Any 'superior' headlight restoration products out there?

C

cptzippy

New member
Need to do the headlight restoration bit on the old Jag. Is there any differences between meg's, mother's, 3m, et al? Is there one locally available or online that is better than the rest?



TIA,

Tony
 
cptzippy said:
Need to do the headlight restoration bit on the old Jag. Is there any differences between meg's, mother's, 3m, et al? Is there one locally available or online that is better than the rest?



TIA,

Tony
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:secret You will find the difference between a paint polish and headlight polish is often times just the label and the price. Try one of the car polishes that work well for you on the headlights. You may just be surprised at how well it works. :nerd1:
 
Ben@Autopia said:
:secret You will find the difference between a paint polish and headlight polish is often times just the label and the price.
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Gotta love repackaging and creative marketing for special, separate purposes. It's a big part of the buying products side of this passion.
 
If the lights don't need wetsanding, a DA and a compound will clean them up nicely. If they do need wetsanding, then use 1500-2000 grit and rotary out the sanding marks.
 
Ok, thanks. I'll give it a try with one of my polishes. Don't have any particularly small pads but I'll figure something out.
 
Scottwax said:
If the lights don't need wetsanding, a DA and a compound will clean them up nicely. If they do need wetsanding, then use 1500-2000 grit and rotary out the sanding marks.
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I second Scottwax butI had to go all the way down to 600 grit on mine as a last resort. Then used progresive compounds like you would on paint. They look great now. don't waste you money ont he kit. Just use your detailing supplies you allready have
 
What do you plan to seal the headlights with to keep them from yellowing or oxidizing again? Traditional paint sealants and wax won't last, I know this from experience.
 
....just to give you an idea of the sort of result you can get in some cases simply by hand with a polish (Plast-X in this particular case):



BEFORE:

IMG_0340.jpg




AFTER (on driver's side. the wavy reflection is the tile roofline of my house):

IMG_0339.jpg




COMPARISON:

IMG_0341.jpg




This was on my brother-in-law's vehicle. I was working in my garage when I saw just how bad his headlamps were and I figured I would see what I could quickly do before the sun went down. I was initially going to use my buffer but I realized his car was locked (he had left with my wife to the store). I didn't want to set off the alarm so I did what I could do by hand in the short time I had. After doing the driver's side, I figured I would take some pics.



I did this about 1 1/2 years ago and he told me he has since had to reapply a polish periodically to keep them clear. ....I used Opti-Seal at the time since it was fast and easy. Personally, I would probably try a protective film like XPel after doing a proper correction if this were my vehicle. Considering it adheres to the surface and provides UV protection, I would imagine it should prevent the return of oxidation on the surface of the lens.
 
Kean said:
....just to give you an idea of the sort of result you can get in some cases simply by hand with a polish (Plast-X in this particular case):



BEFORE:

IMG_0340.jpg




AFTER (on driver's side. the wavy reflection is the tile roofline of my house):

IMG_0339.jpg




COMPARISON:

IMG_0341.jpg




This was on my brother-in-law's vehicle. I was working in my garage when I saw just how bad his headlamps were and I figured I would see what I could quickly do before the sun went down. I was initially going to use my buffer but I realized his car was locked (he had left with my wife to the store). I didn't want to set off the alarm so I did what I could do by hand in the short time I had. After doing the driver's side, I figured I would take some pics.



I did this about 1 1/2 years ago and he told me he has since had to reapply a polish periodically to keep them clear. ....I used Opti-Seal at the time since it was fast and easy. Personally, I would probably try a protective film like XPel after doing a proper correction if this were my vehicle. Considering it adheres to the surface and provides UV protection, I would imagine it should prevent the return of oxidation on the surface of the lens.
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How long did it take you to do that by hand? lol
 
pologuy said:
How long did it take you to do that by hand? lol
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....not more than 30-45 minutes IIRC including grabbing my camera to take pics. It was near dusk when I started. Either way, I wasn't planning on taking anymore time than that on his car. I just wanted an example of what the average Joe can do (in some cases) with just a polish and some effort by hand for another car forum I frequent.
 
pologuy said:
30-45 minutes by hand? :silenced:



I wonder if that instant stuff they are advertising on TV now really works.....
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.....not sure what you want me to say here pologuy?



Obviously, the oxidation wasn't nearly as bad as they looked. Im not saying my result in this case a

is representative of what others will achieve in their scenario. I was surprised myself that they cleared up so well.
 
The headlights on my Dakota weren't really 'headlights', more like 'things that glowed in the dark'.



I spent maybe 30 minutes with some 2500 and 3000 wet sanding and then a 105/205 pass.



P1200173.jpg




Mike
 
....although the headlamps on my wife's Forester are not oxidized, I have been contemplating wet sanding them to remove the pitting. I've brought it up before but I'm wondering if an adhesion-type protection film (like XPel) would effectively guard against oxidation of the lens once the factory UV coating has been compromised. The film is essentially glued/mated to the lens surface, so I would think the outer surface of the plastic beneath wouldn't oxidize.



....btw, I installed a set on my car when I first purchased it and was surprised at how thick they were (I can see how they would protect the lenses from impacts).
 
Do anyone try TL3000 or Sylvania Headlight Restoration Kit, is it truth about that it protect from yellowing
 
a uv cured clear coat (simialiar to cc on your car) is probably the best. main draw back is you probaly don't have the uv curing lamp(s) to properly cure it. have heard that some have had good results with automotive clear coat (never tried it). i would think some opti coat would probaly work well. since you have started down the slippy slope of detailing and maintaining you own car(s) applying some wax/sealant when every you apply it to the car should maintain the headlights just fine.
 
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