A week's worth of White Taurus.

tubafeak

tubafeak

Weight is the enemy.
I just started out on the largest scale detail to date on my personal vehicle, a 1995 Ford Taurus, white, Covered in swirls, and ready for some pampering. I don't have anypics right now (no befores) but I'll be taking pics after each day of detailing to document it. I'm figuring today and tommorrow to wash, clay, polish, and apply my first coat of UPP. My plan is as follows:

Wash w/ NXT
Clay w/ Pinnacle polyclay
Pro Polish w/ Mak and LC White Polishing pad @1500 rpm
SSR 2.5 w/ Mak and LC Orange Light Cuting pad @ 1500-1800 rpm
SSR 1 w/ Mak or PC and LC black Finishing pad @ 1200 rpm or 4-4.5
UPPx3 w/ PC and LC black Finishing pad @ 3-4
Carnauba (I have #16, #26, Blue Natty's, Weird Japanese Wax of unknown brand)

Wish me luck everyone.
 
Good luck and don't forget to post some pics! Any reason you decided on going with UPP instead of say EX-P for white?
 
It's what I have in my Garage right now. I have about 1/2 oz of EX-P left and I want to put down a lot of layers. It might take a bit longer than I had expected, the surface temps on my paint were so high today that the Polyclay started to disintgrate. Good thing I'm polishing with poorboys. I may jsut skip claying this time around, it didn't seem like I was doing anything today and I clayed less than 1 month ago. I wish I had a garage that could be detailed in, the CRX barely fits and it's possibly the smallest car on the road. I'll update you guys, it looks like I'll be doing my work in the morning.
 
tubafeak said:
I just started out on the largest scale detail to date on my personal vehicle, a 1995 Ford Taurus, white, Covered in swirls, and ready for some pampering. I don't have anypics right now (no befores) but I'll be taking pics after each day of detailing to document it. I'm figuring today and tommorrow to wash, clay, polish, and apply my first coat of UPP. My plan is as follows:

Wash w/ NXT
Clay w/ Pinnacle polyclay
Pro Polish w/ Mak and LC White Polishing pad @1500 rpm
SSR 2.5 w/ Mak and LC Orange Light Cuting pad @ 1500-1800 rpm
SSR 1 w/ Mak or PC and LC black Finishing pad @ 1200 rpm or 4-4.5
UPPx3 w/ PC and LC black Finishing pad @ 3-4
Carnauba (I have #16, #26, Blue Natty's, Weird Japanese Wax of unknown brand)

Wish me luck everyone.
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I am wondering out of curiousity why are you going to spend a week buffing the paint on your 1995 taurus and possibly doing the interior.If your car has swirls take a black or white finishing pad with a medium buffing compound and buff @1500 rpm or on a Milwaukee buffer or dewalt its 2-4 and apply a even pressure and keep the pad flat on the surface.Then Rinse your pad and use a 3M 5136 dark polishing glaze dark to make your paint rich and full of life.ON doing this 2nd pass slow your buffer down to about 900 rpms or 1-2 and just slow speed it.Then Hand Glaze.But if you really want it to pop when you are slow speed polishing spritz some water on the paint surface and continue to buff and watch your paint really glow.then Hand Glaze to make look wet. As far as the interior goes unbolt the seats and carpet and center console if it has one and remove it from the car.All the way down to the metal surface in your car. take the backing off the carpet and place somewhere it wont get wet and spray a good deodorizing scent on it and let air.take the carpet and spray some degreaser on it and work in using a stiff bristle bruff then wet carpet with water just enough to make suds the work brush again ,then rinse then wet/dry vacuum the excess water off and hang up to continue to drip dry after it has completely dried put the carpet pad back in the car then replace the carpet ( can apply carpet glue if you want but you dont have too because all the seats bolts and everything else will hold the carpet in place. Can do the with door panels just make sure the battery cable are disconnected.So there wont be any juice flowing to the door switches are they are cleaned take an air nozzle to blow dry the switches and remove excess water from the door.Also can do the same with the seats.depending on temp make take a little longer to get dry but doable in about 3-4 hours.any further Question feel free to email me @[email protected]
 
I think he may just be taking his time on it. That and he is going to apply layer after layer of UPP.
 
Sounds good to me tuba. You can't beat upp on slickness. I've tried EX-P, EX, UPP, and KSG. The KSG was pretty slick to tell the truth, and was surprised at the slickness it gave, but in the end UPP wins! I plan on trying other sealants before I make that final judgement but I think my opinions now will be the same then.
 
The week was mostly because I've got a week with nothing to do and I'm not going to rush anything. I'll be using the Poorboy's line of polishes (as you might have noticed from my first post) so the heat shouldn't be so much of a problem, but it will still take more time than usual. A lot of the week will just be spent layering UPP and later #16. I've recently done the interior pretty heavily so it'll just be a quick inside job for now.
 
Sorry for the delay all, I've been inside trying to figure out the solution to my surface temp. problems. I think I've figured it out so I'll do the detail this weekend/into the next week. I may have another car to post on as well because my sis and father are going to band camp next week. I should have tons of time, unlike this week.
 
tubafeak said:
Sorry for the delay all, I've been inside trying to figure out the solution to my surface temp. problems. I think I've figured it out so I'll do the detail this weekend/into the next week. I may have another car to post on as well because my sis and father are going to band camp next week. I should have tons of time, unlike this week.
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This one time...

I am sure each of the car will look great when you are done.

Eric
 
Bence said:
What kind of Japanese wax do you use? Is it unknown just for us or even for you?
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I'm not 100% sure, it's the stuff in the red tin that you can get from Autobacs in California. I was there on vacation and I thought I might as well get something that I couldn't get anywhere else. I can't read japanese so I'm not sure of the name of it. I'll post a pic of the tin along with the pics of my car.
PS: The company name seems to be "soft99"
 
Just got done with the Polishing and first UPP layer, no pics yet as the camera went to Band Camp with my sister. I actually only had to use Optimum Polish with an LC light cutting tufted pad (thank you very much Scott, the pads are great) and it cleared up the light oxidation I had and left the surface glassy, glossy, and marring free. I had the Mak at 1500 or so (left on 3) the whole time and varied my pressure. I made passes pressing down firmly, gently, not much, not at all, and lifting up to bring out the gloss. I think this will become my process for using Optimum Polish as it gave me great results and a squeaky clean (literally) surface that UPP bonded to very firmly. I had mixed success with the car, there are lots of deeper scratches that I lessened and pinhole-type rock chips that you need a loupe to see but are quite deep that I can't get out right now. I'm going to want to get my hands on some Optimum compound to really work on the paint. I do know in reality that I won't be able to fix many of the problems still there without a repaint. I'll try to show you guys in the photos what I mean.

I'm quite satisfied with my work, the new products I used were great, and I feel a lot more comfortable with a rotary then I did before.
 
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