ABC Decontamin - Safe on Rubber
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David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
Yup, it's safe. Just keep it wet and make sure everything gets neutralized.
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
I don't like to clay during either one for fear of damaging my clay. Accumulator does it during, but I can't remember with which step?
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
Not to speak for Accumulator, but he does it during the acid (B) step.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Yep, I clay while the acid/"B" is dwelling. (And if Setec Astronomy speaks for me, it's a pretty good bet he's got it right 
)
And David Fermani is right about it wrecking whatever clay you use, so don't just grab a whole new bar for this- tear off some smallish pieces and pitch/replace them when the "B" does its number on 'em.
I bet that claying during the "A" step would dissolve the clay into a goopy mess in a heartbeat, that's something I sure don't want to try. Ever have clay contact a solvent/tar remover? It makes a pretty awful mess and I bet the "A" would do something similar.
The "A" probably isn't the *greatest* thing to have contact rubber [insert typical dire-Dawn-warning-type concern, which I don't worry about] but it's sure never hurt any rubber/plastic/whatever for me.
)And David Fermani is right about it wrecking whatever clay you use, so don't just grab a whole new bar for this- tear off some smallish pieces and pitch/replace them when the "B" does its number on 'em.
I bet that claying during the "A" step would dissolve the clay into a goopy mess in a heartbeat, that's something I sure don't want to try. Ever have clay contact a solvent/tar remover? It makes a pretty awful mess and I bet the "A" would do something similar.
The "A" probably isn't the *greatest* thing to have contact rubber [insert typical dire-Dawn-warning-type concern, which I don't worry about] but it's sure never hurt any rubber/plastic/whatever for me.
jimmybuffit
That'll buff right out!
Ketch/Grumpy has told usthat the ABC process should eliminate the need for claying.
I don't always find that to be the case, so we clay during the "C" stage.
Jim
I don't always find that to be the case, so we clay during the "C" stage.
Jim
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
Anyone ever try Mark-V's Fallout Powder? Appears to be a 1 step process.
Here's the tech sheet on it:
Fallout Powder
Description and Uses:
The best powdered fallout remover available. Seven ingredients (four acids and three surfactants) are blended together to give a broad spectrum of cleaning ability.
Use Fallout Powder to remove industrial fallout, rail dust, heavy road film, bird and insect deposits and more from autos, trucks, boats and painted structures. Fallout Powder will strip away layers of baked on grime in minutes, leaving the surface properly prepared for polishing.
Advantages:
• Removes all of the fallout, even the part embedded in the paint.
• Mixes easily even in cold, hard water.
• Used by BMW, American Honda and Acura.
• Rinses easily and completely.
• Not necessary to wash vehicle with soap and water after use.
• Broad spectrum cleaners clean more than just rail dust.
• Very concentrated and economical.
Special Tips and Precautions:
• Fallout removal should be the first step in any complete detail, as it properly prepares the surface for polymer bonding.
• Dwell time is critical. The larger the particle size of the rail dust, the longer Fallout Powder must remain on the painted surface. Usually 10-20 minutes.
• Do not mix with other products.
• Make sure customers are equipped with gloves, boots and rubber aprons.
• This product will make hands severely dry. Be sure to inform customer to wear gloves.
• Do not allow to dry. Water must be present for Fallout Powder to work properly.
Here's the tech sheet on it:
Fallout Powder
Description and Uses:
The best powdered fallout remover available. Seven ingredients (four acids and three surfactants) are blended together to give a broad spectrum of cleaning ability.
Use Fallout Powder to remove industrial fallout, rail dust, heavy road film, bird and insect deposits and more from autos, trucks, boats and painted structures. Fallout Powder will strip away layers of baked on grime in minutes, leaving the surface properly prepared for polishing.
Advantages:
• Removes all of the fallout, even the part embedded in the paint.
• Mixes easily even in cold, hard water.
• Used by BMW, American Honda and Acura.
• Rinses easily and completely.
• Not necessary to wash vehicle with soap and water after use.
• Broad spectrum cleaners clean more than just rail dust.
• Very concentrated and economical.
Special Tips and Precautions:
• Fallout removal should be the first step in any complete detail, as it properly prepares the surface for polymer bonding.
• Dwell time is critical. The larger the particle size of the rail dust, the longer Fallout Powder must remain on the painted surface. Usually 10-20 minutes.
• Do not mix with other products.
• Make sure customers are equipped with gloves, boots and rubber aprons.
• This product will make hands severely dry. Be sure to inform customer to wear gloves.
