap is the one form of IronX I haven't tried, though I do have a sample of it in inventory; the regular spray and the gel are awesome though.
 
Yeah I was thinking of the soap version. This is for a general maintenance every month or two. The car will already have ABC and then opti coated. This is just to remove anything that falls on the coating. I was also looking into Wolf's Chemicals break dust cleaner which people use on the whole car (has a cleaning effect too). I think the hardest part would be getting the correct concentration. I just want to be able to touch the paint as little as possible.
 
autoaesthetica said:
Sorry Charlie (lol) - I meant the IronX soap.
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and how are you so sure about that???

it was never suppose to replace ironx. its soap with iron removers.

though ironX soapgel feel less powerful its only because of the soap ingredients, inside the mixture there is 55% iron active material. ! you dont see the effect since you dilute it, and the soap components react as a "barrier" for the iron removing.. thats why it suggest to use it neat!

though some guys did use it as snow foam with nice success over the UK.

see this post:

CarPro Iron X Soap Gel - - Detailing World -



ironx soapgel will be much improved soon.
 
AviCP said:
and how are you so sure about that???

it was never suppose to replace ironx. its soap with iron removers.

though ironX soapgel feel less powerful its only because of the soap ingredients, inside the mixture there is 55% iron active material. ! you dont see the effect since you dilute it, and the soap components react as a "barrier" for the iron removing.. thats why it suggest to use it neat!

though some guys did use it as snow foam with nice success over the UK.

see this post:

CarPro Iron X Soap Gel - - Detailing World -



ironx soapgel will be much improved soon.
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I know this because I am a professional detailer that lives in an area of severe contamination both during the warm months and worse after winters. I know this because complete success of our restorative detailing service as well as the retail products we supply people depends on full evaluation and strict aggressive testing of every single product that rolls through our doors in an effort to provide honesty-backed products to our retail customers with no regard for the potential hype behind them. Plus I know this (and people who know me know this) that there is a huge poaching type of market today in the detail supply trade so to me, strict testing and product development is very important .



We would have a huge use(safety wise) for a product like the soap gel but in our evaluations of it, it really didn't do a couple things: 1. Cleaning well 2. reaction and complete removal of imbedded ferrous contamination. Fortunately in your post you made mention as to why(which would further be amplified by the concentrate) - you state the soap components(which I take as surfactants and foaming agents) basically hinders the reactivity.



The problem with Ironx(which is worsened by the soap) is that the reactive thiols have a very hard time with complete subsurface removal. They do fine at supersurface particles and those which have barely breached the paint and oxidized.



Unfortunately application of detailing and the "theory" of product development with non professional detailers that aren't getting first hand results themselves don't always perfectly match in the severe cases of real world.



Case and point: These past 2 weeks have seen a few multiday projects in which I tested the effectiveness of IX on some moderately to severely contaminated vehicles. I performed a wax sealant stripping wash, then clayed and performed a tradtional iron removal decontamination while claybarring the vehicle to ensure a perfectly clean surface. I washed the car again and dried it. 3 applications of IronX with 6-8 minute dwell times and agitation/flush of the surface with IX with a clean brand new microfiber applicator were performed. I then rinsed again and applied IronX a final time... The result was full reactivity.... very frustrating but that begins to show me the limits of the product. It was a great indicator of contamination however did not remove the contamination completely (which is essential for success in our area of where we live). IronX is stronger than soap gel, and if IX can't do it there is no way I SG would do it.





...for the "test" style readers - I was cleaning our rinse buckets out last night and noticed some bonded iron contamination at the bottom :eek1:. Must mean something about a good ole wash soap removing "stuff".
 
I would recommend to the OP to use Iron X. Not as a foam-gun additive though as it is not an efficient use of the product.



For most people, choosing a product is binary - a yes or no situation. But paint contamination is an analogue problem with degrees of severity. You need to understand the problem before you can make a decision really. True, if you have a really contaminated vehicle, then you might need a pro to use strong chemicals on it. For most people though, with simple brakedust contamination, then Iron X or IX SG is a very effective solution and they have a very important place in maintenance routines. Especially if you have performance braking systems.



I highly recommend them and have very good results on lightly and heavily contaminated vehicles and wheels. I won't hype it and say it is a miracle product. Just in my humble opinion though, it is better than any other retail wheel cleaner in preventing a build-up of contamination on wheels and paint. Removing heavy contamination takes a little work, but there is Iron X paste which is a more concentrated form of the product for direct "hits" of the product where it is needed most.
 
I will be decontaminating the new car with auto int ABC and clay. Then polish and opti-coat. The foam lance use would be for maintenance washes for anything sitting on top of the coating.
 
Now you tell me Mike, I just used it last week with meager results. But your wrong it's not completely useless, I'm not a coffee drinker and I was just washing the car early in the morning and was feeling sleepy. One sniff of my mitt with the I SG on it and I woke right up, the odour was on my hands for half the day so I was extremely active.
 
BAMZA!! Yea it'll definitely curl some nose hairs when you need it to.



..and probably attract some ladies who recognize the smell of it from "the salon''
 
NWS Alpine said:
I will be decontaminating the new car with auto int ABC and clay. Then polish and opti-coat. The foam lance use would be for maintenance washes for anything sitting on top of the coating.
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Unless you're dealing with some very unusual situation involving extreme contamination issues, I don't think you need to worry about such stuff all that much. Especially not with OptiCoat on there.



hamza7 said:
.... One sniff of my mitt with the I SG on it and I woke right up, the odour was on my hands for half the day so I was extremely active.
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Didn't you wear gloves?
 
Accumulator said:
Unless you're dealing with some very unusual situation involving extreme contamination issues, I don't think you need to worry about such stuff all that much. Especially not with OptiCoat on there.
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ABC kit is only like $55 for the peace of mind. My car will be coming by rail from canada and who knows how long it sits at the rail yards waiting to get loaded unloaded. It's a tiny little effort to make sure nothing is sitting on the paint before I protect it with opti-coat. Plus it's white so any contamination will show.
 
NWS Alpine- Sorry, I was unclear :o I'm a big fan of ABCing new cars, I just wondered why you were considering the ongoing/periodic decon. with IronX.
 
Accumulator said:
NWS Alpine- Sorry, I was unclear :o I'm a big fan of ABCing new cars, I just wondered why you were considering the ongoing/periodic decon. with IronX.
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I was just thinking about the soap gel or wolf chemicals stuff since it's lower strength. It's a white car and at my new place I am moving to it will have to be parked outside. My office building is right near the tri-rail railway system so I tend to get some stuff on my current white car. It's an Alpine white 650i. I use opti seal now but not sure how much opti coat prevents contaminants from bonding.
 
NWS Alpine- Ah, OK...*now* I get it! Thanks for explaining it to me (sheesh, took me long enough to get it, huh?!? :o ).



I don't have enough experience with the OptiCoat to even hazard a guess at how it'll do next door to a rail line :think: While it's small consolation to *you*, at least this will be some sort of real acid-test (oops, pun!) for that coating and yeah, maybe a sorta-mild decon like this *will* be the way to go :nixweiss



Whatever happens, I'll sure be interested to hear how things go!
 
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