advice on spoiler area

G

glen e

Retired Geezer
Just added this spoiler to my new car and there is marked diff between the gloss of the trunk (sheetmetal) and the plastic spoiler. I am a veteran detailer so I understand to get a real match, the answer is to re-spray the spoiler with more clear and polish and buff. I have done that before.

But looking for a short term "cheat" to get max gloss now until I can re-clear it later in 2013...any and all advice appreciated. Right now I only have access to A GG6...no rotary...

thanks
spoiler.jpg
 
Have you tried a fine polish to see if you can get more clarity, which is what you want to get more gloss, right ?

Production shops that paint these are not going to go the extra steps a good Detailer will go..

If this was in my shop, I would chuck up a Lake Country Hydro-Shred Cyan or Tangerine on my Makita and add some Menzerna PO106FA and see what happens.

Good luck with this!
Dan F
 
tried jeweling with mens 4500....that added a little - don't think I'm working with much here....
 
Mernzerna 4500 is the old PO85RD which has a cut of 1 and a gloss of 5. What pad and machine combo are you using ?

I only use this for jeweling or to try to get the last bit of gloss out of a finish that is already very glossy.

You might need to think about using something a little stronger. The people that painted that part used a pretty aggressive compound to smooth it out and then they were done.
I am sure that it looked a lot better gloss wise, before they compounded it.

When you look very closely at the paint in very good light, does it look really clear down to the metallic?

If not, then you need to work on it a little longer with something that has more cut. The product I suggested has a cut of 2.5 I believe, and a gloss of 5 and there are other Menzerna compounds that have more cut than this.

Do you have any Optimum Hyper Polish? This always cuts great, leaves a very glossy finish, and no dusting.

You can get it to look like the rest of the vehicle or pretty darn close.

Dan F
 
Dan - thanks - looking close, there is quite of bit of fine orange peel....

I have the following on hand:

ultimate compound
Ultimate polish
XMT light swirl remover
3M Finishing Material (Finessit II)
Duragloss 501

would any of these work?

and remember the only tool I have is a GG6 - with LC pads of orange, green, grey and blue....
 
Glen -
If it were me, I would put the Orange pad on and use the Meguiars Ultimate Compound.

I would also spray some pad conditioner on the pad to keep it more moist and let it dry carefully as I went over the paint on the highest speed.
I would work the compound until it was broken down, and stop and take a look at the area.

I would be trying to determine if the paint is soft, medium, or hard and adjust my technique accordingly.

If I saw improvement, I might do it again, and then finish with the next finer pad, which is going to be your green, and try the Meguiars Ultimate Polish, and see if I am refining the gloss now.

If it turned out way better by now, it would always be good to go over it the last time with that Menzerna SP4500 to really give it that last bit of clarity.

Watch your sharp edges - there is never going to be much material on them. You will be fine !

Dan F
 
thanks- will report back tomorrow....as soon as I saw my UC on the shelf I thought that was the one I would use....
 
Dan -

Just worked on it for 30 min....UC, then UP, then 4500 with orange and black....

I can get it "better" with the UC - and even the 501 - and now it is close... but it needs a rotary and wool I think - seeing if I can borrow one....
E7D27DD8-C91D-47F9-BEA5-D1E8D6F29600-6691-00000EF683E27DE5.jpg
 
Simple.....the SKILLED rotary use is your only help. As I have said throughout this forum. If you cant polish and correct with a rotary, your accepting a second rate job. Its all about glassing out the two surfaces. No matter how you arrive at that, and whatever combination you use to obtain an optically perfect glass surface where both panels are as smooth bright and again optically correct. Start with a wool pad and work from there. Your not a detailer UNLESS you can be proficient with the rotary. Make the rotary your friend and take the dull surface down as needed. Its like riding a bike after the first ten years.
 
Paintxpert said:
Simple.....the SKILLED rotary use is your only help. As I have said throughout this forum. If you cant polish and correct with a rotary, your accepting a second rate job. Its all about glassing out the two surfaces. No matter how you arrive at that, and whatever combination you use to obtain an optically perfect glass surface where both panels are as smooth bright and again optically correct. Start with a wool pad and work from there. Your not a detailer UNLESS you can be proficient with the rotary. Make the rotary your friend and take the dull surface down as needed. Its like riding a bike after the first ten years.
Click to expand...

did you not read my post? - I said I needed a rotary.......I've owned two flex rotaries, just not now....

come down off the pulpit, sir.....
 
Paintxpert -

Let's see, you only have 28 posts since joining in May, 2010 - Hmmm....

If you had taken the time to read this thread, and perhaps done a little research, you would have known that Glen e has skills, but doesn't have access to everything at the moment and only wanted to improve what he could with what he has available.

I use Rotary Power every day and have been since the days of Lacquer, Enamel, Acrylic Lacquer, Acrylic Enamel, and on to now.

Yeah, we all know about wool, etc., and it certainly has its place, and the newer foam/wool blends of a few years ago are pretty remarkable as well.

I am positive that Glen e can do anything he wants to do with that spoiler and as it is now it looks way, way, better than when he started.

So back off, bucky ! :)

Dan F
 
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