Any good tips or methods for hand waxing/polishing?
- Thread starter Bouluki
- Start date
imported_WCD
New member
That has long been discussed and argued. Personally, I use very short back and forth motions, mostly using my wrist (high school years built me up for this). 
I "box" in an area around door trim and edges and then proceed to use the above strokes while slightly overlapping as I add wax. I normally polish with a Cyclo, but when I did by hand I did it in the same manner.
Hope this helps, R Regan
I "box" in an area around door trim and edges and then proceed to use the above strokes while slightly overlapping as I add wax. I normally polish with a Cyclo, but when I did by hand I did it in the same manner.
Hope this helps, R Regan
imported_hayless
New member
Bouluki,
Being a newbie myself I can't rely on my extensive detailing knowlege but I'll tell you what I have read/learn in the last month or so.
Polishing/Waxing using circular motions, in and of itself, does not cause swirls. It depends more on the type of material, type of product, and amount of pressure used than the direction. I personally use light left-to-right motions for the sides of the vehicle and front-to-back motions for the front/back/top of the vehicle.
From what I gather (and it makes sense), using this type of motion for washing/waxing/polishing/drying reduces the chances of actually seeing scratches.
Remember when washing/waxing/polishing/drying to rotate your cloth often to ensure a clean side is always on your paint.
If I've goofed on any of this I hope some of the experts will correct me.
Joey
Being a newbie myself I can't rely on my extensive detailing knowlege but I'll tell you what I have read/learn in the last month or so.
Polishing/Waxing using circular motions, in and of itself, does not cause swirls. It depends more on the type of material, type of product, and amount of pressure used than the direction. I personally use light left-to-right motions for the sides of the vehicle and front-to-back motions for the front/back/top of the vehicle.
From what I gather (and it makes sense), using this type of motion for washing/waxing/polishing/drying reduces the chances of actually seeing scratches.
Remember when washing/waxing/polishing/drying to rotate your cloth often to ensure a clean side is always on your paint.
If I've goofed on any of this I hope some of the experts will correct me.
Joey
Sveta
New member
-----------------------Bouluki said:
I know what you mean. FWIW, there really is a lot of information here but it's found in the most unlikely places. Give it some time and you'll see what I mean. I've asked similiar questions and got few to no answers. There are many really talented people here and sometimes I think they get tired of answering the same questions over and over. I guess that's fair.
I'll try and help, but I'm not .001% the master Scottwax and others are.
Circular is a problem because if you have something gritty that got picked up in your pad or terry cloth you run the risk of making circular scratches in the surface. These show up from any angle you might be looking at them. At least straight scratches are visible from a limited number of angles. I think that's the theory. If not someone will correct me shortly, I am sure.
Sveta
New member
When using swirl removers and stronger products, using a folded terry cloth towel works best. It gives you a thick pad that puts more even pressure on the paint so you don't get surface marring, the terry cloth material helps abrade the paint so the products work faster and by refolding the towel, you always have a clean surface to put on the paint. I begin with a circular motion, then finish with a front to back motion as the product breaks down.
I use foam hand pads for glazes, waxes and sealants. Same thing, spread with a circular motion then finish front to back.
I use foam hand pads for glazes, waxes and sealants. Same thing, spread with a circular motion then finish front to back.
Sometimes you just have to know how to find things. 
I did a Titles Only search for "hand" and came up with 7 pages of stuff. A lot of them weren't about hand polishing, but some of them are. You could also be more specific and search in only one area or add more words to narrow it down. Some of the older threads in the Archives probably go into more detail, like this one:
http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12548&highlight=hand
A lot of the principles of hand polishing aren't very different than those you read about for the PC anyway. You still work a section at a time, thoroughly working the product into the paint until it starts disappearing and drying out (without actually becoming dry).
Most products products can be used by hand just fine, but sometimes you have to keep in mind and compensate for the fact that you lack the mechanical advantage of a machine.
I did a Titles Only search for "hand" and came up with 7 pages of stuff. A lot of them weren't about hand polishing, but some of them are. You could also be more specific and search in only one area or add more words to narrow it down. Some of the older threads in the Archives probably go into more detail, like this one:
http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12548&highlight=hand
A lot of the principles of hand polishing aren't very different than those you read about for the PC anyway. You still work a section at a time, thoroughly working the product into the paint until it starts disappearing and drying out (without actually becoming dry).
