another question about compound polishing

B

BMW_M

New member
I am really confused about compounds and polishes, I read autopia articles but want to know more.

Actually ist's about black metalic paints and regular maintenance:

My questions are:



1. How often can I polish the car with mild/fine compounds by hand? Will my clearcoat get thin during some time?



2. I just polished it with S17 and applied w06 wax, I wanted to pass one more time with S30+ but my store run out of stock so I need to ordered one. Anyway, results are amazing. Now, I just want maintain my paint to be in perfect condition. Just using S30 once every 6 months by hand, glazing and waxing? Is this fine process?



3. I heard however that after mild compounds paint needs to be maintaned with cleaning polishes, like Sonax. Where is the difference between cleaning polish and fine S30+ compound? What is the best option?

Somehow I believe in Scholl more than in Sonax, since Sonax is more for amateur purpose, Scholl has better reputation, and I am very pleased with it for now.



Thanks for advices guys:xyxthumbs
 
Polishing by hand? You really are not removing much clear when you are working by hand. I don't think you have anything to worry about.
 
danponjican said:
Polishing by hand? You really are not removing much clear when you are working by hand. I don't think you have anything to worry about.
Click to expand...



thanks.

I noticed that medium cut compound makes some marrings after polishing even if I use HQ 3M microfiber and cotton, but with filling glaze I make them invisible:cool:

BUT, now I removed all imperfections from paint, it's smooth like glass, is it safe to compound it again when starts to be rough on touch? or just clean it somehow before glazing and waxing.

My car is a daily driver and collect's a load of dirt on paint, I just wan't to find the best way to remove contaminate from clearcoat before waxing. Is medium cut compound good for cleaning and removing small light swirls? or should I get something less abrasive?
 
BMW-M- Sorry, not familiar with the products you mentioned.



Generally, working by hand doesn't remove much clear.



But if you use an aggressive product that leaves micromarring, you really oughta follow up with a milder one that *eliminates* said marring, rather than something that just fills it/covers it up. It'll look a whole lot better that way ;)



Only use abrasive products to remove marring, not for mere cleaning. I don't use "medium cut compounds" once in several *years* unless I get a RIDS (Random Isolated Deep Scratch).



Do the cleaning with detailing clay and/or paint cleaners. Especially the clay, it's made for that "not smooth feeling" situation and, used *properly*, the right clay won't mar/abrade your paint. Most of the time, I just use Sonus green Ultra-fine Clay before I rewax.



With proper washing (see my "Accumulator's Non-Marring Wash Technique" thread), you shouldn't have to polish more than once a year. Note that my primary dog-hauler, which gets used *hard* year-round, is a metallic black Denali XL- if I can keep *that* OK, you should be able to do the same with your BMW unless it's one of those Bimmers with stupid-soft clear, and it doesn't sound like that from what you've posted.
 
great post Acumulator, big thanks.



My problem is that I can't find decent clay here, so I need to clean paint with some polish. Scholl-concepts is great mild compound but leaves small circles and marrings, sorry to say and even manufacturer says it leaves small amount of swirls but it can be done with S30+ finishing compound. This is too much expensive products for one detailing, so I need to find some clean polish, let's say Sonax extreme 3in1, this should be proper, maybe.

Anyway, I wash my car with 2 buckets method, with wash mitt, and HQ shampoo's, very gently and carefully but after half year of regular wash, light swirls and marrings show up:hairpull

I tried loads of stuff but nothing help like medium compound, it removes them but leaves those light micromarring visible under lights. I cover them with glazes but that's not solution, cause I know they are in my clearcoat and they pisses me off. From distance car looks superb, shiny and glossy but in close inspection shows everything.

Now, I am really confused, my medium S17 removes inperfections and makes finish very good but not perfect, and makes me scary to use it again.

I need decent paint cleaner to remove ''not smooth feeling''...but choice here is awfull, except Sonax:mad:

Since I repainted the car in 2 years he doesn't have even single scratch or visible mark, I would be so happy If could just need to glaze it and wax without bothering with smoothening paint
 
Hey, BMW, to utilize the abrasives in Scholl products you have to use a buffer. You won't be able to do it successfully by hand, because the concentrated energy of a swift hand is simply not enough to break down the abrasives properly.



Buy a good (but affordable) high speed DA machine like for example the Bosch PEX400AE and everything will be all right. Safe and generates results. Where are you situated?
 
Bence said:
Hey, BMW, to utilize the abrasives in Scholl products you have to use a buffer. You won't be able to do it successfully by hand, because the concentrated energy of a swift hand is simply not enough to break down the abrasives properly.



Buy a good (but affordable) high speed DA machine like for example the Bosch PEX400AE and everything will be all right. Safe and generates results. Where are you situated?
Click to expand...



thanks man, I live in Croatia, your neighbour:bigups

I have polishing machine but bought wrong one, THE ROTARY:down

It's Einhell but I am to afraid to use it on my car
 
Croatia is a great place, man! We used to spend our holidays in Pula and Lovran in the 80s.



The rocky coast of the sea is fabulous.



And don't worry, I have an Einhell too. It's a great little machine, but it can bog down under pressure. I used it exclusively for 1.5 years with no issues.



It is cheap enough to save some money to buy a DA too. Just check the nearby Praktikers, OBIs, etc and look for an appropriate DA (eccentric sander), which has at least 3 mm pad throw, and 10.000 OPM.
 
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