Meguiars has a whole line of products. It would depend on application methoid and product choosen. A person with a rotary and skill with Meguiars #9 will probably do better than a average joe with a towel as an applicator and and 3M SMR.
Well in anycase, 3M polishes are generally better than Meguiar's when used by hand. The 3M would actually remove more swirls than cover them up, like meguiars when used by hand.
i have been trying to get the perfect finish on the 2000 jet black bimmer that you experts get with a rotary and sip with no success. i finally purchased some m105 and succeeded in getting the paint mar free. the only problem now is that i can get it mar free but when i try to wipe the polish off the scratches return. now i have the green mf and white polishing cloth from pac and i wash them like you supposed to and just figured out that maybe the reason i haven't gotten the paint perfect are the towels and not the process. am i missing something here.... suggestions anyone... my wife says i'm obsessed, but i just want perfect paint.
i always thought the paint on bmw were usually very hard. like i said i had a hard time getting it 100% corrected. but tonight i polished it, looked at it closely with the halogen, it was fine, then wiped it and inspected closely again and the scratches were back. so its obviously the cloths. i have some new white polishing cloths from pac i will try. i also have the green fluffy mf from AG but they leave a lotta lint behind. i'll check out the chemical guys... thanks bill
It's hard to believe that one or two swipes with a microfiber towel can scratch the paint, but it's true.
I'm no expert on BMW's, but I'm pretty sure the black on the late 90's/early 2000's is different from the other colors. I've done a '97 and a '99, both black and they were extremely soft.
Gee, old age is setting in, but I remember something about 2 different shades of black on Beemers, one was the standard hard as nails, the other was stupid soft, worse than Honda's. I can't remember what the names were though!
i have the jet black paint and it must be the stupid soft one cuz if i simply wipe my finger on it after i smooth it out, it will mar it. thats why i'm having a hard time getting it completely mar free. the polishing cloths and waxing sponges are leaving light scratches. i know they're light cuz i can redo with a black pad and final polish2 and it smoothes it right back out... crazy
well mike i use menzerna top inspection before and after compounding, then i use either top inspection or a alch/water wipe after my power finish application, then an alch/water wipe before final polish 2. now i can see its clear and mar free before i take off the fip, but after wioe down i see light scratches. i can redo the fip and clear em up, but when i wipe down the scratches reappear. i/m washing my m/f in hot water and doing a second rinse with vinegar then drying with no heat. i think i have paint thats so soft i need to be extra extra careful. you have anything else i could try?