Most products products can be used by hand just fine, but sometimes you have to keep in mind and compensate for the fact that you lack the mechanical advantage of a machine.
foxtrapper
New member
The single most important thing imo is to use good quality products. It looks better, lasts longer and usually goes on easier.
A usefull aproach for attacking the vehicle, for me, is working panel by panel. I don't get overwhelmed or lost this way.
A usefull aproach for attacking the vehicle, for me, is working panel by panel. I don't get overwhelmed or lost this way.
Accumulator
Well-known member
bileduct said:
Actually, there are a few problems with this. And don't even try it without some kind of velcro-backed handle to hold on to. Otherwise you'll apply uneven pressure on the pad, with all kinds of undesirable consequences.
Besides that, the general problem is, I think, perhaps the OPPOSITE of what you're worried about. The terry that Scottwax suggested is MORE aggressive (cutting action-wise) than many (most?) foam pads, and that's what you WANT since you can't move at the same rate (or probably for as long) as the PC can. Compared to the folded terry towel, that big, soft (easily deformed by pressure, more so than the towel), 6.5" pad would distribute your hand-applied pressure over a larger area, lessening its effectiveness.
imported_mirrorfinishman
New member
Here are a few tips about polishing and waxing by hand.
The most important thing to remember when applying and removing polish and wax is that all cloths must be clean and remain clean at all times.
How to apply...
You can use a light weight towel that measures about 20� x 10�. You can then take it and fold it in half, turn it, then fold it in half again. The folded towel, about 5� x 5� can then be used as your polish and wax applicator. I would recommend that you slightly dampen the cloth, and put a small amount of product directly on the cloth. Not on the vehicle. Starting at the passenger side of the hood, apply the cloth to the surface and begin to use a gentle polishing motion, applying an even pressure. Do not rub too hard or apply too much pressure. As you proceed you should begin to see a change in surface texture as a result of polishing. This change in surface texture is an indication that road film and surface contaminations are beginning to be safely removed and that the surface is in fact becoming clean. Your applicator cloth should have just enough dampness to allow the cloth to glide smoothly. You will need to add polish or wax to the cloth and re-dampen as necessary to insure consistant coverage. Remember, do only one section at a time until you see how easily the polish or wax comes off. Then proceed accordingly.
How to remove...
To safely remove polish and wax you will need two clean towels. It is a good idea to fold each of the towels so that it allows for a double cushion against the surface of your vehicle. Place one towel in the palm of each hand and proceed to apply the towels to the surface. Begin removing the polish or wax with a gentle motion. Do not rub too hard or apply to much pressure in any one area. You can easily change towel surfaces by flipping from one side to the other. If the polish or wax comes off relatively easy then you can do a larger section. However, if the polish or wax is hard to remove then you will want to stay with
doing small sections at a time.
The most important thing to remember when applying and removing polish and wax is that all cloths must be clean and remain clean at all times.
How to apply...
You can use a light weight towel that measures about 20� x 10�. You can then take it and fold it in half, turn it, then fold it in half again. The folded towel, about 5� x 5� can then be used as your polish and wax applicator. I would recommend that you slightly dampen the cloth, and put a small amount of product directly on the cloth. Not on the vehicle. Starting at the passenger side of the hood, apply the cloth to the surface and begin to use a gentle polishing motion, applying an even pressure. Do not rub too hard or apply too much pressure. As you proceed you should begin to see a change in surface texture as a result of polishing. This change in surface texture is an indication that road film and surface contaminations are beginning to be safely removed and that the surface is in fact becoming clean. Your applicator cloth should have just enough dampness to allow the cloth to glide smoothly. You will need to add polish or wax to the cloth and re-dampen as necessary to insure consistant coverage. Remember, do only one section at a time until you see how easily the polish or wax comes off. Then proceed accordingly.
How to remove...
To safely remove polish and wax you will need two clean towels. It is a good idea to fold each of the towels so that it allows for a double cushion against the surface of your vehicle. Place one towel in the palm of each hand and proceed to apply the towels to the surface. Begin removing the polish or wax with a gentle motion. Do not rub too hard or apply to much pressure in any one area. You can easily change towel surfaces by flipping from one side to the other. If the polish or wax comes off relatively easy then you can do a larger section. However, if the polish or wax is hard to remove then you will want to stay with
doing small sections at a time.