Alternative to Leatherique?

V

VanityDetailing

New member
I don't have the luxury of having the 2 days required for Leatherique, for my clients' cars, but need something more... what's the word... "substantial" than the Meguiar's Gold Class Leather Cleaner/Conditioner, for a few of my regulars' cars.





Don't get me wrong, the Meg's stuff is good, but one of these cars is a '09 Lexus LS460-L, with white leather. An ink pen exploded, and leaked all over the passenger seat. I've gotten it cleaned the best I could, with a variety of products. I just have a feeling it's going to need something more than what I've got.





Any help? Thanks!
 
Lexol, or Duragloss. I use both.



Lexol cleaner cleans better than DG's cleaner imo, but DG's leather conditioner is very good & smells like leather.
 
VanityDetailing said:
I don't have the luxury of having the 2 days required for Leatherique, for my clients' cars, but need something more... what's the word... "substantial" than the Meguiar's Gold Class Leather Cleaner/Conditioner, for a few of my regulars' cars.





Don't get me wrong, the Meg's stuff is good, but one of these cars is a '09 Lexus LS460-L, with white leather. An ink pen exploded, and leaked all over the passenger seat. I've gotten it cleaned the best I could, with a variety of products. I just have a feeling it's going to need something more than what I've got.





Any help? Thanks!
Click to expand...





Here is the Alternatives for you to try it out!





Re: List of water based leather conditioners/cleaners?

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Fermani

Hi Roger! - This explanaton sounds alot like Leatherique. Any similarities?



===





You are spot-on!



Stuffing system works but first you need to sweat it out!



Setback is creating the heat in cold climate, that’s first.



Second, need to clean-off the sticky mess.



Third, anything that is stuff-in will eventually leak out, when temperature reach beyond the initial threshold!



Fourth, retard the leather the ability to breathe.



Yet it’s still one of the world best system of the 20th Century.





In the 21st Century, Hydrogen-Bonding system uses leather chemistry for ease of application with far better result.



First, it does not depend on the weather or heat or elbow strength.



Second, a low pH 3.3 Hydrator is the driving forces to relax and separates the stiff leather structure, rather than depending on winding up the windows for a sauna effect (far more risky to foul up those high-tech electronics).



If the hydrator acting as preconditions does not penetrate, simply abandon the project (save the agony time of a great hopeless expectation including cleaning up the oily, greasy messes with the stuffing system).



Third, if the leather structure is able to be hydrated, then fatliquoring will not go to waste and you can assure of its intended objective – to strengthen and soften the leather for suppleness.





Question is do we need to use detergency to remove the access fats and oils that stays on the leather finishes.



Why clean off what we pay to do the job.



Simply drive the anionic charge fats and oils in again!



How?



Create more Hydrogen-Bonding sites!



What we need is to acidify the protein leather further with a pH 3.0 acidifier rinse.



Once the acidifier is sprayed it will shift the protein fibers more Cationic (+).



Now you will see that the anionic charge oils and fats hydrogen-bond with the cationic leather fibrils (the milky fats and oils disappear) leaving the leather finish with a squeaky feel.





Better experience these phenomenal yourself first hand with available samples!





Why take the words from someone else!





Roger Koh

Leather Doctor®
 
There is no need for such a long winded process as the products do little for coated leather.



Leather does not require 'conditioning' with anything other than water.



Keep your leather clean by protecting it with a leather protector and then regular cleaning.

Adding 'conditioners' which generally contain oils and waxes will change the appearance of your leather over time as dirt will build up on the surface and cause a sheen.



Using the correct care methods and products will not alter the factory finish.



Your type of leather is 'coated' leather. This is essentially a 'painted' leather with a clear coat finish over the top. The leather may or may not be dyed through with aniline dyes prior to the finish coating.

Essentially it is this top coating that needs looking after. Cleaning is vitally important as the top coat will wear away if allowed to become dirty. Dirt on the surface will aslo become ground into the finish by constant abrassion.



'Conditioners', balms, feeds etc (traditionally oil and wax based) cannot penetrate this finish so are not worth applying - they can also leave behind residues on the finish which will only attract more dirt if allowed to remain.



A protector will make the finish easier to clean and also inhibit dye transfer etc especially on pale coloured leathers.



Leather however finished has to remain breathable and it will allow the movement of moisture back and forth (transpiration) so the use of water based cleaners and protectors will keep the leather correctly hydrated which is essentail to keeping it in good condition.



The routine for correct care should be

Protect from new (Auto Ultra Protect)

Maintain with a regular clean or maintenance product (Auto Ultra Maintain)

Deep clean with a foam cleaner once or twice a year (Auto Ultra Foam)



These steps will prolong the life of the finish on the leather and will only take a short time to use on a regular basis.



For the ink problem. Remeber ink is not a cleaning problem (especially when there is a lot of it) The ink will by now have travelled into the finish on the leather and will be harder to remove. As you have already tried cleaners the standard 5 step technical process for removing the ink will now be:



Cleaning with a foam water based cleaner like Maxi Cleaner which is stronger than regular leather cleaners: if this does not work

Clean with Alcohol Cleaner: if this does not work

Try Remover 1 which is a solvent based detergent: if this does not work

Try Remover 3 and then recolour /refinish depending on the severity of the damage that Remover 3 does.



Any of these steps may work but they should be tried in order as they get more aggressive as they move through the process. It is also important to remove as much of the ink as possible before recolouring/refinsihing as the ink may well come back through the new surface if it is not.



You can download a free care leaflet here

Leather Cleaning, Leather Care Products, Furniture Repair Restoration, provided by Leather Training & Technical
 
Quality Leather said:
but I doubt any cleaning will take care of the ink. You will probably need to have the area refinished.
Click to expand...





Ink removal with a "water-based Leather Prep" removes the majority of the ink by "Penetration, Lubrication and Suspension" if the ink has penetrated.



The last trace of the ink stain can be further "bleach" out with a Leather Bleach Cream".



Thereafter only the easier top coat need to be wiped to re protect the finish - without the need to "COLOR".



Sound Strange!



But are we now not in the 21st Century?



Technology in almost every field have progress, take advantage of the latest technology and you will see the light.





Too much talk without action.



Samples are available!



Just do it!



Then we can continue to talk!



Roger Koh

Leather Doctor®
 
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