Aftermarket paint job not as good as factory??

T

technomafia

New member
just got the hood and bumper repainted. paint job itself is great. but no matter how hard i try i just cant avoid the little rocks and what not that chip the paint. im noticing though that the chips are much bigger and take the top coat of paint right off. It just seems to me the typical rocks and pebbles are chipping it way to easliy. It hasnt even been a full month yet and i have 20 chips scattered throughout the bumper already. my touch up paint helps hide it but is this normal for any kind of aftermarket paint job??? I spent almost $1000 and i havent even hit winter yet



UPDATE PICS: 8.21.07



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this last one was a big chip. i already filled it in with touch up paint but you can see how deep they are

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Nothing is more durable than a factory paint job! You're in for alot more problems on your bumper cover. I'd suggest going back to the shop to show them and see what they say. Rock chips are usually not covered under the paint manufacture's warranty, but something could be defectively done?
 
David Fermani said:
Nothing is more durable than a factory paint job! You're in for alot more problems on your bumper cover. I'd suggest going back to the shop to show them and see what they say. Rock chips are usually not covered under the paint manufacture's warranty, but something could be defectively done?
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i brought it back to show him. he basically said that will happen because theres alot of product on there. meaning the factory paint plus his repainted job. and that actually more paint on a car is bad. people tend to think more is better but with painting a car the less is better. so he suggested this spray in can stuff that acts like a shield. but it will give the paint a ripple effect. its safe to wax over and all but i dont know if i want my bumper having that ripple effect look to it. Anyone ever herd of that stuff by the way?
 
The only thing I've seen like close to this is gravel guard and it's usually painted on the lowest most part of your rocker panels. I couldn't imagine using this on a bumper? In a way (I don't know your body guy), it sounds like he's trying to pass the blame for your severe chipping. I'd like to see this problem be avoided on a new raw bumper that was repainted. I'd be willing to bet the same thing would happen. I wonder what he'd say then?
 
David Fermani said:
The only thing I've seen like close to this is gravel guard and it's usually painted on the lowest most part of your rocker panels. I couldn't imagine using this on a bumper? In a way (I don't know your body guy), it sounds like he's trying to pass the blame for your severe chipping. I'd like to see this problem be avoided on a new raw bumper that was repainted. I'd be willing to bet the same thing would happen. I wonder what he'd say then?
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yea basically i have a lower colormatched front valance he would put that stuff on, as well as my sideskirts. not the whole bumper i dont think. i could understand what hes saying about there being to much product on the parts he repainted. but the lower valance i personally sanded all the previous color off. took it right down to the plastic and that chips the same as the rest.



so i mean what are you saying?? you say first that nothing beats a solid factory paint job. but now your kinda saying that the work done may be to blame???
 
With how you're describing the chipping of the front end, it really seems like it's excessive (unless you're a major tailgater). The bumpers I've seen repainted right usually hold up much better than that and when they do chip, the size is much smaller than what you're saying. Too much paint can be bad, but there's still the fatory paint under the new paint on 1 panel right? Is just the new finish chipping or are these chips all the way down to the primer/metal on the panel with OEM base? When most of the chips are too large, it's a sign of poor prep, not because there's a partial OEM finish.
 
David Fermani said:
With how you're describing the chipping of the front end, it really seems like it's excessive (unless you're a major tailgater). The bumpers I've seen repainted right usually hold up much better than that and when they do chip, the size is much smaller than what you're saying. Too much paint can be bad, but there's still the fatory paint under the new paint on 1 panel right? Is just the new finish chipping or are these chips all the way down to the primer/metal on the panel with OEM base? When most of the chips are too large, it's a sign of poor prep, not because there's a partial OEM finish.
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yes theres still factory paint under the bumper. which when it chips the top layer of paint comes off exposing white underneath. same thing with the lower valance i sanded down to the plastic, had them paint and put on. when it chips white is showing through, i guess thats the primer???



Im also going to another respectable body shop to get a second opinion on this friday.
 
It sounds as if the painter applied way too thick a coat(s) of paint. Significant stone chipping is usually an indication of too much paint, heavily applied. :mad:
 
My paint was done in 03 and paid by the former owner. Very nice job, done by a shop that was excited to do a Corvette. The car has been driven about 12 - 15k miles since the paint job and is stored inside and not driven in the elements.



All I have are a minor rock chip on the driver's side mirror and a small one you can't see unless you look in the recess between the license filler piece and the rest of the front bumper. The rock chips were both obtained by me on a trip through Chicago construction. The stock paint was somewhat faded in 03, and had a few little rock chips. I don't know how it's stock job held up(only wore GM paint for 40k miles), but this one seems to be holding it's own.



My mom had a Chevy Malibu that was in a hard rear end accident, it's front bumper seemed to scratch and chip easily. It had a few very low rock chips over the remaining 1.5 years of the lease. More than it obtained in the first 1.5. My mom drove only paved roads at reasonable speeds.



YMMV, but these are my personal experiences.
 
[shrug]..most aftermarket paint will chip more readily than most factory paint...it's something I just live with and is one more reason why I'd much rather have factory paint (even if it's in imperfect condition) than a repaint.



I don't think David Fermani is really speaking out of both sides of his mouth on this one...yeah the repaint will be inferior in this regard, but the issue is *how* inferior. The last time they reshot my wife's bumper cover it seemed a bit more chip-prone than *my* repainted bumper cover (identical part/paint/painter) but mine isn't as durable as factory paint either..her job just didn't turn out as good in a few ways and that was one of them. It's a question of "is it reasonable to want better?" vs. accepting it as within normal parameters.



Oh, and I sure wouldn't want gravel-guard on *my* front bumper cover :think:
 
There are a number of catalysts, hardeners, inhibitors, flex agents and such that go into OEM automotive paints and refinishing paints , which use the same formulations as the OEM paint.



The adavantge of OEM pain t is that trhe bodies are baked at 400 degrees plus to dry all of the above agents before any of the plastics are installed.



Due to the number of plastics used in today's cars, spray/bake booths are set at 140 degrees max, if I recall correctly from the days I worked part time detailing at Foreign Motors West's auto body shop.



I have seen repaints that are beter than the original factory job... and some that make you want to throw up in disgust!
 
Paint baked at higher temp probably forms stronger molecular bonds. They damage more easily, but can also be corrected more easily.
 
BMW335i said:
Paint baked at higher temp probably forms stronger molecular bonds. They damage more easily, but can also be corrected more easily.
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I agree with your 1st sentence, but don't with your 2nd one. If you are referring to factory baked paint, I would say that that's what makes it stronger and more durable in the 1st place. That's why nothings's stronger and lasts longer than the factory. As fas a correctability, I find repaints(alot/most of them) more correctable due to their initial softness. On the other hand, I find the late 90's/early 2000's Mercedes the most correctable finishes that are clearcoated.
 
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