• Do not allow to dry. Water must be present for Fallout Powder to work properly.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
superduty said:
Yeah man, that's the whole thing, keep the car protected all the time, and keep it clean, and you really won't have to worry about any contamination. Of course, that's a little eaiser said than done...."a funny thing happened on the way to always keeping my car clean and protected"...
Accumulator
Well-known member
Jimmy Buffit said:
Interesting, as he and I have discussed doing it while the "B" is dwelling and he was in agreement that it was a smart way to do. But then Ron and I have shot the [stuff] about decontamination so much we've probably discussed *everything* related to it at one time or another.
I should probably point out that this is only necessary on vehicles with pretty severe ferrous contamination. If you pay attention you can tell if it need doing...in normal cases I'd recommend doing the "B" without claying and if it's still contaminated after you rinse the "B" off, redo it and clay while the second application is dwelling.
Accumulator
Well-known member
superduty- Unfortunately all the clays I've used for this fall apart fast 
But it's still the way to go for nasty ferrous contamination IMO.
I use a lot of clay, but I tear it into smallish pieces so I don't trash the whole bar at once.
I just did a vehicle with heavy *non-ferrous* contamination (dunno what the [stuff] was) and on that one I used (Griot's) clay during the "A" step. The [stuff] was *NOT* gonna come off readily with just the "A", but the combo of "A" and clay worked great.
The "A" compromised the clay too (made it soft and soupy after a while) but not nearly as fast as the "B" did. This might be a better way to go when dealing with something other than ferrous contamination/rust blooms.
But it's still the way to go for nasty ferrous contamination IMO.I use a lot of clay, but I tear it into smallish pieces so I don't trash the whole bar at once.
I just did a vehicle with heavy *non-ferrous* contamination (dunno what the [stuff] was) and on that one I used (Griot's) clay during the "A" step. The [stuff] was *NOT* gonna come off readily with just the "A", but the combo of "A" and clay worked great.
The "A" compromised the clay too (made it soft and soupy after a while) but not nearly as fast as the "B" did. This might be a better way to go when dealing with something other than ferrous contamination/rust blooms.
Accumulator, when I worked on my F350 with the clay and ABC, I tried it during the A portion and the clay fell apart there too. I went back and saw in a thread that you recommended claying during B....so I switched to that. I wasn't really taking note if the clay lasted longer during A or B. Either way it falls apart. Regardless claying during A or B seems to make it easier to remove the fallout or rail dust.
I too have broken the clay into smaller pieces. The clay magic is a 100 gram bar and I break it into 3 pieces. So far I have done the complete prius (rail dust wasnt very bad), that took 1 bar.
I have also done the hood and one whole side of the F350. Very bad rail dust and fallout. I have used 2.5 bars on the truck so far. The truck has only been clayed once in 9 yrs. (I still have to polish, then Klasse twins, then 476S the side of the truck - I have only completed the hood so far - man this stuff is time consuming!)
Both vehicles are white so they really show the fallout and rust.
Thanks again for all your advice Accumulator.
I too have broken the clay into smaller pieces. The clay magic is a 100 gram bar and I break it into 3 pieces. So far I have done the complete prius (rail dust wasnt very bad), that took 1 bar.
I have also done the hood and one whole side of the F350. Very bad rail dust and fallout. I have used 2.5 bars on the truck so far. The truck has only been clayed once in 9 yrs. (I still have to polish, then Klasse twins, then 476S the side of the truck - I have only completed the hood so far - man this stuff is time consuming!)
Both vehicles are white so they really show the fallout and rust.
Thanks again for all your advice Accumulator.
Accumulator
Well-known member
superduty- That's interesting, how the "A" killed the ClayMagic so fast :think: Didn't seem to mess up the Griot's/Mother's that quickly, so I guess some clays are more sensitive to such stuff than others.
Between the "A" and the "B", I'd clay during whichever process seems to need it (or even both I suppose, in really bad cases).
The stuff I was dealing with this weekend didn't seem like ferrous contamination (I could scrub it off with just "A"), so I didn't even bother using the "B". I'd debated using FK1119 instead of "A", but the vehicle had company graphics on it and I didn't want to find out how they'd respond to the FK stuff (which took off lane-line paint the last time I used it!). I sorta suspect that FK1119 will *really* kill clay fast.
Between the "A" and the "B", I'd clay during whichever process seems to need it (or even both I suppose, in really bad cases).
The stuff I was dealing with this weekend didn't seem like ferrous contamination (I could scrub it off with just "A"), so I didn't even bother using the "B". I'd debated using FK1119 instead of "A", but the vehicle had company graphics on it and I didn't want to find out how they'd respond to the FK stuff (which took off lane-line paint the last time I used it!). I sorta suspect that FK1119 will *really* kill clay fast.