AIO by PC.

T

thedarksyde

New member
I am gonna be putting the AIO on tonight by PC and I wanna make sure I have it right...



Blue Pad. And spray a couple shots of AIO on a pad? Right?



Speed?



Do I WIWO, or how do I remove?



Thanks.
 
Spray Eagle One Wipe & Shine on pad to "prime" it, 2 full spritzes to start. Add a very thin line of AIO around pad, about 1/2 out. Work it in well. Do half the hood, or a door, ec. Wipe off with a clean MF. Then single spritz of EO W&S and the same dribble of AIO and do the next body panel.



Don't worry about ouside rubber or plastic - no white smears will be form.
 
When I using a PC to apply AIO I do the same as Gonzo.



I find I can apply and remove AIO faster by hand than I can by PC and the results are just as good. I use less product by hand to.
 
AIO will work in pretty well if you give it some time. The more you work it (allow it to buff out), the less wiping you will have and the better the resulting finish (durability and gloss).



Many people have commented the AIO is a polish/cleaner only and does not protect. This is not true. AIO is a great sealant, however, it is often applied incorrectly. The WOWO method does not really give AIO time to bond, so most of the sealant gets wiped away.



When you use AIO by PC, allowing the AIO to buff off allows the cleaners to get their job done, the fine polish to remove light swirls and fine marring, and burnishes the sealant to the paint finish for a longer-lasting seal.



If you over apply AIO, it may start to cake up on the pad or even on the finish. Simply wipe the pad off with a cotton towel.



Priming the pad is okay, but don't over do it.



If you practice, you can lay out a 6" to 12" bead of AIO on the paint finish and run your pad up to it slowly with the leading edge lifted to pull in the AIO. With practice you will learn how to do it without splatter. The result will be better product distribution on the pad.



db
 
I like using AIO by PC, just prefer the physical motions over those involved with hand application.



Once you start doing it, I think you'll find it's really easy and sorta intuitively obvious. Perhaps one reason why there aren't too many responses to the "how do I?" is because it's almost a no-brainer so nobody's really thought it out too well.



Work with a moist pad (I just use water). Don't use too much. Don't work it too long/let it get dry but work it long enough to clean the panel. Wipe it off with a soft MF. Less of a how-to than what Gonzo posted but I never really think about it much :o
 
I like to use AIO by hand only if the car's paint is well-maintained and in good shape. Hand application is faster in this case because I'm not really using it to take off too much from the surface but just to give me a slick base coat for an LSP. If you are using AIO to take advantage of its cleaning properties on a less than perfect surface, then application by PC is better. PC application always gets me better results. PC-applied AIO seems to me just a tad harder to remove than hand-applied AIO.



I've used AIO either with EO as a primer or with no primer at all. I prefer a very small amount of primer.



I put (3) 1 inch lines of AIO on a white pad about 3/4" from the pad edge and do a panel at a time. Do your headlight covers, taillights and glass while you're at it.
 
When you use AIO by PC, allowing the AIO to buff off allows the cleaners to get their job done, the fine polish to remove light swirls and fine marring, and burnishes the sealant to the paint finish for a longer-lasting seal.
Click to expand...



What David said. :) I work it in with a PC and then use a Sonus detailing MF to buff off the rest. I prefer going straight to a carnauba...I don't like SG.



I use a blue or grey LC finishing pad which works very well. A good claying really helps prep the surface.
 
DavidB said:
AIO is a great sealant, however, it is often applied incorrectly. The WOWO method does not really give AIO time to bond, so most of the sealant gets wiped away.

db
Click to expand...



Does this apply to SG also? Many people here use WOWO with SG. I like letting it sit for an hour or two before I remove it.



As for AIO I work it in and buff off right away. I'm not to worried about it bonding since I don't use AIO for it's protection and I apply a LSP over it anyway.
 
Ok so if I was gonna let AIO bond, I put it on with PC and a blue pad, and then just let it sit, and then when I am done, can I put a buffing wrap over the pad and use the PC to buff it all off? Would this be a good idea or by hand to remove it?
 
thedarksyde- I use speed 4 or so. Sometimes slower depending on what I'm working with. Start around 3 and speed it up a bit if you feel like it.



If you want to buff it off with a MF bonnet on the PC, put the bonnet over a fresh (clean) pad. I wouldn't take it off with a terry bonnet as it might mar the finish.



Oh, and while some will do it, I would't put AIO on the windshield. Side/rear glass is fine though.
 
When I use AIO by PC, remember to let it buff until real thin. Because if there are quite a lot of AIO left on a spot, sometimes its really hard to buff out. I do not know if this is cause by the heat produced when using the PC. I use a White Pad when i use AIO.
 
thedarksyde , I would agree 100% with X-Trail, when it comes to AIO and using a white polishing pad " thin is in ". as far as speed I would say that Accumulator is right on IMO # 4 speed seems to work out very nice. good luck and enjoy the AIO it does a heck of a job!
 
I dont know about the blue pad but, I use a white pad when I want to clean and polish the paint, and a grey pad when I want to enhance the gloss of the paint, like spit shining.



Cant wait till spring.
 
Once the pad is primed with Eagle One WW&S, you will find that as you go, the pad will progressively get saturated with the AIO and there would be less need for spritzing it with EO.



AIO on glass, taillights, and non-rubber exterior trim (this I just tried, a tip from this forum). You can use AIO on just about anything non-porous.
 
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